New 22-250. Looking for a place to start

[Texas10]

Vmax and Zmax are not the same bullets. I have found that unlike the Vmax, the Zmax varies quite a bit in weight. If you've already bought a quantity, be prepared to sort by weight into groups.

 

[jimmymac]

63 grain Sierra SMP bullets and RL-15 shoot great out of my 14 twist so don't discount this bullet. Sierra put this together with a slow twist in mind. Low BC bullet, but groups are small and consistent. I won't hunt deer with a 22-250, but if I did...

At the other end of the spectrum, 40 grain Z-max/V-max are outstanding with more than one powder. With a big dose of CFE 223 I'm looking at an honest 4300 FPS with an extreme spread of 27 FPS. Accuracy is all I could ever hope for with a factory gun. I've also had excellent results with Ramshot TAC and RL-15 with this bullet, so pick your poison.

I've found no difference in accuracy whether I'm shooting V-max or Z-max so I typically go with the cheaper option when it goes on sale. I've never taken the time to weight sort my .224 bullets like Tex did, so all I have to go by are my targets. Maybe I'll give that a try though and see if there is a difference. I have a large supply of each so it will be easy to determine if one shows more deviation than the other. FWIW, Hornady tech support tells me the bullets are the same with the exception of the tip color.

 

[JLT]

50grn v-max does great for me with Varget. Not sure on a deer bullet yet, im still working on that.

Try the 62 gr. Barnes for deer.

 

[TheOtherZilla]

I had 2 788's, both lived on H380 and a 52 Sierra match HPBT

 

[long40shot]

Try the 62 gr. Barnes for deer.

Maybe on the next barrel. But for now I'm stuck with a 1-14 twist.

 

[C.E.Smith043]

C.E. I just cleaned and re-scoped a family members old model 700 .243. It had that forend speed bump. First time I ever saw it, was that Remington's attempt at a cheap bedding job? Also to adjust those old triggers, what's the best product to remove the glue that sets the adjustment screws. Thanks

I honestly have no idea why Remington put the speed bump in the forends of those stocks matter fact I don't have any idea why Remington does a lot of things they do seems like they're always trying to reinvent the wheel. As far as cleaning the glue out of the triggers I've always just used a dental pick and some solvent

 

[JLT]

Maybe on the next barrel. But for now I'm stuck with a 1-14 twist.

Oops - yeah, that'll never work in a 1:14.

 

[M-61]

38gr. of H380 loaded in PMC small rifle primer brass. 52gr Sierra's MK. Always worked to be the most accurate for me in my rifle.

 

[Mark W]

The fore end support or speed bump is there because the factory bedding doesn't offer enough support to hold the action and a free floated barrel. I have a Rem 700 VLS that shoots just fine with factory fore end support intact. Take it out without proper pillar bedding job and it just might shoot worse.

 

[K22]

Heres where i would start, sand down the speed bump in the forend if it has it, bed it, adjust trigger. Then get a pound of IMR 4064 and 52gr Sierra MatchKings. If this doesnt shoot, throw the gun away.

I've owned a bunch of Rem 700 and Model 7's and except for the varmint heavy barreled rifle they all had those 'speed bumps' you refer to. None of them would shoot very well until I removed them and free floated the barrel. Some required pillar bedding the junk stock but eventually I got them all to shoot.

 

[C.E.Smith043]

I've owned a bunch of Rem 700 and Model 7's and except for the varmint heavy barreled rifle they all had those 'speed bumps' you refer to. None of them would shoot very well until I removed them and free floated the barrel. Some required pillar bedding the junk stock but eventually I got them all to shoot.

I agree, my latest journey was a LVSF in 223. Once i did the work i mentioned that thing was a shooter beyond belief, but right out of the box it was sadly disappointing.

 

[snert]

Sierra 52 hp over IMR 4064. I don't recommend this caliber for use with harvesting a whitetail but that is just my opinion. If I absolutely had to use it for deer I would be looking at the Barnes bullets. I have had very good luck in my hunting rifles with the Barnes tsx/ttsx.

