Need more shoulder bump. Special shell holder?

[Dimner]

I'm currently waiting for the cheapest shell holder I could find to be delivered. I'm gonna try the idea that NorCalMikie mentioned, using a drill press and sandpaper/stone. I've done them very crudely before on the side of a grinding wheel, and although it worked, the face of the shell holder wasn't square. I think without a lathe or mill, the drill press is my best bet. I agree with you guys, I'm surprised someone doesn't offer minus shell holders! (Somebody wanna get on this? Lol)

Id just use a coarse sharpening stone. As long as it is not a waterstone, it will be flat.

Also, an easy method would be using spray adhesive and a piece of 150 or 220 grit sand paper on a flat surface. Plate glass or a spare piece of thick flooring tile, or the cast iron table of a table saw or some other tool. You can check your progress by using a black sharpie on the metal that is being sanded off. Use goo gone to clean up the spray adhesive.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Someday I’m going to do this to make a in between size set of competition shell holders.

 

[Webster]

You explained it well. From my experience the amount of bump you need changes with the brass so that is why i use paper shims. It's not a constant. Maybe that's just my set up that causes this to happen. Every thing I use is old. But it works for me. Then when I'm done sizing I always have a few that did not get pushed back enough so that's when I use the Redding Body die to move it just enough to be where I want it.

Just thinking about it. The distance from the place that the cartridge head sits on as well as the top of the shell holder contol the amount of bump you get. But we can only sand or machine the top of the shell holder or the die. Don't kow why everyone has problems sizing brass. I have been reloading since 1970 without a problem.

 

[Steve Donlon]

Just thinking about it. The distance from the place that the cartridge head sits on as well as the top of the shell holder contol the amount of bump you get. But we can only sand or machine the top of the shell holder or the die. Don't kow why everyone has problems sizing brass. I have been reloading since 1970 without a problem.

It's a curse amigo. I use Hornady, Sig, Peterson and Lapua brass in my 6.5 Creedmoor rifle. They are all a little different in some ways. I know they should all size the same but they don't. So I use a paper shim to get the bump I need.

 

[sdeeter19555]

I had this on a 300wby, using RCBS dies and a Lyman Crusher II. Ended up sanding down a shell holder. Supposedly you can contact RCBS and they will make you a custom die from your fired case.

For my instance, it was literally a few thousandth to make or break fitting the chamber on a Mark V.

 

[cheek9075]

48 posts, 3 pages, Saturday to Monday, and some just don't get the Competition Set.
Sometimes you have to jostle folks to get them to understand.
Minus in one place means plus in another. Less means more
This is NOT a NEW misunderstanding.

BTW, has anyone EVER had a Redding Body Die that you could not get enough bump?

Yes 3 sets of redding. 6ppc, 280ai, and 260ai.

 

[nakneker]

You reload long enough there’s a chance you’ll run into the situation of not being able to get the bump you need with your die/shell holder combo. The easiest thing for me has always been to send them to off to get them shortened a bit. There’s a half dozen dies in those pics that have been sent off to be shortened. That’s easier for me than grinding shell holders or whatever the method would be, requires a bit more patience….. I usually have the dies back in a couple weeks and just put the project on hold until they come back.

 

[bozo699]

Yes 3 sets of redding. 6ppc, 280ai, and 260ai.

Why do you have separate Redding comp shell holders for .260 AI and .280AI?
Wayne

 

[cheek9075]

Why do you have separate Redding comp shell holders for .260 AI and .280AI?
Wayne

I don't. I have a cut down shell holder for the 260 and 280. Another one cut down for the 6ppc.

 

[bozo699]

I don't. I have a cut down shell holder for the 260 and 280. Another one cut down for the 6ppc.

Nice, thank you for clarifying for me.
Wayne

 

[6MMsteve]

you can also take some material off the bottom of the sizing die, there is a large chamfer on all sizing dies that does nothing, I crudely nipped some off a sizing die if u had a lathe or someone u know has one u can take .020 off easy and u would never know, but I used a grinder and went to town and it works. there is a lot of room on the base of a sizer to remove stock that does nothing

 

[Wild Bill IV]

When i see

One Line- They are using a Co-Ax Reloading Press.

Never used one, but i have to wonder if the press may be the issue?

I would be very careful in your assumption!!! I never bottom out Bonanza or Foster FL dies in my Bonanza co-ax press!!! The gap between the base of the dies and JAWS is around 0.010 to 0.020 with 0.002 BUMP!!! This is the free floating system!!! The dies come to the case, not the case coming to the dies in a rigid system!!! I never have any run out!! And if you assume the coax is a bad press, why do US Special Forces, US Olympic shooting teams, and some US international shooting teams use Foster co-ax presses almost exclusively?

 

[Wild Bill IV]

If you have adjusted the die down 1/8-1/4 turn(instructions) from touching the shell holder, and the case will not chamber properly (case is in saami length). It's a chamber or die problem (possibly both, buy a lotto draw) in factory rifles. Verify chamber, than call Forster. I don't mix brands of die/shell holders. A measure able difference should be seen with 1/8 turn down die adjustments from touching the shell holder.

Be careful with that advice!!! If you read the Forster instruction, you never turn down after firm contact with shell holders or JAWS!!! JAWS CAN BE BROKEN OR DAMAGED BY CONTINUING DOWNWARD ADJUSTMENT!! The instructions state to remove the recap rod assembly!! Screw the die down to light contact at full up press position!! Tighten lock ring! Check case in chamber after sizing a case!!! Fine tune adjust!!!! Then reinstall the rod assembly and adjust stem until the expander is even with bleeder hole!!!

