Rem 700 single shot question

[alphapygmy]

I'm building my first Remington 700 as an F-open gun. Single shot action, 30" 1.25 straight barrel. Would it help to machine the action for a third action screw in front of the trigger like a Savage PTA? I think I've heard the action is stiff enough for this much barrel but still curious on thoughts or experiences. Thanks

 

[DaveTooley]

no it wouldn't help

 

[6.5x47]

Can't see hurt' s anything

 

[carlsbad]

In the last match before the great COVID19 shutdown of 2020, I won the California State F-class Palma Championship using a rifle I built on that action with only 2 action screws. I did replace the front action screw with one I made myself. Pictured here:

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...e-with-a-remington-700.4001701/#post-37735924

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I have done the before and after testing of a center screw and pillar that was added in a BR rifle and re bedded accordingly. Listen to Dave.

 

[alphapygmy]

2 screws it is. Thanks...

In the last match before the great COVID19 shutdown of 2020, I won the California State F-class Palma Championship using a rifle I built on that action with only 2 action screws. I did replace the front action screw with one I made myself.

Anymore details on the front screw?

 

[Will Henry]

I like two screws ahead of the trigger group. In fact, I usually free float the tang and only fasten ahead of the trigger. I started doing this after having great success with a LV rifle I did this way in 1978 and I have mostly stayed with it. Not saying it's the best way, just that it's my preference. WH

 

[alphapygmy]

I like two screws ahead of the trigger group. In fact, I usually free float the tang and only fasten ahead of the trigger. I started doing this after having great success with a LV rifle I did this way in 1978 and I have mostly stayed with it. Not saying it's the best way, just that it's my preference. WH

That's what I was thinking but hard to argue against Tooley and Wheeler's advice...

 

[carlsbad]

2 screws it is. Thanks...



Anymore details on the front screw?

I countersunk the pillar with a flat bottom to take a standard CrMo 1/4 28 socket head capscrew. I turned the bottom of the head to be perfectly smooth and orthogonal to the axis.

 

[Fast14riot]

I'm running 3 screws in my current stock, but my next stock (in progress) will be two. I dont like the variability induced by the 3rd action screw.

 

[Will Henry]

If I didn't use the two screws ahead of the trigger, I always bedded with clearance under the middle of the receiver. Again, just my preference.
The reason I started floating the tang was because I felt the trigger cutout made the stock more flexy at that point and I thought having the tang clear would make the rifle less affected by bag positioning. In addition, when doing a glue in, I didn't have to worry about glue in the trigger pin holes and stuff like that. This was all short range BR.
Later, when I started shooting "F" class a bit and prone with a sling, I kept doing it that way just because it worked well for me.
If I am bedding the tang, I still like having that middle screw but, the truth is, the rifles would probably shoot just as well without it.
I have a dozen target rifles of various types and most are bedded with screws ahead of the trigger and the tang floated. They shoot fine but I stop short of saying that's the way to do it simply because I have seen, built, and shot too many done conventionally which shot just as well. There are few absolutes in life; even in rifle building. WH

 

[alphapygmy]

Will the 30" barrel work or would I potentially be better off cutting it to 28"?

 

[carlsbad]

32" straight profile barrel is not a problem.

 

[6fatrat]

I use these actions for my prone rifles, follow carlsbads advice for the action screws.
Steve Bair