Need more shoulder bump. Special shell holder?

[barefooter56]

I just started reloading for 6ARC, and with a standard shell holder and Forster sizing die I can’t get enough shoulder bump. I have ground down a couple other shell holders for other calibers, but I was wondering if anyone sells shell holders that have dimensions equal to those that have been ground down, for this case scenario. I don’t feel like grinding this down like the others. I do it rather crudely, and I would rather have it completely squared to the face of the die. It seems rather common. Thanks in advance!

Removing about .001 to .002 OFF THE BOTTOM of the die would be a way to go here. Gunsmith or buddy with machinist experience with a lathe . You would need a hardened cutter though.

 

[Rocketvapor]

Maybe Forster would do it for you.

 

[Chilly807]

I had a similar problem with a Lee die for a 223. I skimmed about 10 thou off the top of the shell holder, so now I can easily adjust the die to give me several thousandths of an inch on either side of "ideal" headspace. An extra $12 shell holder was a lot cheaper than a set of Redding shell holders that wouldn't have solved the problem I was having anyway.

I thought they would have a range on either side of the "standard" dimension, but apparently that's not the case. Good to know.

 

[Murray Brook]

I 100% understand the Redding Competition shell holder sets, never seen a need for them nor shims!… that’s why the die has threads
Wayne

Certainly agree with you Wayne, but what I like about the Redding Comp shell holders is that your brass bump changes as it ages, more so if you do not anneal. Just by changing shell holders I can get my proper bump back. Works for me.

 

[dellet]

Before doing anything, I’d probably just stick a feeler gauge under the brass to lift it up in the shell holder. With any luck that will tell you exactly how much it’s off, and may even give you all the correction needed.

 

[bozo699]

Before doing anything, I’d probably just stick a feeler gauge under the brass to lift it up in the shell holder. With any luck that will tell you exactly how much it’s off, and may even give you all the correction needed.

He doesn’t need more he needs less
Wayne

 

[bozo699]

Certainly agree with you Wayne, but what I like about the Redding Comp shell holders is that your brass bump changes as it ages, more so if you do not anneal. Just by changing shell holders I can get my proper bump back. Works for me.

I understand my friend, I do anneal every time but even then as brass ages every once in a while you need an adjustment. I can see if you don’t want to hassle with the die just drop .002 with a shell holder. I personally never felt the need for them although since I’m a “hoarder” I have a couple sets lol
Wayne

 

[bozo699]

Where’s Big Ed when you need animated narrations ?…. When a shell holder makes solid contact with your die and you can’t get the shoulder bump you want putting a Redding + size shell holder in only exasperates the problem!!!…… you need - shell holder not + why is that so hard for people to grasp?…
Wayne


P.S
If Redding was smart they would make both + and - sized shell holders

 

[dellet]

He doesn’t need more he needs less
Wayne

Title says he “needs more shoulder bump”. That would be moving the shoulder closer to the case head. Why else would he consider grinding the surface of the shell holder? If he needed to go the other way, all he has to do is unscrew the die.

Only way to get more bump is to get the case into the die farther. Lifting the case head off the shell holder will do exactly that. I’ve seen some shell holders that will allow .007-8” between the case head and shell holder.

 

[bozo699]

Title says he “needs more shoulder bump”. That would be moving the shoulder closer to the case head. Why else would he consider grinding the surface of the shell holder? If he needed to go the other way, all he has to do is unscrew the die.

Only way to get more bump is to get the case into the die farther. Lifting the case head off the shell holder will do exactly that. I’ve seen some shell holders that will allow .007-8” between the case head and shell holder.

Yes,….. maybe….. but not with Redding competition shell holders there all plus size
Hence why you need to grind off the shell holder to get the job done
Wayne

 

[dellet]

Yes,….. maybe….. but not with Redding competition shell holders there all plus size
Hence why you need to grind off the shell holder to get the job done
Wayne

The OP has only mentioned the competition shell holders to let people know that he knows how they work, and that they are not what he needs.

Why would any one buy a Redding competition shell holder just so they can spend more money to more time to grind off more material, for this application is mind boggling.

 

[bozo699]

The OP has only mentioned the competition shell holders to let people know that he knows how they work, and that they are not what he needs.

Why would any one buy a Redding competition shell holder just so they can spend more money to more time to grind off more material, for this application is mind boggling.

Totally agree
Wayne

 

[Rocketvapor]

 

[fatelvis]

I'm currently waiting for the cheapest shell holder I could find to be delivered. I'm gonna try the idea that NorCalMikie mentioned, using a drill press and sandpaper/stone. I've done them very crudely before on the side of a grinding wheel, and although it worked, the face of the shell holder wasn't square. I think without a lathe or mill, the drill press is my best bet. I agree with you guys, I'm surprised someone doesn't offer minus shell holders! (Somebody wanna get on this? Lol)

 

[bozo699]

I'm currently waiting for the cheapest shell holder I could find to be delivered. I'm gonna try the idea that NorCalMikie mentioned, using a drill press and sandpaper/stone. I've done them very crudely before on the side of a grinding wheel, and although it worked, the face of the shell holder wasn't square. I think without a lathe or mill, the drill press is my best bet. I agree with you guys, I'm surprised someone doesn't offer minus shell holders! (Somebody wanna get on this? Lol)

It will work for sure, good luck buddy
Wayne

 

[BoydAllen]

The top of my desk/work surface is covered with Formica. I have used it with a piece of wet and dry paper to reduce the thickness of a shell holder. Checking for evenness as I went I was able to get an excellent outcome. What I learned is that the side of the shell holder that is cut away to allow a case in, will cut faster if it is on the side that is away from you as you push the shell holder across the abrasive paper, so by reversing the shell holder so that that part faces toward me I was able to even out the thickness and end up with the same measurement to .001 all the way around. Often simple tools attention to detail and patience can produce excellent work, where getting in a hurry will not.

 

[Webster]

Unfortunately, those go the other direction. They add distance from the base of the head to the face of the die, not subtract.
But as always, I appreciate your input!

Your only sanding about 2 thou off. A production tolerance might be +/- 0.002". Sand 1 thou off the shell holder and 1 thou off the die? Sand in a figure 8 and rotate the holder many times to try to account for uneven finger pressure. A figure 8 is supposed to give a non-directional scratch pattern. I wonder what kind of tolerance there is between the base that the case head sits on related to top of the shell holder that contacts the die. The shell holder has 3 contact surfaces. None of my shell holders look like they have a machined surface? Even the hard to reach areas have a smooth polished look?

 

[Steve Donlon]

Your only sanding about 2 thou off. A production tolerance might be +/- 0.002". Sand 1 thou off the shell holder and 1 thou off the die? Sand in a figure 8 and rotate the holder many times to try to account for uneven finger pressure. A figure 8 is supposed to give a non-directional scratch pattern. I wonder what kind of tolerance there is between the base that the case head sits on related to top of the shell holder that contacts the die. The shell holder has 3 contact surfaces. None of my shell holders look like they have a machined surface? Even the hard to reach areas have a smooth polished look?

You explained it well. From my experience the amount of bump you need changes with the brass so that is why i use paper shims. It's not a constant. Maybe that's just my set up that causes this to happen. Every thing I use is old. But it works for me. Then when I'm done sizing I always have a few that did not get pushed back enough so that's when I use the Redding Body die to move it just enough to be where I want it.

 

[Link]

I didn't read the 1st 70+ posts, did anyone mention make sure your camming over your press?

 

[divingin]

Invest in a PMA sizing die adjuster. No grinding of anything.

Won't work. Your hard limit is die against shellholder/plate. You have to remove metal from something to get more down adjustment.