Re-barreling a Glued in Panda

[spitfire_er]

Just picked up a used S&S precision built 1,000 yd BR rifle and was thinking about throwing on a new barrel. I can do that part, no big deal, but I've never taken a glued in action out. I've read ether freeze it or a clothes Iron.

I don't really have a freezer big enough, so I'm thinking the Iron. I was really hoping to avoid this because I have herd It can mess up the stock finish. It has a really nice clear coat ghost flame job on it and I would have to have to have it redone.

Any suggestions. I would rather have a bolt in action, but I guess If I have to glue it back in I will after I put the new barrel on.

 

[STS]

You don't need to take the action out of the stock. Check all the clearances and headspace measurements on the barrel that you have, and if they are all correct, fit and chamber your new barrel to the same numbers.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Why do you need to take action out of the stock to fit a barrel to it?
No need to do that.

Follow STS's advise.

 

[spitfire_er]

thanks guys. That was going to be my next question, just leaving it in there. Sounds like that will be the plan!

I've never dealt with glued in actions before, mostly hunting and F-class where I never glue anything in, so I wasn't quite sure with SOP's for a barrel switch/replacement.

thanks again.

 

[BoydAllen]

Short range benchrest shooters switch barrels with glued in actions all the time. For your Panda you need a rear entry action wrench like the one that Kelbly's sells. Pbike makes and sells good ones (look around for his posts.) that are the same design as well. You will also probably want a Davidson style barrel vise. I change barrels in just a few minutes, without removing the scope from the rifle. It is not a problem. Just remember to apply a very thin uniform coating of some sort of anti seize to the tenon and shoulder.

 

[rayjay]

You will need to be able to use thread wires or have a thread gauge. Iirc, Kelblys sells a threaded sleeve that matches the threads in the receiver. You use this as a thread gauge so you know the tenon will fit the action threads before you remove the bbl from the lathe.

You can also make a longer sleeve that threads onto the tenon and butts against the shoulder. Then you use a depth mike to measure down to the headspace gauge to verify the headspace and the depth of the cone. You could need to make or buy a cone measuring button.

 

[spitfire_er]

Alright, I was wondering about fitting it too.

I have access to the action wrench so we're good there. I have not really used threading wires, but I read up on them and seems fairly straight forward. I might get a hold of Kelbys and see if I can get one of those sleeves, otherwise I can make one.

As for headspace, maybe I'll make a sleeve and I can headspace and do my cone measurements off that. I'll have to check the specs for cone angle too. I have a couple cone reamers but they are for Win model 70's and a few other older rifles. If nothing else I can always do it the old fashion way on the lathe.

Hey,

Thanks again for all the directive guys. If this was a free action it would be fairly straight forward, but I guess that would be too easy.

 

[spitfire_er]

I see Kelbys has the barrel dimensions online so between that and the original barrel I should be good.

 

[butchlambert]

These are the tools I made. One for headspace and the other for the cone. Measure your old barrel and machine your new one to match. Kelbly does sell their thread inserts and as mentioned it works great to check your threads.