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My "Get into reloading! " newbies post

garandman

Bolt Gun Bodacious
I can remember what it was first like... the thought of loadng my own ammo, that goes "Boom!" right near my face (ugly as it already is) was pretty scary. So now lemme give you a look from the other side... and what I think I've learned. If accuracy is your game, and yer not a billionaire, reloading is the key to improve your shooting (aside from practice, and quality gun / scope, etc)

1. Pick a caliber to reload. Likely a gun / rifle you already have. .223 or .308 or 30-06 is fine.

2. Understand its really only 4 components - bullet, powder, primer, case. There are TONS of resources available - reloading manuals, Youtube, and discussion forums like this one. A good reloading manual will give you all the tech info you need. Follow its parameters... it will set you straight and keep you safe. Youtube will show you the overall process. It will remove the mysery and "fear."

Here's a sample page from a reloading manual:


1502-sierra-bullet-load-data.jpg


Above gives the bullet type, overall length of cartridge, type and quantity of powder. The manual will also tell you what primer. 11 different powder types (above) and dozens of different powder quantites give you endless parameters to "dial in" your load.

Bullet choice is a significant decision, but is beyond our scope here.


3. Get an RCBS "Rockchucker" - but only for re-sizing your cases. Its a single stage press that's very easy to learn to use well and will last you for years.

044-9356.jpg

You will also need a sizing die. RCBS, Lee, Dillon, Forster, etc have these. For initially getting into reloading, most any of these will do. Yes, accuracy can be improved by type of sizing die and its setup, but that's for down the road.


4. Measuring powder is main critical safety component. There are others, but this is the main one. In the table above for .243 rounds, you'll see Benchmark powder (listed first - 37.1, 38.2, etc ) with coresponding velocities. Start at the low end and work up in small increments. Likely the most accurate load will be in between the listed powder quantities. . The table also shows listed velocities, but what happens on paper with group size is the most significant measurement you are looking for. (When you start chronographing velocities, standard deviation and extreme spread will be important also, for your grou size over distance.) ) HOW you measure powder has numerous answers, and Youtube can give you lots of info there - here is but one video:


5. Seating primers is best done with a hand tool. I use the RCBS and Frankford Arsenal (there are other good ones) . Here's the RCBS:
07668390201

rc_90200_handprimingtool_l.jpg.aspx

Get the adjustable jaw case that can hold a different siz cases (pictured above)

The "feel" of seating your primers is, to me, very important, in getting seating depth right. Choosing a primer is done by consulting the reloading manual data.

Primers:

0000519_cci-primers.jpeg


Numerous brands exist. CCI will get you started and has all the various varieties you might need, tho other good brands exist.


6. Lastly, seating the bullet... and this is where I've changed my mind most. I've used the RCBS press with a half dozen different dies, and get varying / substandard results. Even with the expensive ones. So I've chanced to "chamber type bullet seaters " and an arbor press:

Chamber bullet seater die:

ssbsmicroseater.jpg

This bullet seater has micrometer adjust for bullet seating depth, and a set screw to maintain consistency. In my personal view, it produces the best consistency.

Arbor press:

arborbs.jpg


This K&M press has the advantage of LACK OF mechanical advantage vs. the RCBS press. With the K&M you get much more "feel" as the bullet seats - and as noted already, greater consistency, which is where accuracy comes from.

Well, lots more COULD be said, but these are the basics, from my perspective. At the end of the day, its about shooting, not relaoding. So get out there and enjoy !
 
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I started with the Lee loader that came in a box that cost $9.99 (1979), a decent scale, and a mentor. The mentor's best advice was, "Get H4831. You can't put enough of that in the case to blow yourself up." He was right. My first group with Sierras was half the size I'd been getting with the factory Silvertips. Killed deer dead. My point is that you can start simple and cheap, and then upgrade as you want and are able.
 
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I started with the Lee loader that came in a box that cost $9.99 (1979), a decent scale, and a mentor. The mentor's best advise was, "Get H4831. You can't put enough of that in the case to blow yourself up." He was right. My first group with Sierras was half the size I'd been getting with the factory Silvertips. Killed deer dead. My point is that you can start simple and cheap, and then upgrade as you want and are able.


Yes. What I've listed isn't the least expensive way to get in the door, but its how I'd start out now, knowing what (I think) I know, to avoid alot of trial and error and sunk costs. :)

But you are absolutely right. Don't need to spend a ton of money to get into this addiction. :)
 
For only a small price increase you can change that rcbs hand primer from the one that uses shell holders to the universal. So much easier.
 
Think your post to Newbies is great . Covered the basics . I would like to comment that I wish someone had advised me to spend more for a really good , accurate scale . Shortens up the learning process by months , And Dollars , in wasted rounds due to inconsistent loads .
Best advice I could give to any "Newbie" in any of the disciplines is simple . Go to Matches and watch . Take notes if you need to . Be polite and ask those who appear to be the better shooters questions . Don't be afraid to acknowledge you are a complete beginner and ask for help . You will find a Mentor .
 
