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No more scrubbing! (carbon remover)

Since this thread as moved in this direction, I'll add my .02. Nobody suggested that you put oil on your bullets, but I do believe it is important for the bullet to ride on "something" for the first couple of shots until some carbon has built up in the bore. I doubt that it matters much what you use whether it be Rem oil, lock-eze, moly or something else. The point being that clean, bare metal on clean bare metal can't have a positive effect. If this thought process is nothing but snake oil, I know I still sleep better at night knowing that the last patch down the bore of all my rifles is with colloidal graphite.
I hoe this helps,

Lloyd
On a good barrel, I like clenz-oil with the excess patched out.
 
what's so difficult about the process that shooters need a way to magically soak it away?
I think it's due to the various claims/statements that an abrasive bore cleaner will/can damage the barrel. And, there are those pics from Bartlein.
 
I think it's due to the various claims/statements that an abrasive bore cleaner will/can damage the barrel. And, there are those pics from Bartlein.
I watched a shooter "clean" a barrel once, after a local match.
After bragging about JB and a "spotless bore", he proceeded to chuck a pistol rod into a portable drill, covered a bronze brush with JB, and sawed away. Of course, he said he would never waste the money on a bore scope.
In full disclosure, I have used JB when my borescope tells me for over a decade, and probably for another decade before I bought my first bore scope.
I think the moral is how much and HOW you clean with the proper abrasive.
 
Regarding Bore Cleaners: There are some demonstrations on YouTube of folks comparing one cleaner to the other. Pretty interesting. Some of the cleaners folks swear by, even worship don't really cut it. Much of life is based on what one believes and then it becomes true.

Some say the abrasive in Rem Clean is the same or smaller than JB. Well, I ruined one of my best RF barrels using Rem Clean in it. It just stopped shooting competitively, just stopped shooting, never to shoot well again. It wasn't worn out before the RemClean.
 
Having used JB on a brush for a couple of decades to remove carbon at the end of the neck and throat...I'm at a loss as to what's so difficult about the process that shooters need a way to magically soak it away???

...and don't forget the value part of it. That tub of JB will probably outlast $1000 worth of liquid cleaners. The tub I'm using is about ten years old and it works every time!
 
I read these threads on carbon. What did we do before we had/knew about carbon? Wasn’t much to talk about. What did we blame accuracy issues on before, lol? Never operator error always the gun or barrels at fault.
 
Nothing cleans a suppressor like an ultrasound cleaner.

Ask if you want details. Mine holds about four gallons, and cost less than $200.

It is a Vevor. They make all manner of models.

It has six ultrasound transducers and a heater. What a deal? I'm a mechanical engineer, and I think this is a truly impressive machine.

I did the "aluminum foil test." Put a sheet of foil on the thing for 30 seconds. Are there lots of holes in it? Yes? Itbe good to go.
Yes even the inexpensive Harbor Freight ultrasound cleans suppressor tube and cones to spotless SS after a 300-400 round day of PD'n

Squirt of Dawn or Lemishine detergent and a tablespoon of creme of tartar in the basin of hot water makes everything squeaky clean in about 15 minutes. Black carbon pours off the parts immediately upon turning it on.
 
I read these threads on carbon. What did we do before we had/knew about carbon? Wasn’t much to talk about. What did we blame accuracy issues on before, lol? Never operator error always the gun or barrels at fault.
I was there and I can tell you what we did. We cleaned our barrel with Hoppe's 9 and a bronze brush frequently. As far as I can remember, rifles shot to POI, first shot, no need to fire "fouling" shots. Rifles maintained POI for the most part.

I had uncles, former Marines, who know how to shoot and were very good field shooters. Somehow, they managed to shoot this well with the aforementioned cleaning regime.
 
Regarding Bore Cleaners: There are some demonstrations on YouTube of folks comparing one cleaner to the other. Pretty interesting. Some of the cleaners folks swear by, even worship don't really cut it. Much of life is based on what one believes and then it becomes true.

Some say the abrasive in Rem Clean is the same or smaller than JB. Well, I ruined one of my best RF barrels using Rem Clean in it. It just stopped shooting competitively, just stopped shooting, never to shoot well again. It wasn't worn out before the RemClean.
The question I always have when I read these threads about cleaning a rifle is - "what is your criteria?"

If it is some specific visual appearance of the barrel that is one thing. But then I wonder what the translation to performance on target is.

Personally, I prefer a cleaning process that results in consistent performance on target. How do I know? The target tells me so. Over the years of a lot of shooting and cleaning rifles, I discovered that a simple process with a mild gun solvent and bronze brush if used frequently maintains performance to my standards.
 
Having used JB on a brush for a couple of decades to remove carbon at the end of the neck and throat...I'm at a loss as to what's so difficult about the process that shooters need a way to magically soak it away???

Because of fear over what is in the stuff? JB is a just binder paste loaded with pumice. ( fused silica) and not diamond grit or silica carbides etc, which are harder than steel. Pumice is the same stuff that they put in some toothpastes and turtle wax for your 911 Porsche!! Pumice is softer than steel but harder than carbon and copper so it scrapes them off the steel. It wont hurt steel, all it can do is make it shiny but only with alot of elbow work. That is what my borescope shows me!
I bet you can brush your teeth with grey JB with no ill effects. Just be easy on your lead fillings.
 
I wonder if grey is this and red is pumice? My barrel making company friends told me pumice
The red is rouge. Rouge a red compound that is often used as the final/finest polish for gold. Of course, gold is much softer than stainless.
 
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GM top engine cleaner from the 70's cleans carbon better than anything i have tried. I have half a can left and will miss it when it is gone. Whatever chemicals are in it is not in the modern stuff available now. The new stuff works as good as any of the over the counter stuff now.

Some of the better stuff available are Yamaha Ring free.
 
GM top engine cleaner from the 70's cleans carbon better than anything i have tried. I have half a can left and will miss it when it is gone. Whatever chemicals are in it is not in the modern stuff available now. The new stuff works as good as any of the over the counter stuff now.

Some of the better stuff available are Yamaha Ring free.
bit it wont get rid of copper right? so why not just use soemething like JB that does it all at once? If you got carbon you got copper
 

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