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Neolube#2

I have some. I plan on testing it this winter. I am interested to hear what others think as well.
 
I loaded up 25 rounds of 338LM a couple days ago and used Neolube #2 to coat both the inside of the case mouths along with a bit on the bullet's bearing surfaces before charging.The stuff dries almost immediately and I did notice less bullet seating pressure(LE Wilson seating die and K&M arbor press).Not sure if my group shooting will show any difference but thought I'd give it a whirl just for the hell of it.Stuff is fairly expensive,a 2 oz. bottle was $22.95 and with sales tax and shipping($12.00 to ship a 2 oz. bottle!)I think it came to around $38.00.The bottle would probably do a 1000+ cases though,and with what it costs to load 300 gr. Bergers in front of 88.5 grs. of H1000 a few more cents per round won't break the bank...and it may even improve my shooting(I'll try anything:D).
 
Does anyone use this stuff for lube during reloading?
This stuff has been around for a while and was almost immediately picked up for use in loading since many of us were also aerospace/defense.

Graphite, Moly, Diatomaceous earth, tungsten disulfide, etc., etc., have all been run as neck lube for decades.

Before this became commercially available, we mixed our own.

If you start using anything in the necks or on the bullets to control friction, just remember that seating forces and bullet release forces are the product of the pressure from the case neck times the friction coefficient (in basic terms). The reality is much more complicated, but for now let me say that with any change to the neck friction comes a responsibility to tune the system to include that change.
 
Neolube has been around since at least the 80s when I was using it on valve caps in the nuke plant on submarines. (And probably a whole lot longer than that). Colloidal graphite in isopropyl alcohol
My son is going through the nuke program now and when he was home to visit and we were going over my reloading routine he said something about them having this badass dry lube for various components, and when I produced a bottle of Neolube he said "Yep, we use that stuff alot"
 
I mix powdered molybdenum with 90% alcohol and apply it to the inside of the cartridge necks before resizing with a mandril and before seating a bullet. The alcohol flashes off very quickly leaving a coating of moly.

 
I mix powdered molybdenum with 90% alcohol and apply it to the inside of the cartridge necks before resizing with a mandril and before seating a bullet. The alcohol flashes off very quickly leaving a coating of moly.

What ratios do you use, or does it matter all that much? I'm guessing the alcohol will flash off regardless of how much is used...but wondering if there is an optimal mixture.
 
https://www.sisweb.com/referenc/msds/neolube2.pdf

Don't try to add too much.
Here is the MSDS that shows you by weight their rough contents for the commercial stuff.
Water content in the alcohol has an effect, as does the quality of the graphite.

Don't worry about those other ingredients, just try to roughly copy their graphite/solvent ratio as a starting point.
Try for a thickness of about 5 microns (0.0002") at most on a surface when you play with your mixture.
I use glass microscope slides for this purpose, but any high quality parallel surface that allows you to get a good micrometer reading will work.
 
Neolube has been around for a long time as a dry lube for capped valves. I was a nuke in the 70’s it was stationed at areas where valves were operated.
 
I've been using it since 2007, or there abouts. After my bbl. is squeaky clean, I run a patch through the bore with it. First shot is always within the group, just a little slower.

Lloyd
 
I've been using it since 2007, or there abouts. After my bbl. is squeaky clean, I run a patch through the bore with it. First shot is always within the group, just a little slower.

Lloyd
I'm with Lloyd, been using it in my barrels for a couple years now. So far, I'm impressed. I tried it in the necks of brass applied with a qtip. Some were squeaky clean, others fouled, different tension. While the seating force was noticeable smoother, the target said different.
 
I asked this same question on another forum, some of the guys just use the Hornady 1 shot case lube to do the same thing, applied with a q tip, and its much cheaper in price!

I use this because it is not in an aerosol can and use it in the same manner.

Lyman.jpg
 

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