It is. The only thing I've stayed with consistently for decades. Cars, sailboats, hunting, etc., have all come and gone. The reloading has outlasted all of them.
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Reloading questions and goofs from a novice
- Thread starter grumpygunner
- Start date
I typically am detail oriented but get a bit enthusiastic and miss important steps when starting something I find interesting.
I can't say that supply/cost issues aren't part of why I wanted to start reloading, but it's mostly because I find it interesting and I like being hands on in every parts of things I enjoy.
Lots of chewing going on.
A notebook is one of the first things I bought.
My schedule is fairly flexible, so time isn't a problem. I was doing small batches to try and focus on each step. Obviously that failed.
I have destroyed any of the cases I believe had improper dimensions. (~50%)
I have purchased a number of containers and printed some small cards to keep track of progress on individual batches.
I am halfway through my reloading manual. I assume I don't have to read the load data section until I need to.
Thank you for all the advice.
All constructive criticism is welcome and appreciated.
I have purchased a number of containers and printed some small cards to keep track of progress on individual batches.
I am halfway through my reloading manual. I assume I don't have to read the load data section until I need to.
Thank you for all the advice.
All constructive criticism is welcome and appreciated.
I only know of one person with recent experience. He has only done about 200 rounds of mostly pistol calibers and considers himself to be just as much of an amateur as I am.
divingin
Gold $$ Contributor
Yeah: Tumbling. I see no problem with tumbling. It's easy, and will remove contaminants that may get into the dies. Is it necessary? Probably not. But it's not bad, either.
I would say that decapping before tumbling (assuming you are using dry, vibration tumbling) is not needed, as dry tumbling doesn't clean the primer pockets anyway, and the decapping while sizing will clear the flash holes of any media blockage. I know a lot of people who don't bother to clean flash holes at all. But you can do so if you wish (don't go overboard - I helped a guy who admitted that his OCD caused him to clean flash holes until it was all sparkly brass colored, leaving his primers too far below the case head to be ignited by the firing pin.)
Yes, remove the decapping pin, and reinstall the expander ball. Check after sizing to make sure that air pressure didn't push primers out a bit (visual check should be fine.) The advantage of using One Shot is that it won't contaminate primers (or so they say.) Don't forget to reinstall the pin before moving to other brass.
Alternatively, you can use the sizing die as-is, and simply capture and reuse the primers. Just go slow on decapping, and wear appropriate eye and ear protection.
And as a second alternative, you can chalk it up to a mistake and toss the mistakes.
Your fired brass is too fat to fit the gauge. Which is the whole point of resizing: Get the brass back to a state where it's usable in the rifle. Check the Case Base to datum (shoulder) using tools designed for that, rather than your chamber gauge, which is designed to tell you if the cartridge has been sized properly (which it hasn't until you size it.)
Shouldn't full length size be a little higher on that list..???
Retired Grunt
F Open Shooter
Why? It's done after Annealing and before Loading.
Just wondering about trim length if trimmed etc before full length sizing.... I must have missed something.... That's not unusual for me...lol
The gauge you have is not intended for fired cases; it is for checking sized cases and/or loaded rounds.
I did not see any mention of a caliper, so I suggest you purchase one, preferably digital. Additionally, I recommend a "Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gauge 5 Bushing Set with Comparator". It allows you to measure the case head to datum length of a fired case and then adjust your full length sizing die for the desired case head to datum length--typically 0.002 inch less than a fire formed case for a bolt action rifle. (The primer should be removed or seated flush before measuring a fired case.)
This will NOT work. Until you reach a level where you KNOW what each step does and why that manual has to be followed.
e.g. You talk about headspace. You should read about what it really is and not what some people use incorrectly but others seem to accept it now.
You talk about pulling bullets and resizing but are questioning the safety of doing this with primed ammo. Well, you ARE thinking on the correct line here. You've recognized what MAY happen so you are getting to understand things better.
You don't need that brass right now so why not set it aside for the moment and it can be discussed done the line one day.
