Rem 700 misalignment

[NCFrank]

I have a little to look at here and will do so closely. Again, the input is very much appreciated.

It's not a bad shooter in its current state. The gentleman I got this rifle from was asking only $350. I didn't argue. With the right approach I believe it still has potential for good gains.

 

[NCFrank]

Dave, I tightened only the front screws of the pic rail, placed rings and bar on and it appears straight now.
I can see a little unevenness on the rear bridge to the right as you indicated. Will bed the rail.
Thank you much.

 

[Webster]

Greetings all,
Discovered this when changing from Leupold Standard base to a pic rail. Screw holes (#6 size) are misaligned with center of action. Problem is NOT with the pic rail or rings. This rifle is prebankruptcy and was told by customer support they will not repair/replace. I would have to send to an authorized full service shop or go to a local smith at my expense. I don't know if being more assertive with Remington would get me anywhere or not. Sitting in the rings is a 30mm precision ground bar showing the misalignment. From rear to muzzle the misalignment goes right to left respectively. Any input is appreciated. NCFrankView attachment 1518559

I bought a Rem 700 ADL. Couldn't sight it in. I ran out of left scope adjustment. I turned the rear scope ring 180 and it shot with normal scope adjustment. I don't remember if I turned the base and ring? I read somewhere that Rem was known to drill the scope base holes off center.

 

[L.Sherm]

I bed the rails on every 700 I own.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

It's not always the receiver that's wonky.
I was machining some Talley bases the other day. When I saw how crooked my cuts looked compared to the factory surfaces, I thought that my milling setup was at fault.
It wasn't.
The cross-slot cuts were visibly crooked.

 

[Skattergun]

Recently changed a stainless rem 700 from
6-48 to 8-40, had some taps here in the shop, started the first hole didn’t like how it felt so ordered new taps, couldn’t find any premium offerings so got the “premium” r&n ones from brownells. They felt the same, it was a slow job with multiple moments of cringing wondering it the tap was going to snap. Had it set up in the mill with tap guide. Any recommendations on taps? Thought maybe it was the stainless rem used? Was almost considering going to a 8-32 or 8-36 for better options.

Action was a long action magnum in 300rum and it had broke the rear scope mount screws couple times, guy wanted to use his two piece ring base setup instead of a one piece rail that has the recoil lug on the ejection port.

I would definitely think twice about doing this again, any insight?

 

[DaveTooley]

Moly Dee is your friend for tough to tap material.

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

excellent thread. great teaching.

 

[AlNyhus]

Recently changed a stainless rem 700 from
6-48 to 8-40, had some taps here in the shop, started the first hole didn’t like how it felt so ordered new taps, couldn’t find any premium offerings so got the “premium” r&n ones from brownells. They felt the same, it was a slow job with multiple moments of cringing wondering it the tap was going to snap. Had it set up in the mill with tap guide. Any recommendations on taps? Thought maybe it was the stainless rem used? Was almost considering going to a 8-32 or 8-36 for better options.

I would definitely think twice about doing this again, any insight?

The Sandvik Coromant fluted 8-40 taps have worked well for me. A carbide 9/64" end mill to open up the 6-48 holes, a tap guide that fits into a 1/2" collet and a moly cutting fluid. Manual tapping, of course. No professional or machinist but that's my stumble bum way of doing them. -Al

 

[6BRA]

XTR Signature Rings™ | Burris Optics

www.burrisoptics.com

As many have stated above!

 

[swd]

I just fixed that same problem a couple weeks ago. I opened the holes on the rail slightly and bedded it while bore sighting the scope. I like a decent amount of steel powder in the epoxy too.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Recently changed a stainless rem 700 from
6-48 to 8-40, had some taps here in the shop, started the first hole didn’t like how it felt so ordered new taps, couldn’t find any premium offerings so got the “premium” r&n ones from brownells. They felt the same, it was a slow job with multiple moments of cringing wondering it the tap was going to snap. Had it set up in the mill with tap guide. Any recommendations on taps? Thought maybe it was the stainless rem used? Was almost considering going to a 8-32 or 8-36 for better options.

Action was a long action magnum in 300rum and it had broke the rear scope mount screws couple times, guy wanted to use his two piece ring base setup instead of a one piece rail that has the recoil lug on the ejection port.

I would definitely think twice about doing this again, any insight?

Machinery's Handbook recommends not using a taper tap for most stainless. Each consecutive cut may be too shallow to penetrate the surface hardness left behind by the previous tooth. A plug tap is recommended, as the taper is more abrupt, and each tooth takes a heavier cut.
Hope that makes sense. If not, just read the Machinery's Handbook.