Case annealing (which looks correct)

[Webster]

I never posted a chart

Sorry, It was John Russell's chart.

 

[Webster]

Which would make my point even stronger.

Explain.

 

[ToddKS]

I appreciate everyone's input who has replied. It is very interesting to see the different thoughts on the topic.

I have changed how/where I am applying the tempilaq and am using other observational techniques to verify that feedback (observation with lights off, looking for point of flare off, etc). It is interesting to note that as others have mentioned the run time to the same outcome is different every time I light the torches. I have definitely gained some knowledge about the process and set up in the last few days.

Thanks again to those who posted suggestions.

 

[hunter686]

The whole "When the flame turns orange the brass is busted" makes no sense. I always anneal clean brass and i don't see any colour change in the flame or brass. If I'm lucky i get a very light pink tinge in the brass and that slight squeaky feel to the touch.
On the other hand if i anneal brass that has any of the following:

• Hasn't been cleaned
• That has any fresh un-brushed carbon
• Sizing wax

I get an orange flame after about 1 second. It's only when i anneal slightly oxidised brass that i can see the nice blue colour running down the neck. My typical anneal on my 6.5mm is 5.5 seconds on Lapua brass

 

[John Russell]

The whole "When the flame turns orange the brass is busted" makes no sense. I always anneal clean brass and i don't see any colour change in the flame or brass. If I'm lucky i get a very light pink tinge in the brass and that slight squeaky feel to the touch.
On the other hand if i anneal brass that has any of the following:

• Hasn't been cleaned
• That has any fresh un-brushed carbon
• Sizing wax

I get an orange flame after about 1 second. It's only when i anneal slightly oxidized brass that i can see the nice blue colour running down the neck. My typical anneal on my 6.5mm is 5.5 seconds on Lapua brass

^^^

What he said.

Cases were new. On the left were new, out of the package - cases on the right were washed in Tide liquid clothes detergent, double rinsed, and then dried in an oven @ 225°.

Both sets were out of the same package, annealed at the same time, for the same time.

 

[243winxb]

Ethanol may cause stress corrosion cracking?

Tide liquid clothes detergent

MSDS- For Tide

The test fluids selected for this investigation were Fuel C, CE10a, CE17a, and CE25a. Fuel C was
selected as the control since it is representative of premium gasoline and is a standard test fluid widely
used for studying material compatibility to gasoline. CE10a represents an aggressive formulation of E10,
and as such, it can be viewed as a baseline test fuel since E10 is currently available in many, if not most,
fuel dispensers. Dawn dish detergent contains as much as 5% Ethanol. Ethanol may cause stress crossion cracking. https://info.ornl.gov/sites/publications/files/Pub27766.pdf Photo from page 26.

 

[Papa Charlie]

^^^

What he said.

Cases were new. On the left were new, out of the package - cases on the right were washed in Tide liquid clothes detergent, double rinsed, and then dried in an oven @ 225°.

Both sets were out of the same package, annealed at the same time, for the same time.

I always anneal first, then size, then clean my brass to remove the case lube before priming and loading powder. I don't need the extra work of removing the chard lubricant from my cases. Also, I like to soften the metal before I move it back into position with the sizing dies. Everyone does it different but this is how I have chosen to do it.