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Precise deburring tool

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted noremaximus
  • Start date Start date

Deleted noremaximus

Not sure if this has been asked, but I am trying to find a precise way to deburr my brass. I am using the K&M chamfer tool. Which is great, very precise. I can't seem to find anything within that level for deburring. Also, does having that level of precision really matter for deburring brass? This would be for 600 yard competition.
 
The "KEY" to case deburring is to remove any burr on the inside , and outside of the case neck . On the inside , to keep from damaging the bullet as it is seated . And on the outside , to keep any burr from interfering with chambering the round , and pushing the round off-center when it is chambered . Factory barrels ; and many TR rifles have "No-Turn" necks chambering , and that larger diameter can allow a round with a burr on the case neck to be chambered off-center enough to possibly have a effect on accuracy . Most comp shooters use a 20 degree deburring tool on the inside , and a standard 45 degree on the outside if doing this task manually . I use a R.C.B.S Trim-Pro II with the 3-way cutter head that does the entire operation in one slice . There are several tools out there that do the same . but the KEY is to remove that pesky burr .
 
noremaximus said:
Not sure if this has been asked, but I am trying to find a precise way to deburr my brass. I am using the K&M chamfer tool. Which is great, very precise. I can't seem to find anything within that level for deburring. Also, does having that level of precision really matter for deburring brass? This would be for 600 yard competition.
Click to expand...
I filled a cut in half case with 0000 steel wool and using a Sinclair Driver and Caseholder and drill motor, I turn the case neck into the steel wool at high speed for a 5 count to remove burrs. It get both sides of the neck.
 
I filled a cut in half case with 0000 steel wool and using a Sinclair Driver and Caseholder and drill motor, I turn the case neck into the steel wool at high speed for a 5 count to remove burrs. It get both sides of the neck.
Click to expand...
Interesting, so any feedback in using the K&M chamfer tool and using 0000 Steel wool to deburr? Any precision shooters out there have any ideas about this? Thanks again. I'm currently using the K&M chamfer tool and Lyman deburr tool for case prep.
 
The best manual tool I have used for inside neck chamfering is the Lyman VLD, it chamfers inside very smoothly, sharp, no drag. I use the 'rocket' for the outside.

www.lymanproducts.com

VLD (Very Low Drag) Chamfer/Reamer

Improved bullet seating. Works great for any long boat tail bullet design. For many years, the Lyman VLD Chamfer/ Reamer has been extremely popular with reloaders due to its gentle 22 degree cutting angle. It cuts much easier than standard 45 degree angle reamers and works great for any long...
www.lymanproducts.com www.lymanproducts.com

I have also used others including the K&M controlled depth tapered reamer.

Finish by hand-spinning the case mouth in steel wool embedded in a deep well socket.

One day I will get the Giraud bench mounted 3 in 1 trimmer.....:rolleyes:
 
Keep in mind about 25X Teslong magnification.

Length trimmed on a sharp cutter Forster trimmer. Inside chamfer and outside deburr with a Wilson-RCBS hand held burr tool. Simple, works.
 

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noremaximus said:
Interesting, so any feedback in using the K&M chamfer tool and using 0000 Steel wool to deburr? Any precision shooters out there have any ideas about this? Thanks again. I'm currently using the K&M chamfer tool and Lyman deburr tool for case prep.
Click to expand...
A12x loupe should be a part of everyone's reloading tools. I use a variety of chamfer de-bur tools including the K&M and the Wilson that goes in the trimmer, the the hand held from Wilson, Forster, RCBS, Lyman, WCT, and Lee, they all have their place. I don't care which tool you use if you look at the neck with the loupe its rough and some are really rough. Anything I trim gets spun in 0000 steel wool. Years ago I was reading Al Harrels website on his reloading techniques and read about his case spinner to hold steel wool so I made a couple. I wouldn't be without them or the loupe these days. High quality steel wool works the best and lasts longer than the stuff you buy at Menards to buff your varnish after it dries.

I've had the privilege of sitting with a couple of the guys that typically place first or second at the match's when they reload. One of the things I noticed is they took a deep well socket stuff with steel wool and gave the necks a light twist even though they didn't trim the necks.

Here's a link to Al's case spinner. Scroll down the page till you come to it, its easy to make.




 
If you get or have a giraud trimmer take the time to set it up right. I've seen brass that is ruined from, what I assume, is someone saying good enough. Most of it seems to be the inside chamfer.

Paul
 
I use my Gracey trimmer with a Giraud carbide cutter to simultaneously trim, outside debur, and inside VLD chamfer - the results are very good with clean cuts on all surfaces. I bought the Gracey before the Giraud hit the market, and today would buy the Giraud. Trimming with either is very quick - a couple of seconds per case. The Giraud has a definite advantage in caliber changes, especially if you buy a cutter/caseholder assembly for each caliber. I'd like to have a Giraud, but having invested in the Gracey there's not enough benefit to change now.
 
noremaximus said:
Not sure if this has been asked, but I am trying to find a precise way to deburr my brass. I am using the K&M chamfer tool. Which is great, very precise. I can't seem to find anything within that level for deburring. Also, does having that level of precision really matter for deburring brass? This would be for 600 yard competition.
Click to expand...
I shoot a 6 BR in 600 comp a BR ackley at 1000, the Wilson trimmer does a very good job leaving very little to chamfer or deburr. As they don't grow very fast or need a bunch of attention the Lyman tool works well.
Bottom line
Your fine.....
 
I tried a Gracey and bought a Giraud. It was better than the gracey, but not perfect.

I sold the Giraud and bought a Henderson. Some of the best money I have spent in the reloading room in a long time.
 
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