PAC NOR featherweight model 70 fliers

[Nealm66]

Ya, those would be acceptable groups for most in a lightweight hunting rifle but I can see where it’s trying really hard to punch one hole. I really think the barrel is doing what it’s supposed to and if you can find the glitch it will be hard to tune at 100 because everything will look good. I’d bet money it’s not you either. Maybe you could borrow a chassis or something? I once fought something like this and it turned out to be a bad base screw. So many variables but in my opinion, it’s not you or the barrel from what I see in your groups. Good luck and please share once you figure it out

 

[Nealm66]

Maybe you could take the action to a gunsmith and have him true everything up and maybe check the spring like was mentioned. It’s such a fantastic looking rifle it definitely needs to shoot as good as it looks

 

[Markg308]

Ya, those would be acceptable groups for most in a lightweight hunting rifle but I can see where it’s trying really hard to punch one hole. I really think the barrel is doing what it’s supposed to and if you can find the glitch it will be hard to tune at 100 because everything will look good. I’d bet money it’s not you either. Maybe you could borrow a chassis or something? I once fought something like this and it turned out to be a bad base screw. So many variables but in my opinion, it’s not you or the barrel from what I see in your groups. Good luck and please share once you figure it out

Thanks I will. Funny u said that about the base as I was looking at one piece bases online earlier.

 

[Markg308]

Maybe you could take the action to a gunsmith and have him true everything up and maybe check the spring like was mentioned. It’s such a fantastic looking rifle it definitely needs to shoot as good as it looks

I called pacnor and they told me everything with the action was checked and was good. Kind of hard not to blame it on the action face not being squared up tho just because it wasn’t done

 

[Nealm66]

Seems like pacnor has a pretty good reputation and probably would have said something if it needed work

 

[Nealm66]

Was actually thinking about getting a threaded barrel from them for a friend’s 788. Could still happen, he’s still messing with ideas

 

[INTJ]

Trying to tune a featherweight contour barrel to 1/2 MOA is an exercise in frustration. Sub MOA is about all we can count on. That is no handicap for what this rifle is designed for, and that is to be lightweight and shoot big game at short to medium ranges. If you could hold it steady, a one MOA rifle has no issue cleanly taking animals at 600 yds.

Truing a hunting rifle action gains very little if anything at all. Accuracy is primarily in the barrel, and we don't pick any lightweight contour to build a 1/2 MOA rifle. Yes, sometimes we get lucky

If you really want to find the best this rifle will shoot, then do this:

1. Weight sort the brass and eliminate any outliers

2. Make that variance in case neck wall thickness doesn't exceed .0015"

3. Uniform primer pockets and deburr flash holes

4. Measure all the bullets base to ogive and sort into groups of .001". Only shoot these sorted bullets for groups

5. Weigh all powder charges to the kernel

6. When resizing brass, measure the shoulder of each case and make sure they are all within .0005 - .001"

7. Measure each bullet after seating and make sure they are within .001"

8. Shoot from a bench with stable front and rear rests. Don't pull the trigger until the crosshairs are dead steady. Be very consistent in how your grip, hold, and fire the rifle

The reloading steps I outlined may not help a hunting rifle, but they will eliminate a bunch of potential variables. The shooting method I mentioned is the best way to see what any rifle will do.

 

[Markg308]

Here’s the last seating test. Going to try a 1 piece base and if that doesn’t change things I give up. All 5 shot groups

 

[Markg308]

group number 2 and 3 are just a fuzz under an inch center to center for reference

 

[Dub]

Trying to tune a featherweight contour barrel to 1/2 MOA is an exercise in frustration. Sub MOA is about all we can count on. That is no handicap for what this trifle is designed for, and that is to be lightweight and shoot big game at short to medium ranges. If you could hold it steady, a one MOA rifle has no issue cleanly taking animals at 600 yds.

