• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Neck turning on a lathe

Finally got the picture to post. These are now available at Sinclair/Brownells
 

Attachments

  • upload_2020-1-5_7-13-36.png
    upload_2020-1-5_7-13-36.png
    605.6 KB · Views: 41
I have a lathe but the conventional K&M neck Turner does the same thing a lot less hassle

I think you end up with a better neck. Look at it like this, on conventional turners you have to have clearance for the brass to rotate or heat builds up on the mandrel. Doing it on the lathe the way Jackie does it the mandrel expands the brass and is the rotation driver for the turning process. I’m not sure if I’m explaining it well enough but for me and the way I’m doing my 30BR and 30Dasher brass I fireform unturned brass which still leaves it too small in diameter for a .308” mandrel, then I final expand on the mandrel in the lathe which then rotates the brass to be cut. It really is quicker once you get going, if you were only doing a few pieces it probably isn’t worth it, but for 200-300 at a time I’ll never go back to a hand held turner and drill motor.
 
Question for those using the K&M or similar tools; do you ever see results like this? Specifically the uneven cut at the shouder:
case_neck_runout_.jpg
 
I think you end up with a better neck. Look at it like this, on conventional turners you have to have clearance for the brass to rotate or heat builds up on the mandrel. Doing it on the lathe the way Jackie does it the mandrel expands the brass and is the rotation driver for the turning process. I’m not sure if I’m explaining it well enough but for me and the way I’m doing my 30BR and 30Dasher brass I fireform unturned brass which still leaves it too small in diameter for a .308” mandrel, then I final expand on the mandrel in the lathe which then rotates the brass to be cut. It really is quicker once you get going, if you were only doing a few pieces it probably isn’t worth it, but for 200-300 at a time I’ll never go back to a hand held turner and drill motor.
Usually when I start turning I do about a hundred pieces ,but I let the tool cool and take a break, I don't get in no big hurry and my total indicated run-out on brass after it's fired is less than 1 thousandths.
P.S. plus I had more important things to do with my lathe such as chamber and thread and cutting and crowning trying to get these guys Barrels done that I'm working on.LOL
 
I think my K&M is removing chips.View attachment 1149395
Stan, I have found years ago that engine assembly lube works fantastic for turning brass. It’s messy, but I get really smooth cutting. I use a shot glass with about 1/8” in the bottom and dip the cases in. After cutting, take a clean q-tip and clean the inside. Prior to shooting I run them in the sonic in hot water with citric acid. Fruit fresh, 2 tablespoons per gallon of water. It removes all traces of the oil.
 
In the old days I used hand power, went to a 110V drill motor clamped to the bench, drill press, mill and now I still do it the same way but powered by mt lathe. We all have our favorite way and some of us change a little as we progress . My latest method is to fireform first, only have to expand very little, trim to length, put my brass in a collet in the lathe, hold my K&M, Stiller, or Pumpkin turner in my hand and make a cut. Carbide mandrels help.
Jackie and Mike Bryant use the lathe to cut their necks as it works for them.
I usually do 20 at a time to use in the next match.
 
Thanks for the replies to my question.

rsmithr50 these are 222 Remington cases, head stamps are R-P, WW super, Browning. Unfortunately all of my brass had been fired and full length resized, with the expander ball in place.

I am (now, after much trial and error) using the "Jackie" method. The case in my picture above had been cut bascially the same way except the case head was supported by a live center. I have since found that if I just let the case head go I get less of that uneven cut. My Jackie mandrel is exactly .2240" and has no run out, at least less than a tenth.

I asked my question because the answers would help me understand, was I seeing the result of a thickness variation or a run-out issue.

edit to add; my chamber has a .246 neck so I cannot fire-form first and then turn. I have to turn necks or rounds don't chamber. I'm starting wonder if I should've gone with a SAAMI chamber.

I have since scrounged around and found 4 or 5 new unfired WW-super cases. I cut them, on the lathe, with the case head unsupported, and had essentially none of that uneven cut. I suppose the way forward is neck turn new brass straight out of the bag or box. Also, this makes me look upon my resizing dies with suspicion!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: oht
Please don't spank me for joining this discussion so late. I turn my necks on my Jet-1340 lathe. For my next batch (converting 250 Sav to 6mmHLS), I will size the neck and bump the shoulder in my stubby 6mmRem die, then ream inside to remove the donut and uniform the inside.
How can I hold the drill chuck in the quill during tailstock retraction??
 
Just bought this used locally the other day for neck turning and small hobby stuff like RC and rockets or whatever. I‘m aware of it’s limitations but for these purposes, and with space being precious, it will work for me. I have the option to use my family’s Sheldon 13” if needed. I’m no machinist by any means but have played on lathes since I was tall enough to do so. I use a shell holder and a K&M turning tool FWIW. I don’t think I could bring myself to pay the retail price that they charge for these mini-lathes when new.

