Reloading questions and goofs from a novice
- Thread starter grumpygunner
- Start date
I only have one type of powder right now (Winchester StaBall 6.5) and I don't plan on getting anything else or reloading anything other than 6.5 Creedmoor for only 1 rifle right now.
This entire thread has cleared up a bunch of questions I didn't quite get.
Thanks for the clarification.
I tend to go real deep into detail whenever I start something new, so all this is great info.
As others have mentioned, your steps should be in order so you can remember them.
And the most important rule of reloading is stop when you get distracted.
I process a lot of .223/5.56 and am anal about labeling every step of the processing. I also sort headstamps, keep the ones I like and sell the rest. I use blue painters tape, a sharpie and put brass in ziplock bags.
And the most important rule of reloading is stop when you get distracted.
I process a lot of .223/5.56 and am anal about labeling every step of the processing. I also sort headstamps, keep the ones I like and sell the rest. I use blue painters tape, a sharpie and put brass in ziplock bags.
TheCZKid
Silver $$ Contributor
I like reading this stuff too. Taking good notes and keeping records of what I did, the components I used, how many times a case was shot, primer used, seating depth, is a great way to know exactly what you did.
This year I found I needed to start keeping better documentation on my brass too. So I made up a spreadsheet with 32 of these per page, cut them out, and fill them out like a little form, to go with each batch of brass.
This helps me know if the brass is unshot, or how many times shot, sized, prepped in various ways, and if steps still need to be done before it's ready to load. It's made it a LOT easier to keep track of brass in little sub-lots. I need to add Annealed to the list...
Especially important while I'm testing for an accurate load. Lots of details to track, but better if you're organized and take good notes.
I also put my brass in plastic containers, and label the outsides with what's in them, so it's easy to track what the heck is in each container. Makes it a lot easier to find what I'm looking for, and the state of what's inside. I also like blue painters tape!
This year I found I needed to start keeping better documentation on my brass too. So I made up a spreadsheet with 32 of these per page, cut them out, and fill them out like a little form, to go with each batch of brass.
This helps me know if the brass is unshot, or how many times shot, sized, prepped in various ways, and if steps still need to be done before it's ready to load. It's made it a LOT easier to keep track of brass in little sub-lots. I need to add Annealed to the list...
Especially important while I'm testing for an accurate load. Lots of details to track, but better if you're organized and take good notes.
| Brass log |
| Caliber ____________ |
| Gun Used __________ |
| Brand _____________ |
| Times Shot _________ |
| Primer Pocket ______ |
| Flash Hole _________ |
| Chamfer Deburr _____ |
| Neck Turned _______ |
| Sized ____ Bush _____ |
| Die Used __________ |
| Trimmed _________ |
| Ready to Load ______ |
I also put my brass in plastic containers, and label the outsides with what's in them, so it's easy to track what the heck is in each container. Makes it a lot easier to find what I'm looking for, and the state of what's inside. I also like blue painters tape!
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I probably wasn’t clear on the fired case measurement. I just use the Hornady comparator to measure cartridge base to ogive. That way I know what the measurement should be to bump back .092-.003.
Why are you crimping? Your bullet doesn't have a crimping groove. I doubt any BR shooter crimps. You may be distorting the shape of the bullet.
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Still got it wrong. Why after 5 years I’m still an amateur. It’s base to shoulder not base to ogive. Duh
Sixgun
The Millbastard
Your order of operations is good. The Lee Collet Die is VERY good..for concentricity at any budget. Try it for 26.99 at Brownells if you don't like it send it back. You just have to be careful not to push necks into the shoulder. The instructions will show you how to do it though. You really should anneal your necks every loading. It resets your neck tension and makes them uniform seating to seating. For a 6.5...8-9 seconds on a single propane Burnzamatic torch rotating them. I use a cordless drill with a keyless chuck tightened ever so lightly. There's no chuck marks or anything but it spins the brass in the flame..that's all you need.
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