Nick

My 22-250's have all shot well with the Sierra Spitzer in 55 grain, or the Speer Spitzer in 55 grain. I shoot 55 grain Vmax in it now. I use Federal match primers, Lapua brass and H380 for 3700 fps. I also use Varget. USE A MANUAL.

I have shot a lot of late summer culled deer (hair not thick yet) under favorable circumstances (relaxed deer feeding broadside, usually at night) I have head shot them and chest shot them with a 55 gain vmax. Had ONE run 40 yards, The rest were either DRT or ran a hop or two in a cricle before dying right there. Small hole in, then busted ribs shrapnel thru chest turning it to mush, big hole thru other side ribs and usually bullet and rib parts exit. It is like they swallowed a grenade. With all that, I do not recommend the 22-250 for deer hunting. Prefer a bit more bullet and room for error.

FWIW I have tried the BArnes TTSX in 224 on deer. Not impressed. Shoots thru, doesn't carry enough energy to bust bones and drop them well, not as accurate as vmax and every deer ran, (died) but small holes both sides. I do like it when it is bigger though...at least 6,, 80 grain and LOVE the 30 caliber 130.

Buy a cheap deer hunting rifle in a bigger caliber. Better bullets available for the purpose. Again, that is said from a guy who has shot a pile of culls with a 22-250 and Swift.

 

[snert]

C.E. I just cleaned and re-scoped a family members old model 700 .243. It had that forend speed bump. First time I ever saw it, was that Remington's attempt at a cheap bedding job? Also to adjust those old triggers, what's the best product to remove the glue that sets the adjustment screws. Thanks

just remove the stuff on the screw with a screwdriver. The speed bump can e taken out with a file from Brownells. Bed it, take out the bump to float that barrel, then FINISH the inside of the wood with a sealer. Inside the action cut out, the forearm and under the buttplate.

 

[Homerange]

When I got my Model 7 in .223 I researched a lot looking for best advice on the Remington stock barrel hump. At that time general advice was to leave it there unless you want to take on a bedding job and that might not even get it shooting as well as it was.
Mine shot ~1/2" with Remington 50 gr Corelok factory loads and that was good enough I thought for an 18 1/2" barrel.
Before long I was building reloads to improve on that down to ~3/8" where this rifle remains to this day.
Barrel groove has never been touched and from the info I've been able to find the stock pressure onto the barrel is ~7lbs.....and that I check from time to time hasn't weakened.

Acquired sometime later is another Model 7 in 6mm Rem that has been bedded and the barrel groove lump removed and to date I've yet to get this 6mm near 1/2", 1" is more like it. Adding a lump of leather under the barrel has improved it some.
Some of the problem will be these are built on a ordinary 308 length short action with mag length the same which is no way optimum for 6mm Rem.

Years ago a mate bought a new Model 7 in 308 and we sighted it in.....as normal, a couple of shots close up to get it on paper and then back to 100yds. The 3rd and 4th shots this rifle had ever fired outside the factory were touching....Remington 150 gr Corelok.

Another mate had the chance to find a 223 Model 7 that shot well and with a little load development took it to the NZ Nationals and shot 2nd in sporter class.

It is my firm opinion that removing the hump in Remington stocks is a mistake. I'll stick my neck out and call it BS.


Disclaimer:
I have other rifles that aren't Remington, in fact the best shooting rifles we (son and I) have are Sako and Tikka with my Model 7 223 a close 3rd.

 

[jimmymac]

It is my firm opinion that removing the hump in Remington stocks is a mistake. I'll stick my neck out and call it BS.

Without fail, every factory rifle I've had floated and bedded either shot the same as it did prior to relieving the fore end or it shot better. Never worse, but my sample size is small. I'm only talking about a half dozen guns, so I'd be interested in hearing others experiences in regards to this.

