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My new case annealing machine

Boyd – Using the sound of a metronome is a good idea from the standpoint that if frees your eyes from having to look at a watch/clock, but since the OP’s setup does not require the operator to move/turn the brass or the torch for that matter, watching the clock is not a burden.

The other problem I have with it and for that matter using a watch/clock is unless you set the annealing time somehow to a relatively long period i.e. closer to 10 seconds, you are going to have a hard time getting a precise annealing duration. Certainly annealing time down in the 2-3 seconds range would be challenging.
 
Well thats a new idea - great idea. - You can use a smart phone for a metronome, both visual and audible.
 
heres another cheap method i use to do my cases. i have machine alloy blocks which have clearance to allow 223 and 308 size body to slide in neatly with around .010 clearance about 1.5" deep.
these are machined on the other end to fit in a battery hand drill. i then set up the propane torch in a comfortable position and then slip a case in hold the neck on the side of the blue tip flame, count to about 5 sec's for 223 and about 8 for XC cases and watch the heat travel just down the shoulder.
you then just tip the case out gently on a wet cloth and keep the process going, the alloy helps transfer heat from the body of the case and the wet cloth also helps heat tranfer.
it works for me and is cheaper than a rotating unit.
 
Jhord - You sound like a handy guy. For the small cost of a timer delay circuit board, a couple of relays, a small motor, and some metal work you could build your own annealing machine that would rival the Benchsource.

Build a couple and sell them and yours would be free. Don't you just love innovation and capitalism?
 
Thank you, I am a high performance engine builder by trade so I have the innovation and capitalism thing down pretty well. But after a day's worth of that I'd much rather just shoot than build annealing machines. ;D But we'll see how bored I get this winter...
 
jlow--Here is my annealer. Raise the handle the case is in the flame as the timer engages after so many seconds it beeps, drop the handle, stop drill, take case off plunge in ice water. the drop is softened by coil springs. The drill stand head is upside down and the drill runs 100 rpms w/ speed reducer. It's slower than most but works well.
 

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jhord--I meant to say jhord not jlow, sorry about the wrong name. All this cost me was $14 for the timer, I had the other stuff collecting dust. Anybody could make one, you can pick up the drill stands at antique markets cheap. bed frame angle iron and pieces of scrap metal.
 
Charlie Watson--Yeah my brother made one like you are describing and it works alright but the little dc motor and the relays can be troublesome, and I like it simple. When you have to keep polishing and lubricating a small plunger so it doesn't hang up, and have to test it in the middle of the annealing process, and setting the timer precisely isn't real easy-well I was gonna make one but I'll stick to what I have and save $500 on the factory ones too.
 
jhord--You can mount a piece of metal in the tool post on the opposite side of torch to push a button in on a timer mounted on the crossslide way on the right side in back end (which would have to be figured out how to mount) and withdraw the torch w/ your crosslide crank handle each time the beeper goes off if you trust your micrometer collar on the crank to advance to the same spot each time or you can mount a dial indicator on your magnetic stand to push against to the same spot each time, it should work fine.
 
jlow--You can even mount a pc of keystock in the toolpost and mount a dial indicator to it then make a vertical stop on your rear way verticallt so the indicator nib can go against. The timer can come up vertically from the rear way also, you have all kinds of possibilities there, I think you can figure it out. I hope I helped you in some small way.
 
You can even crank the whole carriage toward the tail when beeper sounds then return carriage back to same spot against a cariage stop on the main way(s),
 
The other problem I have with it and for that matter using a watch/clock is unless you set the annealing time somehow to a relatively long period i.e. closer to 10 seconds, you are going to have a hard time getting a precise annealing duration.

I agree. If not using an automated system, turning the flame down so a longer duration is needed effectively improves the precision of the process. The shorter the duration the more critical the time factor becomes.
 
Set-up looks good. However.......the torch nozzle must have all the inlet holes (located at the base of the nozzle) free of obstructions........or they will burn lean and apply a lot of unnecessary heat to the nozzles and your tool post.
 
I've been using my fingers to hold the cases for over 40 years and never saw a reason to change. I especially like the "built in" case base overheat warning system that came as standard equippment with either finger..................why so complicated guys, this is a simple proceedure. ::)
 
Hammer47--If it works for you that's great, but there is nothing wrong w/ making something up or even buying one if a person wants to. If the annealing process produces good results the method doesn't matter, but if a guy has a broken lathe setting around and finds a use for it and seems to me it is pretty resourceful. My old B&D drill stand had been gathering dust for a good many years until 4 or 5 years ago.
 
Dan..... I have no problem with someone using a machine but don't you think we tend to overcomplicate the sport? And I thought only benchresters invented stuff to worry about. ;D
 
Hammer47--I believe its about end results, possibly saving money, the satisfaction of making something that you think is useful. Like you, I have beeen annealing for over 40 years. I started w/ a phonograph and holding the torch by hand and it worked. Some people like to have a good feel about doing certain reloading tasks; for instance, some of the best shooters I know seat primers to bottom out by feel then give it that extra crush, others measure their primer heighths, set the seater for the crush, some still turn necks by hand others use power. It's the make-up of the person in what he has confidence in. But you definetly have a point because when a new tool comes out (not saying annealers are new) especially w/ good advertisement some people think that they need it, and some will buy it or make it.
 
You got me Dan.......I do seat my primers and bullets by hand and sure enough turn my necks the same way. Guess old dog no like new trick. Now that I think about it the last new trick I saw was a chick in the Philippines in '68 with a ten peso note and a San Miguel bottle....................but that's another story...... Don't get around much anymore. ;)...........gary
 

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