Talk to me about powder dispensers and scales. I see some powder dispensers have a built in scale but some suggest getting an additional scale? I assume because the dispenser/scale combo are not accurate. Is there a combo that is?
 
Talk to me about powder dispensers and scales. I see some powder dispensers have a built in scale but some suggest getting an additional scale? I assume because the dispenser/scale combo are not accurate. Is there a combo that is?
Here is a video that may help you with a decision.
 
Talk to me about powder dispensers and scales. I see some powder dispensers have a built in scale but some suggest getting an additional scale? I assume because the dispenser/scale combo are not accurate. Is there a combo that is?
There is a better solution than having two scales. Buy a good set of reference "check weights". They cost about 40 bucks but i believe that they provide piece of mind and a margin of safety if used correctly.
 
Talk to me about powder dispensers and scales. I see some powder dispensers have a built in scale but some suggest getting an additional scale? I assume because the dispenser/scale combo are not accurate. Is there a combo that is?

Like many guys, I have trust issues. Electronics can go haywire and might go unnoticed but gravity is a stable constant. My Hornady Lock-N-Load Auto Charger will keep charges to +/- 3-4 granules. The RCBS 5-0-2 sitting next to it will hold +/- 1 granule. I throw with the Auto Charge, then dump it into the 5-0-2 pan and trickle the last few granules in.
 
^^^Same for me^^^
5-0-2, Lee scoop and Dandy Trickler.
Like you said, you can watch the pointer move with each granule added.
No batteries, no electrical interference, no warm up, just gravity.
 
RCBS Rockchucker, 505 scale (batteries never go bad);) standard full length dies till you know better. After that, the skys the limit. Neck dies, bushing bump dies (my favorite) Arbor press. Had guys try to talk me into the Arbor press but I still prefer my Rockchucker. Digital scales? Watched the numbers keep changing till I pulled the plug and sold it.;) Everybody has to start somewhere. And you WILL duplicate some of your gear. That's part of the plan.:p
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I like the route of a powder dispenser, transfer to a beam scale, and then top off with a trickle dispenser. Plus, it’s cheaper!
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I like the route of a powder dispenser, transfer to a beam scale, and then top off with a trickle dispenser. Plus, it’s cheaper!
Popular way to start out, and many folks never find the need to change.

Make sure the poises are set in the center of the scale's grooves and are set properly for the weight you want. Remember that bumping/moving the scale can accidentally change your intended settings (as well as the calibration to "0").

Maintain the same viewing angle reading the scale to make sure you are lining up the pointer and 0-mark the same way each time.

You'll get a good opportunity to judge the repeatability of your powder measure and your dispensing technique for that specific powder by taking notice of how much you need to trickle to "top off" each charge. That knowledge can help you speed up the process without changing the tools you are using.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I like the route of a powder dispenser, transfer to a beam scale, and then top off with a trickle dispenser. Plus, it’s cheaper!

After a while getting acquainted with my RCBS M500 balance beam scale, I found I could get consistently accurate measurements. And here's how I do it:

1. Make sure the air in my room is not moving (or have a cover around the scale to keep air movement out) so that the scale isn't affected (like when the household forced air or heating in on).

2. Using a PC Camera to get a very up close up view to see the slightest movement balance mark and the pointer. It's very easy to see the difference in just one powder granule and never have to worry about varying parallax view.

3. Before starting, every time, I calibrate the scale to zero using Lyman's Scale Weight Check Set.

4. When weighing a charge, I always let loose of the pan from the same position each time so the arm oscillates the same (or trying to get it to do so) each time. I found when I start with the arm from different postilions with different oscillations, I get more variance in my measurements.

5. I set my powder dispenser to throw a charge just under what I want so I can trickle up a little each time.

6. My trickler is a Frankfurt Arsenal trickler with a clear piece straw attached to the end so I can see the granules as they move out. I tilt the trickler a little towards the end of the spout using an old credit card under the base. I will turn the trickler nob to charge the pipeline. But when I'm trickling, I simply tap the nob vigorously or lightly depending how much I want to fall out of the end of the straw end. Usually, it goes from a couple vigorous taps to a very light tap to drop just one last granule to line the balance beam pointer exactly where I want it without going past. If, for some reason, I happen to go too far, like several granules over, I need to pull a lot out of the pan with a powder scoop to start over at trickling up so that I'm working up the same way each time. If it looks like I went over just 1 granule, I'll simply pull the one granule out with the scoop then dump the charge into the case.

The time it takes to throw, set the pan with powder on the scale, trickle up and then dump the charge into a case . . . all takes less time than my tuned ChargeMaster does and I get more finely measured charges that consistently give me single digit SD's as well a low ES's.

I feel there are some better balance beam scales than my M500, but I feel I've managed to get the most out of it after a lot of trial and error. So . . . a cheap balance beam scale can work well when you figure out how it works best.
 
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Some shoot to reload

Some reload to shoot

:)
I think I love reloading more than shooting !
 
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