another newbie question...finally got around to reloading .223 cases, mixed headstamp. I gave up on trying to seat primers (WSR) using my RockChucker, a good many were going in crooked, or staying high, and when I rotated case for several level seating pulls, I was seeing dents on the face of the primer. I think these were on Fiocchi cases. So I switched to a Sinclair priming tool, which i like for its two stage feedback when priming my 6BR cases. But with the .223 cases, the Hornady and Federal (Amer.Eagle) cases primed easily (almost too easily?), but the Fiocchi (GFL) cases required a lot of pressure, and when the primer is seated flush, it almost looks like the primer has spread out to totally fill the pocket, almost seamless. Is this dangerous? Should I ditch the Fiocchi cases? All cases had been decapped and ultrasonically cleaned, so the primer pockets were clean.
primer seating
- Thread starter Ed333
- Start date
fivering said:
Most uniformers don't cut the side of the primer pocket or radius the mouth. I've found Fiocchi cases to be almost like crimped military brass.
When I run across any of them in .223 or 9mm I just give them a quick trip across my Dillon swaging tool. The spud will open the primer pocket up to the proper size and radius the lip. Primers will then seat just like the rest of the cases.
All a typical uniforming tool will accomplish is square corners in the bottom of the pocket and a uniform depth. Not bad accomplishments but not the solution.
Well I can't say it's "dangerous",, not knowing what your firing them in.
But I'd certainly ditch brass that's tuff to load, especially with 223 as they are easy to come by and cheap.
Crush the shoulder with a pliers and start a scrap bucket, scrap brass can be turned in for $$, an Ice Cream pail full can be worth $30
But I'd certainly ditch brass that's tuff to load, especially with 223 as they are easy to come by and cheap.
Crush the shoulder with a pliers and start a scrap bucket, scrap brass can be turned in for $$, an Ice Cream pail full can be worth $30
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
In the past, I have had Lapua cases in which the radius at the bottom corners of the primer pocket was too large, and would interfere with primers seating below flush. Regular primer pocket uniformers not being designed to cut on their outsides would jam up when I tried to use them to fix the pockets. There is a fixed depth carbide cutter that is specially made for this problem, that I got from Russ Haydon for about $25 that fixed the problem. I have not used it for some time because this has not been a problem with all Lapua brass. You might give him a call.
OK, dumb question. Could it be that these cases originally had crimped primers? I've come across .223 brass bearing commercial, not military, headstamps that had crimped primers. These would be very hard to prime without removing the crimp, and I'd guess the primers would (assuming you could actually reprime the cases) be flattened & would fill the hole.
That crimped brass that you have come accross, wouldn't have been Federal or IMI brass would it have?
No, it was PMC and Winchester white box. But I'm guessing these 2 aren't the only ones out there that get crimped, and finding it on Federal and/or IMI wouldn't surprise me. Once you learn what the crimping looks like, (a little compression ring around the primer hole edge), it's easy to spot. You can either ream it out or better, I think, swage it out. I use an RCBS decrimping die, and it works very well. Some of my shooting buddies prefer the Dillon, which doesn't require adjustment for different brands. Great tool, but kinda pricey and my RCBS does just fine and the adjustment is easy. If you use mixed-brand brass a lot, though, (I don't), the Dillon might be worth the extra money.
Flush with the bottom, but be careful to not to crush the primer, delicate feel here is important.
Link said:
The primer should be seated slightly below the case head. I use a hand priming tool (Lee Autoprime) rather than prime with the loading press, and run my finger across the base of each newly-primed case head. If you do this, you should feel a slight depression as your finger goes across the primer. The "feel"of the primer bottoming out is easy with a hand primer, and that's what you're looking for. High primers are a no-no, but you don't want to crush the priming compound, either. Gentle but firm does it.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
One of the less used methods for seating primers, are the tools that screw into the top of reloading presses, and use a regular shell holder in the piece that does. On the top of the ram, in place of the shell holder an adapter for for primer seating rods, that are furnished for both large and small primers, is installed . RCBS makes one, as well as Lee. I am not sure about any others. In any case, the reason that I bring them up is that they are adjustable to produce a wide range of mechanical advantage, and feel. If the "die" that holds the case is adjusted so that the primer is seated too near the top of the ram travel on my Rockchucker, where the mechanical advantage is very high, an over zealous operator can almost rip the rim off of a case without meaning to. As the die is screwed farther down into the press this advantage, or leverage is progressively decreased. By finding the correct adjustment one can arrive at a point where very good feel and control are obtained. When the tool is properly adjusted one can easily feel the primer bottom in its pocket. This is in contrast to the normal primer arms that work at the bottom of the press stroke, where there is a lot less mechanical advantage, due to the position of the press linkage.
For years I read that using press priming arms could cause primers to be crushed because of excessive leverage that the press afforded. Because of that, I had always used one or another hand priming tools. One day, I decided to try priming a few cases with the piece that came with my RCBS press, and then, out of curiosity, I ran the primed cases through my hand tool, operating the lever with my normal amount of force,. The primers that I had seated with a good amount of force on the press, were seated a little deeper with the hand tool, that apparently had greater leverage than was afforded at the bottom of the ram stroke. So much for crushing primers with the press. Just to be clear, the type of tool that I wrote about at the beginning of this post, is entirely different than the old bottom of the stroke priming arms.
For years I read that using press priming arms could cause primers to be crushed because of excessive leverage that the press afforded. Because of that, I had always used one or another hand priming tools. One day, I decided to try priming a few cases with the piece that came with my RCBS press, and then, out of curiosity, I ran the primed cases through my hand tool, operating the lever with my normal amount of force,. The primers that I had seated with a good amount of force on the press, were seated a little deeper with the hand tool, that apparently had greater leverage than was afforded at the bottom of the ram stroke. So much for crushing primers with the press. Just to be clear, the type of tool that I wrote about at the beginning of this post, is entirely different than the old bottom of the stroke priming arms.
Boyd,
The Lee press mounted priming tool is the one that I have been using for years. The feel that I have developed using this tool to prime the cases has become quite sensitive and I can really feel what is going on very well. And it does not take much pressure either, couple of fingers on the arm is about all that is needed.
The Lee press mounted priming tool is the one that I have been using for years. The feel that I have developed using this tool to prime the cases has become quite sensitive and I can really feel what is going on very well. And it does not take much pressure either, couple of fingers on the arm is about all that is needed.
rjtfroggy
Gold $$ Contributor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCBS-Automatic-Primer-Tool-9460-Gunsmith-and-Reloading-Equipment-/300776442946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4607ac4c42
This is what I went to very precise, same depth everytime.I saw this first on a show about the armorers for the Army snipers and how they load for those weapons.
Don't know if it is what Boyd is talking about but it works for me.
P.S. I only used the Ebay link because sometimes they are the easiest to find.
This is what I went to very precise, same depth everytime.I saw this first on a show about the armorers for the Army snipers and how they load for those weapons.
Don't know if it is what Boyd is talking about but it works for me.
P.S. I only used the Ebay link because sometimes they are the easiest to find.
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