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Pressure signs

CatShooter said:
I own and run a Scottish digital pressure rig, and I used to run a Copper Crusher Bond Universal receiver ( :( ) for one of my clients - and I have always figured if I was +/- 5,000-psia, I was having a great day...
With old school equipment like that I can imagine +/-5000 was good.
With modern day strain gauge equipment, pressure can be measured accurately to less then 500-psi.
Philip
 
UltraBR30 said:
CatShooter said:
I own and run a Scottish digital pressure rig, and I used to run a Copper Crusher Bond Universal receiver ( :( ) for one of my clients - and I have always figured if I was +/- 5,000-psia, I was having a great day...
With old school equipment like that I can imagine +/-5000 was good.
With modern day strain gauge equipment, pressure can be measured accurately to less then 500-psi.
Philip

500 pounds?? HA!!! Get the needle out of your arm. The Scottish rig IS digital strain gauged.

You can get strain gauges to tell you anything you want - it does not mean it is true.

You believe your chronograph is accurate to 1 fps - that is what it says in the little window ;) ;) ;) ....

I can make you a good deal on a bridge I'm not using anymore! ;) ;) ;)
 
CatShooter said:
500 pounds?? HA!!! Get the needle out of your arm. The Scottish rig IS digital strain gauged.

You can get strain gauges to tell you anything you want - it does not mean it is true.

You believe your chronograph is accurate to 1 fps - that is what it says in the little window ;) ;) ;) ....

I can make you a good deal on a bridge I'm not using anymore! ;) ;) ;)

If +/-5000 is all you can get, your not learning nothing are you, and artificial resultants at best.
Then there is the real world.
 
UltraBR30 said:
CatShooter said:
500 pounds?? HA!!! Get the needle out of your arm. The Scottish rig IS digital strain gauged.

You can get strain gauges to tell you anything you want - it does not mean it is true.

You believe your chronograph is accurate to 1 fps - that is what it says in the little window ;) ;) ;) ....

I can make you a good deal on a bridge I'm not using anymore! ;) ;) ;)

If +/-5000 is all you can get, your not learning nothing are you, and artificial resultants at best.
Then there is the real world.

If you say so...
 
bigedp51 said:
CatShooter said:
BigEd... badd puppy!! :( :( :(

You took my comments out of context - the question was related to the size of the case, not hardness

CatShooter

I didn't take your comments out of context or criticize your comments, I just wanted the people reading this to take anything they read here as gospel. The OP asked about pressure signs and primers and many said you can't trust just reading the primers. And I added you can't trust your fired cases either because all brass isn't the same hardness.

Meaning a load you work up with Lake City or Lapua brass will look OK "BUT" if you switch to Federal or Remington brass you will have signs of excess pressure.

The factory loaded cases below in my scrap brass bucket have over sized primer pockets after the first firing. (never reloaded) This doesn't mean the load was over pressure, it simply means the manufacture made the brass too soft.

193natorejects001_zps87560a0a.jpg


Below is a workup load showing increasing pressure with primers and how people should learn to read their primers.

pressuresigns_zps50637610.jpg


Below are signs of excess pressure with .223/5.56 brass and what reloaders should look for on the base of the case.

ARpressure_zps8e24342b.jpg


So again Catshoter my two dyslexic typing fingers failed to get my point across, I was hoping you would post your Rockwell hardness figures you posted before and educate all the people reading this about "ALL" the variables when looking for pressure signs. (especially the novices new to reloading)

Meaning you could be well below actual max pressure but soft primers and brass would make you think you are.

P.S. I would never think I could teach you anything CatShooter..............................
the only person I know who could teach you anything would be fguffy. :o

NOTE: Even your posts are starting to read like fguffys.................... ::)

CatShooter said:
IF the rifle was shot in the same geographical area;
If the effects of gravity are the same;
IF your dog got a clean bill of health from the vet and can go hunting with you;
And IF your favorite guppy isn't in heat and breading with that God damned horny gold fish!

Bazinga :D

I mean, not everyone can be a Einstein in this forum when we have so many Yo-yos with meaningless theories.

einsteinyoyo-a_zps5e0c474d.jpg

Wow! I guess I am way too conservative! I've never seen any such signs of overpressure on my cases (the bolt marks) such as shown here in my over 30 years of rollin' my own. :o Might be why my Ruger M77V in 22-250, bought used in a gunshop in Burns OR over 33 years ago and with more than 5,000 rounds since then will still shoot less than .5 moa (if I do my part) I might need to get more aggressive in my old age.
 
Dear CatShooter

Thank you for posting the brass hardness figures, your the man! (even when your grumpy)

But "WHY" do you force me to beat this information out of you?

cat%20fight_zpsicsl9vee.gif


P.S. If you want to have some fun with your cats just buy a Syma S107G RC helicopter and buzz their heads. The cats will love you for it. ::)

funny-cat-getting-fright-toy-helicopter-animated-gif-pics_zpsirrno0tg.gif


NOTICE: No cats were hurt or injured during the making of this posting.
 
243win ,,great list,,,it looks like something from a old time reloading manual,,,,that is written so even a beginner will understand ,,,,I really like #15 ,,,when you open the bolt and the primer falls out !!!!,,,I have done that ,,hahah,,,,,Roger
 
centerlineseal said:
Wow! I guess I am way too conservative! I've never seen any such signs of overpressure on my cases (the bolt marks) such as shown here in my over 30 years of rollin' my own. :o Might be why my Ruger M77V in 22-250, bought used in a gunshop in Burns OR over 33 years ago and with more than 5,000 rounds since then will still shoot less than .5 moa (if I do my part) I might need to get more aggressive in my old age.

centerlineseal

The photo I posted with .223/5.56 pressure signs came from a AR15 forum, and they are always asking basic reloading questions. How many times have you seen replies in this forum stating "I increase the load until brass flows into the ejector and back off a few grains"? So some noob reads this and makes a workup load with his Lake City cases and thinks its safe in his soft Remington and Federal cases.

My practice loads in my AR15 are also conservative, and I try to keep the chamber pressures at approximately 50,000 psi. Some of us might remember how long our .222 brass lasted at 50,000 psi or 46,000 cup. ;)

percentburn-b_zps50905a17.jpg
 
bigedp51 said:
"Some of us might remember how long our .222 brass lasted at 50,000 psi or 46,000 cup." ;)

About 35 to 40 years! :)

I bought 400 pieces of Winchester 22-250 brass in 1975, went through 5 barrels, and finely threw them away (still usable) 3 years ago, cuz they were so raggity and fugly.

The loads were 3750fps w/50gr bullets.

Bought 200 pieces of beautiful Lapua 22-250... it is so pretty, it's a shame to shoot it. ;) ;) ;)
 
I just resurrected a 222 in a Rem 600 for ease of handlin' out of an old Toyota FJ40. Just startin' on the load development. I'm havin' some fun! Got some 338 Lapua brass I'm ooglin' too ! LOL

I have learned a few things with this thread. 10-Q
 
Thank you for your post!
Lot of good info.
The hardness test explained a lot!

My issues started when I switched brass from FC to Lapua. My powder charge and velocities were going up and was not getting what I thought was normal pressure signs. Always better to ask questions!
So I thought I'd tap into the wealth of knowledge on this forum!
Thanks again.
Donny
 

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