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Remage build way off on windage

My money is on the recoil lug or the barrel nut.

I bought one of the first Savage F-Class rifles in 6mmBR. Newbies and kids shot the barrel out over a couple years. Put a new barrel on from Northland and put it back together. Same issue as described above, and barrel laid to side of stock. 3' to left at 100, out of windage. Rotated barrel 90, 180, 270* all with same result. Ran back to Northland as they were 20 minutes away and got a new barrel lug and nut. Tried lug first, no change, New barrel nut solved the problem. Barrel laid true in stock and shoots well to this day. We looked at original barrel, rolled it across a flat table and it was bent in the middle. Savage had bent the barrel while assembled to the action to make it work. From that moment on, I vowed to never own another. All because they wouldn't disassemble and replace a $3 barrel nut that was out of square. Their cost was probably $.25. I emailed the factory and got no response.... Sorry to vent!

Scott
 
I will place my bet on the rail being pulled slightly to one side by the screws. It will be the rear screw pulling the rail to one side. the top of the action is not round and is slightly skewif.
 
I will place my bet on the rail being pulled slightly to one side by the screws. It will be the rear screw pulling the rail to one side. the top of the action is not round and is slightly skewif.
I'm using 2 piece dual dovetail bases. There is no rail.
 
Fatelvis been here done this and the problem was always the rear base adj. screws being tightened too much to one side. Bore site like mentioned above ( through barrel) and with out disturbing the gun retighten the windage screws on the base.
 
Fatelvis been here done this and the problem was always the rear base adj. screws being tightened too much to one side. Bore site like mentioned above ( through barrel) and with out disturbing the gun retighten the windage screws on the base.
RJ, I wish that were the situation, unfortunately I am using dual dovetail bases, that have no windage adjustment.
 
The 223 laser might be able to tell you how straight the bore is....put a piece of plastic wrap over the muzzle and look at the image (from the side - not directly at the laser) to see if it seems centered. Rotate the laser at 90 degree increments to verify.
I'll be interested in how it works out.
 
The 223 laser might be able to tell you how straight the bore is....put a piece of plastic wrap over the muzzle and look at the image (from the side - not directly at the laser) to see if it seems centered. Rotate the laser at 90 degree increments to verify.
I'll be interested in how it works out.

It doesn't matter the same thing can happen with the bases the rear one may be pulled off centre by the screws it may require bedding to even up the action.
 
Why not try a windage adjustable mount? I have seen a few remingtons with skewed scope mount screw holes. There has to be a way to do it.
 
A couple of more thoughts. Fitting a Remage barrel is not always as simple as a Savage because of the bolt front/counterbore interface. Make sure the bolt front is not contacting the front or sides of the counterbore. It should close freely without a round in the chamber. With the firing pin down, there should be a little forward and aft movement of the bolt without much effort exerted. A little Dykem or even magic marker can also be used to make sure the front and sides of the bolt are free of the counterbore. The other thing to check for is making sure the front action screw when tightened is NOT touching the bottom of the barrel. Had a rifle that shot not bigger than a 3/8" group & sighted it in before a PD hunt, Decided to snug up my action screws before going. 1st shot on a dog, my spotter thought I was shooting at a different one. Next 2 shots were several feet off. Put it up till got home. After chasing several other possibilities without results, noticed the bottom bolt lug had a small scrape on it. Front action screw was making light contact. Ground the screw off a little and accuracy restored. Would never have thought it could make that much difference.
 
Take the bases off and run a string. I use mono fishing line. Run it as true as you can through the center of the 4 mounting holes to the muzzle and you will be able to see how far it is off.
 
Also could be the original bore was off thus the Signatures. Set it with zero insets and see where it is by bore sighting.
 
If I had this problem, the first thing I would do:
  1. Buy an inexpensive set of mounts and rings (maybe Weaver).
  2. Make sure the scope windage is centered.
  3. Mount the scope, bore sight and shoot it.
My money would be on the mounts or "mounting" is the problem. All of us are often guilty of not looking for the simplist causes for a problem. Could the barrel be bent, bored off center, recoil lug not parralel ... yes, but not likely.
 
If I had this problem, the first thing I would do:
  1. Buy an inexpensive set of mounts and rings (maybe Weaver).
  2. Make sure the scope windage is centered.
  3. Mount the scope, bore sight and shoot it.
My money would be on the mounts or "mounting" is the problem. All of us are often guilty of not looking for the simplist causes for a problem. Could the barrel be bent, bored off center, recoil lug not parralel ... yes, but not likely.

According to the OP, he had no trouble zeroing rifle with factory barrel using same bases, rings (non-adj. ones) and scope......
 
OP, did you remove bases and rings when changing barrels? Of so, any chance you did not get the rings lined up truly perpendicular to the bore and inline with each other before clamping the scope in place? Dual dovetail rings can cause zeroing issues if not lined up; also puts stress on scope. I usually mount this type with a round bar of correct diameter. When the bar lies flat in the bottom of both rings, they should be aligned properly. Just some more guesses as to the source of the problem.
 

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