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Question for the cut rifling fans.

I've had great luck with both button and cut barrels. It seems that everywhere I read the cut rifling camp claims a longer barrel life. I know that this is hard to quantify as some Fords last longer than Chevrolet and vice versa, and I know that there are many factors that determine barrel life including caliber, heat, definition of acceptable accuracy. etc....

So here is the question. If you are in the cut rifling camp how much longer do you think cut rifling last before exceeding your personal standards of accuracy. all else being equal? Has anybody kept records of the same rifle barreled with different barrels cut and button, but same cartridge? Looking for an answer in maybe percentage. 10% more shots, 5% more, 0%. I'm sure that if they do last longer it can't be much since barrel manufactures are so competitive.

By answering in percentage format it should not matter if you change barrels at 1/4 moa, 1/2 moa or whatever.

Thanks,

Sorry to beat a dead horse once again but have never had this question answered by percentage before.
 
I don't think it much matters but it would be hard to prove and the only thing that would matter to me is that it shoots great. I have been told that more people prefer cut rifling over all others but Krieger would know more about that and if you asked Shilen, I'm sure they would have a different opinion as well...Hopefully what ever you choose will work well for you . I have or had 3 kriegers 3 shilens and a 2 brux an 2 E.R. Shaw barrels and all shoot or shot so well I cant seem to tell the difference in barrel life in the ones that passed on to stakes..
 
The advantage comes down to the rate of twist. With cut rifled barrels, you can get essentially what you want.
 
JRS said:
The advantage comes down to the rate of twist. With cut rifled barrels, you can get essentially what you want.


I can't offer any experience on which process yields longer accuracy or barrel life. But, I agree with the comments above. The ability to make the length of twist is more exact, where as other forms of rifling can have slight variances in the length of twist. In addition, the process of cut rifling is less stressful on a barrel during the rifling process. Lastly, the bore and groove dimensions are very uniform with the cut rifling process.
 
I find there are many questions in shooting that don't have answers with the kind of proof that would stand evaluation if you were to present it for scientific review, add to that there is a whole lot of "Monkey see-Monkey do" and you have a situation with a lot of information that is not what I'd call reliable.

Taking this barrel life question. How much longer might one last than another? Could we say 10%? (probably greatly over stated but work with it) If we use the 6.5-284 or the 7Rsaum for a study case then most figure that they will get 1000 to 1500 rounds, maybe out of a barrel? So the better process would yield a bonus of 100 to 150 rounds before the barrel went south, but that assumes identical shooting regimens. Then take into account that nobody can actually tell you exactly when a barrel will give up on you and you see the difficulty? How much life would you lose from an F class barrel lighting it up in a good condition and running your 20 shot string in 11 minutes? Or taking 12 sighters in the first match of the day then ripping off a 20 shot string?

The answer is probably that one may have some kind of advantage over the other, but in application the proof just doesn't seem to be out there because as far as I know nobody has yet purchased 20 of each and set down and done the side by side testing.
 
Each seems to have its' fans. Get the best barrel you can afford, fit & chambered by someone that knows what they are doing, then shoot it till it pukes, rebarrel, repeat.
 
i did not post the above and have no idea what it means. how could a post like this be made in my name? anyway now that i'm here, i must note that i have changed my mind re cut vs button since i'v had a button rifled barrel chambered in 20 TAC. got a muellerworks 20 cal on the advice of a well known world record holder and immediately borescoped it...the surface looked like a cut bore! no tooling, etc marks and it shoots great. factory buttoned bores, esp savage, look like a million speedbumps.
 
lpreddick said:
i did not post the above and have no idea what it means. how could a post like this be made in my name?

Someone hacked your account, or you left yourself logged in here and someone had access to your computer. Either way, change your password ASAP.
 
I thought the real difference was less stress in cut barrels versus a button that imparts stress by moving the metal to form the rifling.
 
I have found that cut rifle barrels seem more consistent, barrel to barrel from the same manufacturer than button barrels. By that I mean that the load doesn't change as much all else the same. I haven't seen any difference accuracy-wise and I try not to find out that my barrel stopped working in the middle of a match so I don't usually push them that far before I put something else on.
 

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