re-sizing lube

[richard_123]

Other than majestic lube, what are some other lubes that work well for re-sizing?

 

[richard_123]

the post should have stated Imperial sizing wax----------not majestic. Don' know what I was focusing on at that moment. Must have had a mind freeze like the weather outside. 1/7/2014 is 12 degrees

 

[KMart]

RCBS Case Lube -2. Works well and cleans up with a water wet cloth.

 

[LCazador]

Is there something else besides Redding sizing wax? It used to be Imperial, till Redding bought the right's to it. I've been using it for more than 40 years, every time I tried something else, I came right back to it. I've also made my own lube, but sometimes I can't get the ingredients.

 

[csandfort]

My first choice was Imperial until I tried Royal Case & Die Lube. Royal feels like it has greater lubricity and "less is more". It feels like there is less lube on the case but they go through the die easier. Plus it smells good and makes your finger tips baby soft

HTH, Cal

 

[STP]

Users of new dies rarely read the instructions that they need to be cleaned of the preservative used for protection. When cleaned per the instructions, the interior of the FL die needs to be pre-treated with the lube of your choice...otherwise, that 1st lubed case tends to need undue effort to size. The following cases need less effort, as the interior of the die has some residual lube that reduces the effort on the press handle. I use a cotton swab to lightly coat only the inside body portion of newly cleaned die, making sure the I do not go too far inwards (shoulder area). That`s why a small tin of Imperial die wax should last you a lifetime, when used properly.

Count me as another devoted user of Imperial die wax.

Regards,

Scott

 

[22BRGUY]

I've tried Imperial die wax and it does work well, however for many years I've also used Lee case lube and like it much also, mostly because it doesn't contaminate powder. I apply it with my fingertip to a piece of cloth attached to a flat piece of wood and rub it in. I then roll the case body over it for a light film of case lube and wipe it off with a cloth after resizing. I like not having to be concerned whether or not any got into the case mouth. JMHO

 

[Terry]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/758495/hornady-unique-case-lube-4-oz-tub

 

[gaboon]

I use the dillion case lube. Spray them , let sit for a few minutes,size them, and throw them in the tumbler for 15min. Cleans the brass right up and don't worry about residue left.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Hornady one shot paste is slicker than imperial and requires less effort to size with, thus giving me more consistent bump lengths. I no longer use imperial.

 

[savageshooter86]

I switched from imperial to Hornady One Shot spray. I like one shot a lot. Took me a couple cases to get it exactly how I wanted it. I found you have to wait at least 5 minutes for the lube to start to work properly. My shoulder bumps are very precise(for me <1 thous variation). Just wipe the outside of the case and start charging powder then seat bullets.

 

[finnaddict]

Imperial.

 

[jonbearman]

They all are the same,either its wax or lanolin with alcohol to suspend it.Buy what you like but the redding(imperial) is the best I have ever had that I had the privelage to use period.I have used almost everything including,rcbs 1&2,lee lube,dillon,homemade,and a myriad of others.I will use imperial for all my bench stuff and volume loading it will be dillon or one shot.

 

[searcher]

The Imperial (Redding) wax is top-notch. I use that and RCBS, depending on the cases and where I am using it, whether reforming, etc. Dillon spray also works O.K. Only lube I've ever used and stuck a case in a die was using the Hornady 0ne-shot spray (and I did follow directions). They are all the same until that happens...

 

[BoydAllen]

I have, and have used many different case lubes. I am not a high volume loader. I am picky about getting all the lube off of cases, and reading other's accounts, I would say that many are not accomplishing that. Recently I have been doing some reloading working with a new caliber, and after using some die wax, and feeling some residue on the cases after wiping them off, and not wanting to use some solvent when loading indoors, I switched to RCBS Case lube II, and I must say that the sizing was effortless, and after wiping them off with a wet rag, and drying them, they were completely free of any lube residue. What more could I have asked for?

 

[1shot]

I'm another Imperial fan but I take all my sized brass and put them in a clean towel and give it 4-5 second blast of Brake Kleen from W-mart, and no, I didn't misspell it after resizing. Make sure and buy the red labeled can, not the green. The green smells terrible and doesn't work nearly as well. Anyhow, after I spray the cases, and just grab all 4 corners of the towel and "seesaw" back and forth for 20 seconds or so. The cases are clean and dry so you can go to your next step or leave them sit for a while, whatever makes you feel better. I was given a tip that mink oil like you get in a shoe polish tin works well and it does, but it doesn't clean off with the above method like Imperial does.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd

 

[Webster]

Some of the die lubes are now water based. I wouldn't use them. Some reloaders have found rust in their dies. I would think it would harden on the lube pad when it dries out. Use an oil based lube. It won't cause rust or harden.

 

[Syncrowave]

I always used the greasy RCBS sizing lube, and it seemed like it took an AWFUL lot of effort to resize .270 and 30-06 cases...then I started putting some RCBS sizing lube on an old sock and then spraying some WD-40 on top of it and mixing them together, then putting a LIGHT coat of that on my cases before resizing and the difference was like night and day. It made it much easier to resize the cases.

Is there anything wrong with doing this, assuming you remove all the oil afterwards?

 

[Webster]

IMO your mixture should be OK. I like to keep it simple. I use a very light viscosity oil I got from work. I am surprised it works well since it has very little viscosity. When I FL resize it takes very little effort to get the case into the die. If I was reducing the body a lot more it would probably seize in the die. I don't know why motor oil wouldn't work. You shouldn't have to buy over priced little containers. The oil is cleaned from the cases with a q-tip then I lay them out on the driveway on a paper towel and spray them inside and out with brake cleaner. I only reload about 400 cases a year.

There is no benefit to having graphite or mica in the oil you put in the barrel after cleaning. Both are inert and don't do anything but sit there.
I'm not sure if WD40 is petroleum based. It's a very light viscosity. If you spray WD40 on a surface doesn't most of it evaporate and leave a thin film?


Motor oil contains a lot of sulphur containing chemicals it might discolor polished steel or the bolt shaft.

 

[Syncrowave]

There is no benefit to having graphite or mica in the oil you put in the barrel after cleaning. Both are inert and don't do anything but sit there.

Graphite wouldn't help protect the gun from rust, I don't think, but wouldn't it lube the barrel/bullet when you shot it, almost like molybdenum disulfide?

I'm not sure if WD40 is petroleum based. It's a very light viscosity. If you spray WD40 on a surface doesn't most of it evaporate and leave a thin film?

I think so, and even that light film eventually evaporates. They used to put menhaden (fish) oil in it, I think, which made lures and fishing tackle sprayed with it attractive to fish, but I think they've changed the recipe since then...