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Performance/Weight 1.25" straight vs 1.25"x5.00" taper to 1.00" for F-Class

I weighed all my components and here is what I got:

Scope: 2lbs, 1.6 oz
Barrel: 8 lbs 0.3 oz chambered and threaded. Currently, I have a 30" 1.250" x 5.00" straight, taper to 1.00" barrel.
Stock: 5lbs 10 oz

Action: 3.5ish pounds??? I have a Bat M multiflat action. 338 lapua ejection port, right bolt, right eject. Im guessing here on weight since my action is at a smith to get another barrel chambered. The BAT M action starts around 48 oz so I added an extra 8 ounces for some leeway,

Based on these numbers, I am just north of 19 pounds, which gives me almost 2.5-3 lbs of weight to get to 22 pounds.

My question is...I want to get closer to this weight and I am running the weight estimations and it looks like I should have no problem going with a 1.25" straight barrel as the added weight should be around 2 lbs 6 oz chambered. Adding this weight, I should be just shy of 22 pounds. Does this seem about right? I know a lot of guys run straight 1.25" in F-Class but I never know if they are truly at 32" or maybe 31.5" to make weight.

And my other question...what are the advantages/disadvantages in F-Class with going with a straight tube versus a taper like the one I have already chambered up?
 
I don't know if you considered them, but a trigger, mirage shield, scope level, and scope rings can be several ounces.

I shoot tapered barrels exclusively, so I can't help with your comparison. My 284, with a Barnard, 32" tapered barrel (same taper as you), NXS, and PR&T lowboy stock needed 2 lbs of lead to get up to 21.5 lbs.

Hope that helps,
 
If you get too much weight forward your rifle might not ride the bags well, mine didn't at first. I'm shooting a straight 32", 1 1/4", 7mm barrel, Savage #12 F-Class stock and action, Nightforce BR scope and had to add about 1 and 1/2 pounds of shot to my butt stock to make weight and balance better.
I think that your action weighs more than mine though.
 
Busdriver,
I considered the trigger by adding almost a 1/2 pound to the average action weight of a Bat M action. This should take care of the trigger. The scope weight I mentioned includes the leveler and rings.

Swamp,
The balance could be a concern. When holding my complete rifle, the center of gravity is just forward of the action. Adding two pound of weight for the barrel will probably put the center of gravity somewhere 2-4 inches from the front of the stock, and my stock is a PR&T lowboy that is cut 2" short from the front. I might need some lead in the stock to balance it a little better.
 
My 7 Shehane balances about an inch in front of the action.
 
I have a B.A.T. "M" in .284 Shehane with a STRAIGHT 1.25" 31"(finished) barrel. It has a McMillan "MBR-Tooley" stock with a NightForce 12-42 "BR" Model.. It was weighed in at our TSRA Mid-Range at 17.12 pounds.. That ought to help you out.
 
swampshooter said:
Perfect balance would be right in front of the trigger guard if you can accomplish that and still make weight.
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Not necessarily correct. Dependent factors include: forearm length, recoil impulse, rest and bag setup, etc. That may be ideal for you, but certainly not for me. My .300 WSM balance point is 5½" forward of the action and tracks very well considering the recoil impulse. The forearm extends 17½" forward of the action.
 
Brian,
My Open rifle (6Dasher) has used 1.25" straights for the last three seasons. With a NF 12/42BR scope, heavy steel rings, 32oz action in a Shehane ST1000 stock I was at 18.5lbs. Finished barrel length is 30".
Using a Forster bit I created space in the butt for close to 4lbs of #7 birdshot to bring the weight up to max.

I use a Farley front rest and an Edgewood Gator in back. I experimented with different spacing between these to find the sweet spot. Steve is correct in that recoil, stock and rest variances all make this specific to your set-up.
 

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