In general, it's hard to go wrong with a free float, bed and trigger job IMO. Those three things have saved the day on more than one occasion for me. Sometimes the results have been so dramatic that the gun went from the outhouse to the penthouse. Other times, it didn't make a hill of beans difference because the problem was elsewhere.

If I was the OP, I'd shoot the gun first and see how it performs before performing surgery. There is always time for remedial action. Easier to remove material than put it back!

 

[Ktarr72590]

Without fail, every factory rifle I've had floated and bedded either shot the same as it did prior to relieving the fore end or it shot better. Never worse, but my sample size is small. I'm only talking about a half dozen guns, so I'd be interested in hearing others experiences in regards to this.

In general, it's hard to go wrong with a free float, bed and trigger job IMO. Those three things have saved the day on more than one occasion for me. Sometimes the results have been so dramatic that the gun went from the outhouse to the penthouse. Other times, it didn't make a hill of beans difference because the problem was elsewhere.

If I was the OP, I'd shoot the gun first and see how it performs before performing surgery. There is always time for remedial action. Easier to remove material than put it back!

I don't plan on doing anything til after it's been shot. I don't have all the components to reload for it yet so I was just looking for a basis to go off of. All the guns I own are unmodified asides from and aftermarket buttstock on my 760 gamemaster, and they all shoot quite well. So I plan on shooting the factory loads I have, ordering some bullets and finding some more powder and having fun.

 

[K22]

t is my firm opinion that removing the hump in Remington stocks is a mistake. I'll stick my neck out and call it BS.

I don't want to get into a pissing contest and I do not dispute your results. My results were different with two Rem Model 7's and three Rem Model 700. Both Browning and Tikka free float their barrels. A custom gun maker shoots at my club. He specializes in light weight big game rifles and all his rifles are free floated. True he pillar beds them but he told me that pressure points at the end of the stock is an obsolete technology. Still it makes sense on a new rifle to test it first before you make any modifications. But if you can't get to shoot removing those "speed bumps" might solve the problem. It did for me but I did have to pillar bed one of the 700's to get it to shoot well after I removed the speed bumps.

One of the point, the Bell and Carlson Model 7 stocks are all free floated.

 

[Homerange]

I don't want to get into a pissing contest and I do not dispute your results. My results were different with two Rem Model 7's and three Rem Model 700. Both Browning and Tikka free float their barrels. A custom gun maker shoots at my club. He specializes in light weight big game rifles and all his rifles are free floated. True he pillar beds them but he told me that pressure points at the end of the stock is an obsolete technology. Still it makes sense on a new rifle to test it first before you make any modifications. But if you can't get to shoot removing those "speed bumps" might solve the problem. It did for me but I did have to pillar bed one of the 700's to get it to shoot well after I removed the speed bumps.

One of the point, the Bell and Carlson Model 7 stocks are all free floated.

Nor do I, thanks.
That we can all share our experience and that can help some is great, others like me that would not rather fiddle with a factory rifle are quite content finding what a seeming rogue rifle likes to shoot that is good enough for hunting needs.

 

[Ktarr72590]

Well I finally got to shoot my rifle. I have to say with these loads I have no complaints what so ever! Federal American eagle 50 gr hollow points. My range is about ~80 yds and the shots were touching holes after the first adjustment and 2 rounds fired. My last 3 rounds to be secure with my zero were all the same elevation but my bondage drifted the 2nd and 3rd shot from me pulling the shots. Even with that, I was still sub moa. For the remainder of the box im perfectly ok with not realoading yet haha.

 

[tn noshooter]

I don't really recommend to deer hunt with it but I have 2 small kids and the only gun I owned at the time with low recoil was a savage MDL 12 22-250 so we carried it loaded with Sierra 55 gr BlitzeKing over H414 and all I can say is I was impressed .Since then they have shot 8 whitetail with it ranging from does to a large 8 point and none have went more than 15 yards most fell in there tracks