Retired Grunt
F Open Shooter
I am using an AMP: From their Website
Annealing should always be done before resizing. This eliminates spring back, and ensures repeatable and accurate shoulder bumping and neck sizing. Annealing should be done every reload.
We find that the best results are obtained with this sequence:
- De-prime - (optional depending on your cleaning sequence)
- Clean - tumble or ultrasonic etc. – again optional. Cleaning won’t affect annealing
- Anneal
- Lube - this is vital even with nitrided dies. (Imperial wax or spray such as Hornady One Shot) – note: Dry media graphite tends not to adhere well to annealed cases. We do not recommend its use.
- Resize - after annealing, THE SIZING DIE MAY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED for both shoulder bump and neck OD to account for zero spring back. See FAQ 3, 5 and 6. De-priming can be done as part of the resizing process.
Annealing Brass For Reloading | FAQ | Annealing Made Perfect
Not sure about something or have a question? Check our FAQ. Throughout our extensive R&D we have asked and answered many questions critical to perfecting the annealing process.
www.ampannealing.com
Retired Grunt
F Open Shooter
Sorry, Not sure how to insert both of your responses into one.
Ya that's what I was wondering... Case length for me always grows longer after resizing.... So I wait to trim etc till afterwards.... Unless your cases don't grow after resizing , like I said , mine always do....
The Lyman Reloading Book is one of the best resources out there. If you can find an experienced reloader to guide you through the process it would be very helpful and help you save time and money.
Being organized, having a detailed list of steps to follow are also helpful even for experience reloaders especially old farts like myself
Just as important as the steps to follow is understanding the reloading process and why each step is performed - the Lyman Book is helpful in this regard.
Best wishes in your reloading.
I have a couple good digital calipers from other projects I've done in the past.
I saw the Hornady headspace gauge but didn't see the difference between it and the Lyman gauge I have. If I understand correctly, the gauge I have is made to determine if the overall case dimensions are acceptable and the Hornady gauge you are referring is made to fine tune the distance from the case head to the datum line based on the headspace of my rifle.
Where the term headspace is better used when talking about the rifle.
What term is better used when using this measurement talking about the case?
Is that correct?
What you are going to measure is the distance from the base of the case to a point along the shoulder (datum line).
Headspace is the distance from the face of the CLOSED bolt to where that datum line touches the case inside the chamber. This would be changed (set) by the installer of the barrel. Some manufacturers have called their tool (erroneously) a headspace gauge.
Without trying to confuse matters (which the use of this name does) you may want to measure that distance on your BRASS.
Should you find a case that does not chamber OR after firing requires a HARD bolt lift to start extraction that would be an indicator that the shoulder of the brass may have to be 'bumped' back a couple of thousandths.
I'm trying hard to write this so it makes sense and I'm struggling.
Before you have reached this stage I would like to add one safety factor. Only the powder you are currently using should be on your bench. I mention this not out of disrespect but I do not know where you are in your reloading journey.
Your questions are well thought out and indicate to me this will a great hobby for you.
I've noticed the use of headspace being used to refer to exactly what you are doing but in fact headspace is internal.
You are doing fine and I hope I did not confuse the issue. There are many site members who could answer this clearer and in fewer words.
Headspace is the distance from the face of the CLOSED bolt to where that datum line touches the case inside the chamber. This would be changed (set) by the installer of the barrel. Some manufacturers have called their tool (erroneously) a headspace gauge.
Without trying to confuse matters (which the use of this name does) you may want to measure that distance on your BRASS.
Should you find a case that does not chamber OR after firing requires a HARD bolt lift to start extraction that would be an indicator that the shoulder of the brass may have to be 'bumped' back a couple of thousandths.
I'm trying hard to write this so it makes sense and I'm struggling.
Before you have reached this stage I would like to add one safety factor. Only the powder you are currently using should be on your bench. I mention this not out of disrespect but I do not know where you are in your reloading journey.
Your questions are well thought out and indicate to me this will a great hobby for you.
I've noticed the use of headspace being used to refer to exactly what you are doing but in fact headspace is internal.
You are doing fine and I hope I did not confuse the issue. There are many site members who could answer this clearer and in fewer words.
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