92FD138C-5C32-4F94-A882-AE2799B4B40C.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I don't usually neck turn....but when its necessary that I do. I use a Hardinge Precision toolroom lathe, with Hardinge collets and turned manderl similar to what others do. Fast and accurate done 800 50 BMG and many hundreds of 350 Rem Mag necked down or up from other magnums 7 mag to old 300 H&H and 375 Weatherby before it became the new and improved 378 mag. Or weird experimental case forming and extractor grove cutting, like 308 to 6mm ARC just so see if it can be done for emergency information. Or 30-30 to 30 Rem to get an old gun running...don't turn necks, on any standard cartridge. It made accuracy worse in the old 17 Remington experiment in a factory chamber I ran many yrs ago...and I always order no neck turn reamers.
But doesn't every reloader and gun enthusiasts own a precision lathe and Bridgeport mill plus at least $50,000 in tooling? And spent many years in apprenticeship & college on learning to use machine tools. Too bad, cause that's a career you could really apply to your hobby...and go on wild experiments, like a child and with a motorized erector set. An industrial salvage yard just down the street, lots of cool stuff, metals with PO numbers still on the remnants..to get the exact material your looking for cheap. Plus really exotic stuff too expensive to buy or to heavy to move...dropped industrial contracts with thousands of pieces brand new, sold as scrap, in most of the common metals and alloys. No more 200 lb billits of zirconium, copper or titanium these days because if theft from industrial sites for the average person to buy...or posses, paperwork and government control. Plus zirconium is dangerous for the average guy to machine. Probably advise against it unless you're building your own nuclear reactor or cluster bombs...where it works great.
 
Not too many shooters have their own lathe.
Buy a ratty used pickup truck and a American/ European good quality used lathe, and milling machine...and take classes to learn how to use them...if you're the mechanical type...or Become a machinist, learn old school craftsmanship, not the button pusher computerized machine tool technology I had to go back to college for. The new truck got old and is worth little...the machine tools hold value longer. And you can build a custom rifle in a day ...or 2 when ya get old and lazy ....want a 6 dasher? Build it today shoot it tomorrow....Ordered the parts ... Bartlein barrel arrived just before noon, chambered & threaded the new barrel, take off barrel of the donor barreled action, action trued, muzzle brake added, machine bolt knob, m16 Extractor installed, installed Aluminum chasis, machine mag latch, install scope...load some ammo. Shoot the next day...no waiting on someone else to build You a quality rifle to your standards...no hiding the imperfections, or mistakes..shoots good leave it alone or modify any part for improvement or individual taste. Didn't like the 6 dasher, chamber the barrel to 6 Creedmoor, or the more exotic 244 H&H.
 
Nope, Hardunge HLVH super precision toolroom lathe. 1.375" spindle hole so I can chamber and thread barrels. Made in England. About $25,000 new years ago, good used $12 to $15000. Who knows at today's prices and how much it's been abused or used...Hardinge are excellent lathes their bearings are as good quality CNC lathes today. Ran em both alot professionally for 35 yrs on mechanical and about 15 years on computerized, as the computerized took over and inundated every aspect of production. I WAS EVEN BAR CODED for total porduction control ...the only mechanical lathe left in this large world class production shop was a Hardinge HLVH EM toolroom super precision, and I'd often run in and turn out a part while my 2 CNC mills were running, on their cycle time.
 
I don't usually neck turn....but when its necessary that I do. I use a Hardinge Precision toolroom lathe, with Hardinge collets and turned manderl similar to what others do. Fast and accurate done 800 50 BMG and many hundreds of 350 Rem Mag necked down or up from other magnums 7 mag to old 300 H&H and 375 Weatherby before it became the new and improved 378 mag. Or weird experimental case forming and extractor grove cutting, like 308 to 6mm ARC just so see if it can be done for emergency information. Or 30-30 to 30 Rem to get an old gun running...don't turn necks, on any standard cartridge. It made accuracy worse in the old 17 Remington experiment in a factory chamber I ran many yrs ago...and I always order no neck turn reamers.
But doesn't every reloader and gun enthusiasts own a precision lathe and Bridgeport mill plus at least $50,000 in tooling? And spent many years in apprenticeship & college on learning to use machine tools. Too bad, cause that's a career you could really apply to your hobby...and go on wild experiments, like a child and with a motorized erector set. An industrial salvage yard just down the street, lots of cool stuff, metals with PO numbers still on the remnants..to get the exact material your looking for cheap. Plus really exotic stuff too expensive to buy or to heavy to move...dropped industrial contracts with thousands of pieces brand new, sold as scrap, in most of the common metals and alloys. No more 200 lb billits of zirconium, copper or titanium these days because if theft from industrial sites for the average person to buy...or posses, paperwork and government control. Plus zirconium is dangerous for the average guy to machine. Probably advise against it unless you're building your own nuclear reactor or cluster bombs...where it works great.

Chuckle chuckle, the last thing I would recommend to a young person would be a career as a gunsmith. They need a job to put a roof over their head and food on the table.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,260
Messages
2,214,860
Members
79,496
Latest member
Bie
Back
Top