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Redneck annealing test for what it's worth

mix a few cases in with the pork skins and see if he notices the difference

on the serious side where are all the blog writers on this one. Has anyone ever done a serious test on annealing on the firing line? If so I can't find it, makes me wonder if the time I spend annealing is just snake oil.

Duh.............yeah. Bryan Litz did exactly that and documented in his latest book. In short, he compared annealed-every-time brass with non-annealed brass which had been fired 10 times. He could not detect any difference at the target. Note that that is NOT the same as saying that there is no difference, only that he did not detect it. His test was carefully done, as is all his work, but it was quite limited.

I suspect there is a difference but it's too small to be measured because of the way we test; i.e. humans firing bullets from hand made ammo through an unknown atmosphere. But, like primer pocket uniforming, I believe annealing-every-time is one of those tiny improvements which, when added together, makes a difference.

In any event, annealing will make your brass last longer. I anneal every cycle and I long ago stopped counting how many times I fire my brass. I simply keep using it until the primer pockets wear out. My previous problems with neck cracking is now not an issue.
 
Duh.............yeah. Bryan Litz did exactly that and documented in his latest book. In short, he compared annealed-every-time brass with non-annealed brass which had been fired 10 times. He could not detect any difference at the target. Note that that is NOT the same as saying that there is no difference, only that he did not detect it. His test was carefully done, as is all his work, but it was quite limited.

I suspect there is a difference but it's too small to be measured because of the way we test; i.e. humans firing bullets from hand made ammo through an unknown atmosphere. But, like primer pocket uniforming, I believe annealing-every-time is one of those tiny improvements which, when added together, makes a difference.

In any event, annealing will make your brass last longer. I anneal every cycle and I long ago stopped counting how many times I fire my brass. I simply keep using it until the primer pockets wear out. My previous problems with neck cracking is now not an issue.


Yep I have Litz's book where he tested the .223 and .308 but discounted the .308 because he had the AMP set to a different .308. I think he stated he that he is planning to expand the test to other cartridges in Vol 3. I have annealed for ten years, first by the socket on a drill and torch method every five cycles long before I competed. For the last year I have used a modded Anealeeze on the brass every load cycle. I treat my annnealer like a rabbits foot, it symbolizes my start to really refine my loading methods. While it may just be snake oil it does not seem to hurt so I will continue on.
 
I find no validity in this red neck test. Was the pliers used calibrated? What type of pliers, farmer, needle nose, vise grips? At what length was the pressure applied? More info needed here.


I'll bet you used a pocket protector and made a B- in science class. YOU are way over thinking this.:(
 
I have some tempilaq coming in the mail so I can get a bit more precise with my temperatures and timing. Also I used the 30-06 brass because I didn't care if I destroyed a couple but I'll be annealing my lapua 6br brass which I would think would take even less time since there's a lot less material in that than a 30-06.
I like your experiment ,let us no how the tempilaq works out.
 
Deep socket, metronome and pliers is good tools for an annealer. You may not see the difference on the line but you can measure how much good its doing. Does it help? Well if all my shoulders bump to the .001 and my seating pressure is the same on every one its not snake oil to me. Now to a guy banging steel with a factory sporter 30-06 will he ever see it on paper? No he wont but when you can see a difference in triggers then youll realize the benefit
My question is ,how soft is too soft and what effect does it have? Just asking?
 
My question is ,how soft is too soft and what effect does it have? Just asking?
I tried the tempilaq on some 6br brass and then loaded and fired it. My conentrcity improved and I'm using hand dies so I noticed seating force was more consistent. I fired them at 600 and had my best group yet but also had switched to better bullets so who knows.
 
"Very interesting" I've been using 2 torches, a battery ratchet and deep wall socket for years. Darkened room, when the neck changes color I quench, just to stop any heat migration. Not sure if it improves accuracy, but no split necks. IMHO, the $300.00 annealer is another gismo that makes this a very expensive sport. Ya gotta really get em hot to ruin em! Gotta go weigh primers.

Bill
The annealer does not make the sport more expensive if you count the time involved and how many times you burn your finger using a drill.

Redneck testing provides much better results for those of us who have problems with big words!
 
Ok, I've got this annealing thing, but about those primers, do you have to cut the pocket depth to match each one? And when I weigh them, do I put the heavier ones in the lighter brass?
 
Interesting read on the home brew annealing. I have some 7mm Mag brass that has been reloaded maybe 6 or 7 times now and the shoulders are starting to split on some of them. Wonder if I anneal the cases if it would help prevent splitting shoulders.
 
Interesting read on the home brew annealing. I have some 7mm Mag brass that has been reloaded maybe 6 or 7 times now and the shoulders are starting to split on some of them. Wonder if I anneal the cases if it would help prevent splitting shoulders.
Don't have much to lose
 

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