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Opening ADL to BDL for PTG bottom Metal

Ok like all my posts, I’m not a gunsmith. My dad is very, very talented with wood working. Think custom cabinet making. Is this possible? I don’t know so I am asking what do you think? Is it easy / possible?

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That’s the stock I own that I seeing if my dad can Inlet for PTG bottom metal.
 
My dad has a drill press will that work? We have the PTG bottom metal on hand. We were also going to Inlet for pillar bedding.
 
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Which PT&G bottom metal? Very easily done with a sharp chisel and gouge if the bottom metal is BDL style. You can enlarge the guard screw holes for pillars with a hand drill if you're careful and have a bit of skill using hand tools.
 
Which PT&G bottom metal? Very easily done with a sharp chisel and gouge if the bottom metal is BDL style. You can enlarge the guard screw holes for pillars with a hand drill if you're careful and have a bit of skill using hand tools.

It’s the M5 Stealth. I’m doing a cross between a heavy hunting rifle / light long range rifle. This is the style rifle I’m going for but with a detachable box mag.

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This can still be done with hand tools provided the hands doing the work are skilled hands. It will just take a bit longer. It is your rifle, and thus your choice of bottom metal, but if it was me I'd be using H-S Precision bottom metal which uses detachable magazines. The H-S would not protrude below the bottom as much as the M5 with a 5 or 10rd magazine will. I may use a vertical mill to do some pre-inletting on a wood blank, but that's all. Hand fit, shape and finish after that. There's a thread on the Main Message Board about cost which has morphed a bit to double guns, both rifles and shotguns. Hand fitting of the action parts in many/most of those old doubles and a lot of double rifle stocks were/are made one at a time by hand with the help of power hand tools, sometimes. Many custom rifles made today still are made with hand fit, shaped and finished wood stocks. Oh! And checked by hand, too. Not everything 'falls' off a machine, finished and ready to use, although many think it should, not if you want true 'custom'.
 
My dad is definitely skilled with wood working. I’m not saying that because he’s my dad. He’s built some impressive furniture and has refinished some rifle stocks. He asked me to post on here to see your guys opinions to make sure we weren’t wasting our time. Thanks everyone for the help!
 
I just saw this. OF COURSE you can do it. The job is already half done with that big hole for the blind mag. The tricky part is on the bottom of the stock. I make my pillar holes with a 15mm bit, which is just a hair bigger than my pillars. The PT&G bottom metal is 17.75mm wide at the rear and 18.2 at the front. There's not a lot of wiggle room when you drill for your pillar holes. I'd get the bottom metal so you can use it for the layout on the bottom of your stock. Work from your bottom, not from your top.
Measured just for you, double checked.IMG_1595.JPG
 
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There are BUNCHES of us out here who - aren't pro's, aren't genius's, don't own a mill, -- and do a fine job of projects like you are contemplating.

Go slow, and be careful. Use your dad's skill and advice (and tools), and you will get a great sense of satisfaction in doing a good job. jd
 
The lay-out for the job is the important part. A set of snug fitting guide pins, one for the front screw hole and one for the rear, will help keep things lined-up. Need to be long pins, so the new trigger guard assembly can be slid on them. The advantages of having machine tools to make what you want when you want it! Additional; a couple of long 1/4" x 28 bolts with the heads cut off will do in a pinch. A 'snug fit' between pin and hole (in the stock) would be best, but not always available.
 
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The lay-out for the job is the important part. A set of snug fitting guide pins, one for the front screw hole and one for the rear, will help keep things lined-up. Need to be long pins, so the new trigger guard assembly can be slid on them. The advantages of having machine tools to make what you want when you want it! Additional; a couple of long 1/4" x 28 bolts with the heads cut off will do in a pinch. A 'snug fit' between pin and hole (in the stock) would be best, but not always available.

He could wrap tape around those screws to tighten up the fit
 
I've seen your tracks in my stock building thread. Think about making a template for the bottom metal and the simple jig to clamp your stock into. Look at page three. Just make the template tight to the bottom metal. Cutting the template allows you to use a router with a bearing bit. It only takes about an hour to make the template.
 

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I've seen your tracks in my stock building thread. Think about making a template for the bottom metal and the simple jig to clamp your stock into. Look at page three. Just make the template tight to the bottom metal. Cutting the template allows you to use a router with a bearing bit. It only takes about an hour to make the template.

Hey joshb I wouldn’t be in this predicament if you would just give me one of your stocks! ;):D

Now you’re forcing me to spend time with my dad! Lol

Last question. What do you think the heaviest weight barrel is that I can open this up for?? I was thinking Shilen light varmint as the heaviest. Thanks guys for all your help.


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I’m worried towards the end is not enough meat.
 
I just got my duplicator. You'll have to wait till it's up and running before I start giving out "free" stocks.:rolleyes: Pm me in a month.;)
I think the light varmint will work. I use a few different profiles, depending on the weight I want. Most boomers get MTU or heavy varmint. The lighter cartridges get Remington varmint, light varmint, Palma or heavy Palma. I have one straight 1.25" in 6br on a Bat MB but I don't shoot it much. Please remember that I don't compete. I'm only restricted by my whims.
 

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