Reamers and Preboring

[jackieschmidt]

Jackie is your whole article on chambering still on bencherestdot.com? That's a great article for the guys who haven't read it. I highly recommend reading it.

It was, but the pictures won’t come up anymore, which pretty well makes the article useless.

That article centered around chambering barrels in the headstock in a lathe with a headstock that is too long to use a spider.

As a machinist, I feel this is an excellent way to chamber.

When I bought a lathe for my house, I deliberately chose one that had a longer headstock.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

My advice is to learn how machines work. If you understand how everything functions, then its very clear how and why you do certain operations. Teaching a person how to do something is one thing but understanding why is far more valuable. Get some time with the machine and learn how things work, then things will become very simple and you will know why your doing what your doing and know how to deal with problems if they arise.

 

[Greg Y]

It's beneficial to have as many ways home as possible. I had a proof in the lathe last week that had some hard spots in it. I had prebored and was well into 100% reamer contact when it got ugly. I checked the reamer, came up on the speed, wax paper...everything test was supposed to work was making me nervous. I dumped the floater and went direct off the tailstock which calmed it down....or pushed through that mess.

When you have to shift to the tailstock you can stick the indicator to the chuck and spin around the tailstock center. Be aware that some variation due to torque on the lock can occur as well.

 

[jackieschmidt]

My advice is to learn how machines work. If you understand how everything functions, then its very clear how and why you do certain operations. Teaching a person how to do something is one thing but understanding why is far more valuable. Get some time with the machine and learn how things work, then things will become very simple and you will know why your doing what your doing and know how to deal with problems if they arise.

^^^^^^^^

 

[Clark]

That’s taking the long way home..

I drill, bore, and ream in 1/2" increments to keep enough pilot engaged in the bore.

And I call a "tin foil hat", an "Aluminum Faraday shield". I have a design on the MilStar program [Air force command and control in war] that has to work on Air Force One and on submarines. My Faraday shield on that design uses mu metal with higher magnetic permeability to cancel out electro magnetic interference.

 

[powderbrake]

IMy Faraday shield on that design uses mu metal with higher magnetic permeability to cancel out electro magnetic interference.

I don't remember a reference to mu metal since my days of designing stuff for minesweepers, back in the 1960's.

 

[butchlambert]

Fellers, let's get back on topic please.

 

[swd]

I drill, bore, and ream in 1/2" increments to keep enough pilot engaged in the bore.

And I call a "tin foil hat", an "Aluminum Faraday shield". I have a design on the MilStar program [Air force command and control in war] that has to work on Air Force One and on submarines. My Faraday shield on that design uses mu metal with higher magnetic permeability to cancel out electro magnetic

I have a lot of respect for any man who has out done me on tinfoil hats! If your making any extras I’ll take 2 please! TY

 

[Edd]

I drill, then single point bore the chamber with the compound set on the same taper as the case.

Before I do this, I indicate the area where the grout will form.

I won’t get into exactly how I chamber barrels and how I set a barrel up. That is a entire different discussion.

What is grout?

 

[WSnyder]

What is grout?

Throat (probably auto correct error).

 

[jackieschmidt]

Throat (probably auto correct error).

Yeh, stupid IPad does that all the time.