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Need more shoulder bump. Special shell holder?

I have used my coax, and my T7. Even when the die is screwed all the way down on both, the sized piece of brass can’t be chambered, using finger pressure in my bolt carrier group, in the upper. Now that I think about it, every time I needed to grind down a shell holder, it was using Forster dies.
I do not load for semi-auto's - never had. But I wonder if the issue is the radial dimension of the case and not the shoulder. In other words, you might need a small base die. I know a few semi reloaders that need them for their rifles.
 
If the brass has only been thru the one rifle, sb die shouldn't be needed. Unless the gun is extremely over gassed and the bolt is unlocking early, allowing the brass to expand. I run range brass thru 6 different 223/556 (bolt,gas guns)and don't have a sb die. Occasionally a case will not drop fit a Lyman ammo checker after sizing, I don't mess around they go in scrap bucket. They often will chamber, but I use my gas guns for hunting(subzero winter temps).I don't want to deal with mortaring out hunting. For me if brass is only fired in one rifle(factory) and a standard FL die will not size once fired brass properly, there is a problem.
 
I had same issue with my CA in 6.5 prc. Tried redding and hornady f/l dies as well as a redding body die. Ended up grinding down a shell holder and issue fixed. A friend has a browning in 6.5 prc and no issues using my redding dies or his hornady. I think it was a reamer issue being tighter in my CA rifle vs die manufacturers specs. Lots of issues out there on the prc's having this issue.
 
I can’t believe some of the replies?…. This is not a new thing!…. If you do a search you will find this has been discussed many many times on this forum.
Fatelvis,
You don’t need a new press, you don’t need to send your die off. You don’t need to re invent the wheel!…. It’s common practice to remove some off a shell holder. I have a custom .300 wm I had to grind so much off the shell holder to get shoulder bump I was afraid it would fail when coming back out of the die when sizing, but it’s sized hundreds of cases.
Wayne
 
What I have been doing since my first custom build was to use a extra coarse diamond stone, for knife sharpening, to take the top on the shell holder down. A RCBS one because they are thinner, as was talked about. Then I cut a paper shim to get the exact distance I need. I put the shim under the sizing die to raise it up to where it needs to be after cutting the top of the shell holder down far enough to be a little to much. It's very easy to find the exact thickness of a piece of paper I need for a perfect bump. Then one shell holder cut down will do all that use that size shell holder. They last longer than you would think and paper is easy to find.
 
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.125 may be standard but-------
if you buy one of each brand of shell holder and try them you will discover that some will size a few thou more than other brands. if you need more than 4 thou you will have to make one.

notch them to mark them.
 
I think the Area 419 modular shellholder system does have some of the inserts that goes the other way, but grinding down is way cheaper of course.
 
I think the Area 419 modular shellholder system does have some of the inserts that goes the other way, but grinding down is way cheaper of course.
Yes, the Area 419 does go both directions. What is nice is their kit covers .223, .308, and Magnum case heads. Its expensive, but if you buy three sets of Redding, the Area 419 is actually cheaper.
 
Unfortunately, those go the other direction. They add distance from the base of the head to the face of the die, not subtract.
But as always, I appreciate your input!
No they don’t. Read the instructions. Those things are bad ass.

Edit. I read a post on here wrong. Don’t know what you’re trying to do but if you can’t get enough bump with the comp. Shell holders you will have to grind one down
 
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Every time someone mentions the Competition Shell Holders there will always be a
"decreases headspace, less bump" -- "increases head space, more bump" discussion
:)

"Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace."
The 0.010" shell holder decreases headspace by 0.010" meaning the case will be longer due to 0.010" less bump. The 0.002" will only give you 0.002" less bump than a stock shell holder.
Which one gives you MORE BUMP (shorter case) than a stock holder?

Grinding the shell holder gives MORE BUMP by pushing the case further up into the die.
OP said "I can’t get enough shoulder bump."
Does he want LESS bump or MORE bump?
 
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I think they do though. When you think about it the +10 gives you the least amount of bump then you lower number ( .08-.02) for more bump, then the standard shell holder gives the most bump as the last try.
Correct set contact up on the .010. Check if need more bump go to the .008 and continue on till your desired bump
 
Every time someone mentions the Competition Shell Holders there will always be a
"decreases headspace, less bump" -- "increases head space, more bump" discussion
:)

"Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace."
The 0.010" shell holder decreases headspace by 0.010" meaning the case will be longer due to 0.010" less bump.

Grinding the shell holder gives MORE BUMP by pushing the case further up into the die.
OP said "I can’t get enough shoulder bump."
Does he want LESS bump or MORE bump?
He said he can’t get enough. Set the die up on the .010. Each subsequent one pushes the case in another .002 if they were machined right from redding.
 

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