Neck turning on a lathe

[WillyTP]

Can you PM or post a picture of your KM tool?

in post #5 is a picture of two k&m turners

 

[Bill Norris]

in post #5 is a picture of two k&m turners

Mine is just like those and actually one of my buddies borrowed mine for the week end. If u look closely at # 1 tool there is brass shavings left at the cutter blade.

 

[BenPerfected]

How about a send you a picture of my K&M power neck turner and a picture of a finished pc of brass. The bad news is it isn’t made any longer. It was only sold by Sinclair/Brownells.
Ben
Update, K&M is now back offered their power neck turner thru Sinclair/Brownells....most everything in reloading is less expensive than a full size lathe.
Ben

 

[Rich S]

Rich,
Nice job. I think.that you are getting superior results. I like that you are able to turn into the neck slightly with a matched tool like PMA does on their neck turner. I think that I will try doing it this way.

With that said, how are you pushing the case onto the mandrel in the chuck with the tailstock and getting your center in the primer pocket to repeat that position each time?

Danny

Rich,
Nice job. I think.that you are getting superior results. I like that you are able to turn into the neck slightly with a matched tool like PMA does on their neck turner. I think that I will try doing it this way.

With that said, how are you pushing the case onto the mandrel in the chuck with the tailstock and getting your center in the primer pocket to repeat that position each time?

Danny

I leave the tailstock locked in place and use the handwheel scale similar to pushing a reamer. If the puller is sized with a small gap between the center and case, there is little extra travel required. I put a small relief (no shoulder) in the mandrel for a visual indicator when Im close then switch to the scale.

 

[WillyTP]

How about a send you a picture of my K&M power neck turner and a picture of a finished pc of brass. The bad news is it isn’t made any longer. It was only sold by Sinclair/Brownells.
Ben

yes if you’re having trouble posting it you can email to me and I’ll post for you, if that’ll help

 

[WillyTP]

I ended up getting a machinable morse taper tail piece, chucked it and turned out a bit for a standard shell holder. I use that to drive the case onto the mandrel, turn the brass then retract tail stock and done.

 

[butchlambert]

Run it backwards ?

You mean you can put the brass back on running it backward?

 

[rsmithsr50]

only if it did not create chips the first time !

You mean you can put the brass back on running it backward?

 

[WIB3]

With my K&M cutters I’m easily able to keep a .0001 tolerance on my finished piece. I’m turning BR cases to be fire formed into a Dasher. I compete in 1000 yd Benchrest, so I have a set of gauge pins that I use after each firing. When I see that I have excess brass flowing in to the necks I get new brass. I do not neck turn fired brass. The advantage of shooting a Dasher is the ability to turn the necks beyond the shoulder junction and keep it consistent. When changes occur I bring in new brass, usually takes place after 5-6 firings.

 

[Stan Taylor]

I think my K&M is removing chips.

 

[butchlambert]

I think my K&M is removing chips.View attachment 1149395

Stan, are you sure? chuckle chuckle

 

[AccelR8]

Well, well. I started neck turning brass, something I had never done before, on my lathe. I searched here on these forums, I googled it, I looked for U-tube videos. I found nothing, and assumed that no one is turning their brass on a lathe.

I had briefly considered a mandrel in the head stock but almost immediately discounted it because I thought there was no way the mandrel would not slip and spin in the neck as the tool is cutting. So I went the opposite way; I made a mandrel to fit in a bearing mounted on a taper which fit into the tail stock. I used a Jacobs chuck on the head stock spindle to drive the case head.

I cannot tell you the series of issues and troubles I worked through one by one to refine the technique to where it is accurate and repeatable. I spent many, many hours solving problems. I sure wish I had seen the information here before I started. It could have saved me lots of time, and lots of brass! The scrap man will be happy.

Ya know I thought about asking on the forum if anyone had any advice about it but I didn't want to be the new guy asking basic simple questions.

 

[danny]

Well, well. I started neck turning brass, something I had never done before, on my lathe. I searched here on these forums, I googled it, I looked for U-tube videos. I found nothing, and assumed that no one is turning their brass on a lathe.

I had briefly considered a mandrel in the head stock but almost immediately discounted it because I thought there was no way the mandrel would not slip and spin in the neck as the tool is cutting. So I went the opposite way; I made a mandrel to fit in a bearing mounted on a taper which fit into the tail stock. I used a Jacobs chuck on the head stock spindle to drive the case head.

I cannot tell you the series of issues and troubles I worked through one by one to refine the technique to where it is accurate and repeatable. I spent many, many hours solving problems. I sure wish I had seen the information here before I started. It could have saved me lots of time, and lots of brass! The scrap man will be happy.

Ya know I thought about asking on the forum if anyone had any advice about it but I didn't want to be the new guy asking basic simple questions.

There was/is a guy that was neck turning on a lathe on Youtube.

Danny

 

[danny]

I just had my first go at turning necks on a lathe. I basically used the method Jackie Schmidt posted. https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/neck-turning-with-lathe/ I didn't like removing the dead center to pull the cases. I made a puller so I could leave the dead center in place. This also allowed use of the tail stock to push the brass on the same distance each time. Then a carriage stop can be used to cut the shoulder. It seemed fairly consistent. I turned at 400 rpm and 0.0022 feed rate. Any suggestions for improvement is appreciated

View attachment 1149111 View attachment 1149112

Are you turning with the dead center in place at the case head, or not? It seems like I am seeing it done both ways now.

Danny

 

[Rich S]

Are you turning with the dead center in place at the case head, or not? It seems like I am seeing it done both ways now.

Danny

Just a couple on accident. Its a little hard on the primer pockets running dry. I back it off. Not sure but I think it could induce runout.

 

[Stan Taylor]

I have seen some very interesting post on this subject, but my main concern is why.

 

[rsmithsr50]

ask jackie
as in how long it took him to do 200 cases for the score nationals.
(it helps if you have a ton of experience under your belt. he cuts a new mandrel each session. )

I have seen some very interesting post on this subject, but my main concern is why.

 

[WillyTP]

Here’s Jackie’s video. This isn’t for everyone, like said before most people don’t have a lathe either big or small so the handheld turners and a drill motor works.

 

[Stan Taylor]

Here’s Jackie’s video. This isn’t for everyone, like said before most people don’t have a lathe either big or small so the handheld turners and a drill motor works.

I have a lathe but the conventional K&M neck Turner does the same thing a lot less hassle

 

[rsmithsr50]

like I said ask Jackie how long, then think how log it would take you to do 200 and how sore your hands would be.
I agree it aint for everyone. I use a lathe for turning with a turner, not single point.

I have a lathe but the conventional K&M neck Turner does the same thing a lot less hassle