Truing a hunting rifle action gains very little if anything at all. Accuracy is primarily in the barrel, and we don't pick any lightweight contour to build a 1/2 MOA rifle. Yes, sometimes we get lucky

If you really want to find the best this rifle will shoot, then do this:

1. Weight sort the brass and eliminate any outliers

2. Make that variance in case neck wall thickness doesn't exceed .0015"

3. Uniform primer pockets and deburr flash holes

4. Measure all the bullets base to ogive and sort into groups of .001". Only shoot these sorted bullets for groups

5. Weigh all powder charges to the kernel

6. When resizing brass, measure the shoulder of each case and make sure they are all within .0005 - .001"

7. Measure each bullet after seating and make sure they are within .001"

8. Shoot from a bench with stable front and rear rests. Don't pull the trigger until the crosshairs are dead steady. Be very consistent in how your grip, hold, and fire the rifle

The reloading steps I outlined may not help a hunting rifle, but they will eliminate a bunch of potential variables. The shooting method I mentioned is the best way to see what any rifle will do.

This. You seem to be ignoring this and other posts.

 

[370bc]

I had a kimber Montana in 243 that was the toughest rifle to shoot for group that I have ever had. I spent $$ & time, chasing my tail. Sold it. I put a tikka in a manners PRS type stock, pencil thin pac nor 28” barrel w/bix n Andy trigger. A 5 y/o could get half moa after load development. For me, eliminating fliers came at the cost of choosing the correct overall design of the complete system. I missed a lot of coyotes in the field w/the Montana. Not so much with the 12 pound kit I have now.

 

[Nealm66]

In your beginning photo, there’s some 3 shot groups inside 1”. I’d go back to that load and do some cold bore and follow shot and see how it does if it were me. I wouldn’t worry too much about 5 shot groups.

 

[6MMsteve]

how is your trigger, can it drop on command or do you squeeze it for a time

 

[Markg308]

This. You seem to be ignoring this and other posts.

I have had and shot quite a few sporter weight hunting rifles that shot better than this one.

 

[Markg308]

how is your trigger, can it drop on command or do you squeeze it for a time

It’s a timney set at 2.5 pounds. Couldn’t get it any lower without the sear dropping when I closed the bolt

 

[Markg308]

In your beginning photo, there’s some 3 shot groups inside 1”. I’d go back to that load and do some cold bore and follow shot and see how it does if it were me. I wouldn’t worry too much about 5 shot groups.

The fliers are not the 4th and 5th shot they are completely random. I let the barrel cool anywhere between 2-5 min between shots depending on temperature

 

[Markg308]

I had a kimber Montana in 243 that was the toughest rifle to shoot for group that I have ever had. I spent $$ & time, chasing my tail. Sold it. I put a tikka in a manners PRS type stock, pencil thin pac nor 28” barrel w/bix n Andy trigger. A 5 y/o could get half moa after load development. For me, eliminating fliers came at the cost of choosing the correct overall design of the complete system. I missed a lot of coyotes in the field w/the Montana. Not so much with the 12 pound kit I have now.

Do you remember the worst groups it shot compared to the best?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

You have a lot of cards stacked against you and a 1 piece base aint the answer. A model 70, featherweight, shooting groups with a 308, that stock setup shooting from a bench, and all that time between shots, youre doing surprisingly well for what you have. You can take any load on that page, even mixing them up, and accomplish the mission that gun was designed to do. Sometimes you gotta back up and look at the whole forest.

 

[screaminweasil]

group number 2 and 3 are just a fuzz under an inch center to center for reference

Split the diff between 2 and 3 and shoot 2 (3-shot) groups................show us what that does. 5 shot groups with a featherweight is asking for trouble, despite 3 min between shots.

Or just load up #2 and rock on. Nice window there for .010" throat erosion out to #3 without issue (atleast indicated by your sample size of one)

I'd shoot a 3 shot group with 2 min between shots. Then shoot another after letting cool for 10 min.

 

[Markg308]

Split the diff between 2 and 3 and shoot 2 (3-shot) groups................show us what that does. 5 shot groups with a featherweight is asking for trouble, despite 3 min between shots.

Or just load up #2 and rock on. Nice window there for .010" throat erosion out to #3 without issue (atleast indicated by your sample size of one)

I'd shoot a 3 shot group with 2 min between shots. Then shoot another after letting cool for 10 min.

I’ll do it