Picture of brass with tempilac after annealing. Opinions please.

[Nrdon]

The case on the bottom has been annealed using my diy induction annealer. The one on top is for reference with the same tempilac. The lower tempilac is 450 and upper is 850.

The neck on the annealed case just glowed for a second when my timer stopped. The 850 just started changing color. The 450 never changed so I am thinking this is good.

What do you think? Thanks for the input.

 

[LHSmith]

The case on the bottom has been annealed using my diy induction annealer. The one on top is for reference with the same tempilac. The lower tempilac is 450 and upper is 850.

The neck on the annealed case just glowed for a second when my timer stopped. The 850 just started changing color. The 450 never changed so I am thinking this is good.

What do you think? Thanks for the input.

I always go by the color change- if it looks like Lapua it's GTG for me. Can't tell from pic. Looks like not long enough.

 

[brainiac]

My DIY induction annealer doesn't give the color change on the brass like a propane torch does. Even though the Tempilaq reacts the same.

 

[6ShotsOr5?]

What I see when I do it is the Tempilaq becomes colorless when it gets to temperature (in my case 750 F). You can still see it because it’s shiny (lacquer!), but it’s clear.

I think I’m seeing that change to clear happening at the top of the case in your bottom picture.

 

[BoydAllen]

Years back when setting up a dual flame rotary annealer, we painted narrow stripes of 300, 400,and 500 degree tempilaq slightly separated from shoulder point to head. What we learned was that we could use the 500 setting the time so that it discolored down to where new Lapua's color line is.

 

[powderbrake]

850 seems high, I use 750 with my induction annealer.

You should try painting a stripe ( one brushwidth wide) from the top of the case, down the neck, shoulder and case body to about where your high temp paint stops. You can forget the 450, or paint a stripe from the top of where it is now , down the case.

The long stripe allows you to see where the high temp point is.

Also look at a piece of new , unfired brass, and you can see how far down the factory anneal is.

 

[Big Mc]

The case on the bottom has been annealed using my diy induction annealer. The one on top is for reference with the same tempilac. The lower tempilac is 450 and upper is 850.

The neck on the annealed case just glowed for a second when my timer stopped. The 850 just started changing color. The 450 never changed so I am thinking this is good.

What do you think? Thanks for the input.

I put mine on the inside of the neck. To me that gives a better reading. Just my two cents Tommy Mc

 

[emmett]

+1 when flame contacts the paint I don't seem to get a reliable temp reading even just a tiny bit on the rim of the neck will light it up. I even turn the flame at an angle to protect the paint. This way the paint melts clear. Maybe I misunderstood something but it don't seem possible for the paint to indicate the temp of the brass when the flame is directed to the paint. Educate me please. I alco use a bit of 450 bout 2/3 down the case cause I don't like to drop my cases in water and if they cool in air without melting the450 I know the lower part of the case is not getting annealed. At least I think I know this.

 

[Nrdon]

There is no flame. This is an induction coil.

 

[mousegunner]

I want to do .223 but doing the inside of the neck seems like it's hard to see. Anybody have an issue?

 

[divingin]

What I do with a flame type annealer (Annealeez) is to darken the room, and adjust the dwell time so the case mouth just starts to glow a bit and back the dwell off a bit. Seems to work for me.

No idea on an induction annealer, though it would seem to me that the temp would work out to be the same(ish).

The whole Tempilaq thing had so many different opinions and procedures that I just went with case color change.

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