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Why is this complicated? A Redding comp she'll holder marked as a Zero is theoretically the same as any standard shell holder and the others are thicker and will give LESS bump than the zero. Easy to check. Just measure from top of the holder to where the cartridge sets.
I prefer taking material from the bottom of the die but either way works as would deepening the chamber.
I would also say this is rarely the smith's fault. He's working to a standard, that being the go headspace gauge. If the bolt closes on a go but not on a no go, he did his part in that regard. In the real world, everything has tolerances, including hs gauges and dies. I started shooting for a couple of thou OVER a go gauge a few years back and that helped alleviate this issue a lot and is still safely within spec. Sometimes we are our own worst enemy by trying to be perfect. This is a good example. Just because I can, doesn't always mean I shoul do something.

 

[Wild Bill IV]

I have used my coax, and my T7. Even when the die is screwed all the way down on both, the sized piece of brass can’t be chambered, using finger pressure in my bolt carrier group, in the upper. Now that I think about it, every time I needed to grind down a shell holder, it was using Forster dies.

If all else fails, read the instructions!!! Read the section on FINE TUNING THE SIZING DIE!!

Remove the decapping-expander assembly! With the shell holder in the highest point, turn the die down until it contacts the shell holder!!! CONTACT IS THE KEY WORD meaning touches the shell holder!! Size a case and check bolt closure!! Adjust until the bolt closes and tighten the lock ring!!

Reinstall the D/EX assembly making sure the expander is even with the hole in the die threads.

A little advice, make sure the expander is in the proper position!!! A little too high will pull the shoulder back up slightly!!! TOO HIGH WILL CRUSH THE CASE NECK!!!

NEVER ADJUST PAST FIRM CONTACT OR YOU COULD DAMAGE OR EVEN BREAK THE JAWS IN A BONANZA OR FORSTER PRESS!!!

BILL!!

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

If all else fails, read the instructions!!! Read the section on FINE TUNING THE SIZING DIE!!

Remove the decapping-expander assembly! With the shell holder in the highest point, turn the die down until it contacts the shell holder!!! CONTACT IS THE KEY WORD meaning touches the shell holder!! Size a case and check bolt closure!! Adjust until the bolt closes and tighten the lock ring!!

Reinstall the D/EX assembly making sure the expander is even with the hole in the die threads.

A little advice, make sure the expander is in the proper position!!! A little too high will pull the shoulder back up slightly!!! TOO HIGH WILL CRUSH THE CASE NECK!!!

NEVER ADJUST PAST FIRM CONTACT OR YOU COULD DAMAGE OR EVEN BREAK THE JAWS IN A BONANZA OR FORSTER PRESS!!!

BILL!!

For the most part, I agree with ya. I recently bought a very nice Whidden die and I did basically what you describe but it bumped the shoulder way too much, still....about .015! Not a thing wrong with the die or chamber but he simply made his dies that way and I'm glad he did. I just wish I had known first. Lol! It's a nice die and works wonderfully once set. I trashed a couple of pieces of brass because I assumed it was like most and like you describe but his was not. Not knocking it whatsoever. Just giving a heads up in this regard more than anything, to be cautious when you first go about getting it set. It's one example that WILL size way too much your way..which has been my way too, for a long time. Just don't assume anything is all. Overall, your advice is good and thanks for your post.

 

[209jones]

Would be beneficial for Redding to put a diagram next to their competition shellholder listing that explained where the height difference they are talking about actually is on their shellholders, along with the desc they currently use. But, that would be simple.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Would be beneficial for Redding to put a diagram next to their competition shellholder listing that explained where the height difference they are talking about actually is on their shellholders, along with the desc they currently use. But, that would be simple.

Yes, a pic would probably save them some headache and returns. It's really simple though. I have to wonder if this is another example of incorrect internet info..essentially a rumor, that got passed along until some people actually believed it, reposted it...etc.

 

[bozo699]

If all else fails, read the instructions!!! Read the section on FINE TUNING THE SIZING DIE!!

Remove the decapping-expander assembly! With the shell holder in the highest point, turn the die down until it contacts the shell holder!!! CONTACT IS THE KEY WORD meaning touches the shell holder!! Size a case and check bolt closure!! Adjust until the bolt closes and tighten the lock ring!!

Reinstall the D/EX assembly making sure the expander is even with the hole in the die threads.

A little advice, make sure the expander is in the proper position!!! A little too high will pull the shoulder back up slightly!!! TOO HIGH WILL CRUSH THE CASE NECK!!!

NEVER ADJUST PAST FIRM CONTACT OR YOU COULD DAMAGE OR EVEN BREAK THE JAWS IN A BONANZA OR FORSTER PRESS!!!

BILL!!

If you go back about 95 posts you will find he could not adjust it to bump the shoulder …. Not an uncommon problem.
Wayne

 

[Wild Bill IV]

If you go back about 95 posts you will find he could not adjust it to bump the shoulder …. Not an uncommon problem.
Wayne

Wayne

I had that problem once with my ForsterFL! I was bumping, but the expander was just a little too high and pulled the shoulder/neck back up a touch!! Pulled the stem, tried again, and got the bump! Put the stem back in and turned the stem down a turn and a half!! Problem solved!!!

Bill!!!