Remington 700 action problem

[Dans40X]

If you dont want a new action, a threaded plug can be soldered in and a new hole drilled and tapped.

Soldered?!?!

Plug & Peen if heat is not desired.

Install a threaded plug & TIG weld @ o/diameter.
Blend.
Pick up the 6.5" hole spacing in a mill & drill & tap your new "on location" 1/4"-28tpi action screw hole.

 

[expiper]

tig welding prolly puts in less heat than silver soldering ,,,,and the tang area is not as critical on "hardness" (R-C scale--35-45) as the bbl tennon area of the front reciever ring ,,,Roger

 

[clowdis]

The Remington repair center you talked to is correct, they can only send the action to Remington for replacement. It's not a couple of weeks turnaround either, about 6-8 weeks. The repair centers are not allowed to repair this under warranty. As information, they aren't allowed to replace bolts in 700 actions either. The Wal-mart 783's etc. OK but not 700's.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Soldered?!?!

Plug & Peen if heat is not desired.

Install a threaded plug & TIG weld @ o/diameter.
Blend.
Pick up the 6.5" hole spacing in a mill & drill & tap your new "on location" 1/4"-28tpi action screw hole.

Sure, 450 degree solder like I use on bolt noses for mini16 or sakos extractor installs. Tig would be better of course. Plug and peen would not be too good after you drilled out 75% of the plug and tried to tap the new hole. Remington tang is not going though nasa inspection . Never had an issue with aluminum threads in a Panda either. Suitable repair for the job at hand.

 

[carlsbad]

Silver soldering, if done right, will never affect the metallurgical properties of steel. Welding, on the other hand, always does.

I don't recommend either in this case but I just thought I'd clear this up.

--Jerry (PE Mechanical; Physics, U of Chicago)

 

[Ggmac]

Yes I see how much it's off . My point being , a non remington made part with a remington receiver . As far as they MAY be concerned, it's within there specs . It would be ashame to spend all that money just to be handed back that receiver .

 

[Ggmac]

Just a guess , .035-.045" off

 

[JasonT]

It looks like drilling out the rear action screw hole in the stock is just the ticket. I see no reason why it would be a problem.

 

[Ggmac]

I would thin the action screw shaft first

 

[carlsbad]

I would thin the action screw shaft first

This may be a better solution than it appears. High strength fasteners have a smaller diameter shaft than nominal.

If the shaft between the threaded sections is reduced in diameter to appropriately the diameter at the root of the threads, then the stress (force/unit area) is about the same along the entire length of the fastener. In a normal bolt, because the unthreaded section of the fastener larger diameter than the effective diameter of the threaded section, the stress is intensified at the junction (they always break at the junction when in the overload condition).

In this case, we are not trying to push the limits of the material and the joint does not need an engineered fastener. However, I provided the discussion above to show that reducing the diameter, especially if the transition is smoothly contoured, would increase the strength of the fastener rather than decreasing it.

The diameter at the root of the threads for 1/4-28 is .211.

--Jerry

 

[MahtewsSB]

Well here's what I came up with. The stainless action is the problem action. I would certainly think that 0.017" does not fall within their tolerances, right? I am however concerned about sending the barreled action to them and only receiving a new "as factory" action back, minus the barrel and recoil lug. I'm starting to lean towards the new rear pillar option. Any of you gunsmiths want to chime in some more? I'm open to suggestions at this point

 

[Ggmac]

Thin the darn action screws , don't touch either the stock or receiver !
It's easy , no modifications . I bet you remington would say " it fits in our stock "

 

[clowdis]

You can thin the action bolt shank but you still can't screw it in because the threaded section is still 1/4 inch. Best recourse is to move the hole in the stock the appropriate amount and install the standard bolt. Also double check the front bolt to be sure it's in the center of the hole. It may be a little bit forward too. If it is then you can machine the recoil lug bedding area in the Manners block and move everything back a little bit.

 

[Ggmac]

You may be able to thin the screws and start them if you thin both , start the screws by a thread or two , lift the receiver away from the stock then finish tighten. I have done it this way a few times , granted it hasn't worked always but when push comes to shove , it may . It's worth a shot .
Of course no matter which way works , remember to have no contact between the screws and stock .

 

[MahtewsSB]

You can thin the action bolt shank but you still can't screw it in because the threaded section is still 1/4 inch. Best recourse is to move the hole in the stock the appropriate amount and install the standard bolt. Also double check the front bolt to be sure it's in the center of the hole. It may be a little bit forward too. If it is then you can machine the recoil lug bedding area in the Manners block and move everything back a little bit.

I examined the front hole upon discovering the rear wouldn't work because I thought that maybe the chassis was off and I could mill it out to slide the action to the right spot (which I think is what you were suggesting also), turns out the front action hole lines up perfectly with the stock and the problem is solely on the rear.

 

[Toby Bradshaw]

Kelbly Atlas Tactical: about $1K.
A company -- Kelbly's -- that stands behind its work (which is almost always flawless anyhow): Priceless.

Same for Borden, Stiller, BAT, ...

 

[carlsbad]

Not gonna name names but don't assume "custom" actions all stand behind their work. I repaired a side bolt release recently from one of them. They told the owner he was just cycling the bolt too aggressively. The problem was clearly that the action wasn't milled correctly.

--Jerry

 

[Dans40X]

Silver soldering, if done right, will never affect the metallurgical properties of steel. Welding, on the other hand, always does.
--Jerry (PE Mechanical; Physics, U of Chicago)

Are there any variables to your statements?
Recommended processes that do &/or do not affect properties??

Maybe you should add Theoretical Physicist to your signature.

Offended,go cry to the boss.........again!

 

['Freak]

Bottom metal will be as unhappy as is the stock

 

[Preacher]

Your best bet is to redo the stock and add a pillar...
DO NOT put any strain on the screws...