My favorite bedding compound, Pro Bed 2000!

[Twdmar]

I've been loving Pro Bed 2000. The guys I've used it for notice the lack of shrinking. With other compounds, namely marine tex or acraglass, if they re-torque the action a month after getting it, they'll get a little turn of the screw. No such movement with PB2k.

However, once it cures, it does seem a little less hard than other products. It's not going to move, but it doesn't "seem" as hard. I have no clue if it matters, but you know these things can keep a guy up at night.

Today I figured out my preferred way to use it.

- Put your dollops on a mixing sheet.

- Apply a little heat to get it softened up

- Mix "a pinch" (steal your girls measuring spoons) of fumed silica to thicken it. If I don't thicken it, a lot tends to seep down the pillars and create ugly gaps. Do whatever you can to eliminate any air flow and don't inhale this stuff... It's as light as air and difficult to manage if you're not prepared.

- Mix in maybe 1/3 teaspoon or so of atomized stainless steel (https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-bedding/atomized-metals/?sku=081021204)

- Maybe a little more heat if you're slow. PB is weird like corn starch.. it can be hard to mix, but the heat helps a ton.


Apply and enjoy. The end result is a much harder feeling bed that doesn't sag during cure or shrink after.

What are you using to mix it? I've recently started taking a stiff putty knife and wrapping it in blue masking tape. I have not used the pro bed but I can squish epoxy flat when I mix it and push out air bubbles at the same time. This would really only be for thicker compounds.
After I pull the tape off the epoxy is gone. Some of the thinner epoxies, when mixed in a cup, will remained unmixed on the surface of the cup and if it's scraped into your part, some may not set up.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Bed It Right! Bedding Compounds Compared by Speedy « Daily Bulletin

A customer of well-known gunsmith (and Hall-of-Fame shooter) Thomas Speedy Gonzalez recently asked Speedy about bedding compounds. Speedy offered some interesting advice based on long-term testing of various materials. Speedy favors Marine-Tex because it is very stable over time, while other...

bulletin.accurateshooter.com

 

[Judd]

I recently switched to it, I’ve done two stocks thus far. Weirdly, mine has mixed fine and no need for heat. If anything I’d like it to set up a little quicker. I find I’ve done my clean up and come back a while later and soon additional has seeped out that I have to clean up after it hardens.

I really like the caulk gun and 50/50 mix. I do store mine in climate controlled, maybe that has something to do with it?

I liked everything about Devcon 10110 except they got too proud of out.

 

[muleystalker]

I am corrected, I thought I had read one time that it was low strength and used for making molds. Maybe a different product number.

Just out of curiosity do you have the specs on the PB 2000?

 

[Wild Bill IV]

I've been loving Pro Bed 2000. The guys I've used it for notice the lack of shrinking. With other compounds, namely marine tex or acraglass, if they re-torque the action a month after getting it, they'll get a little turn of the screw. No such movement with PB2k.

However, once it cures, it does seem a little less hard than other products. It's not going to move, but it doesn't "seem" as hard. I have no clue if it matters, but you know these things can keep a guy up at night.

Today I figured out my preferred way to use it.

- Put your dollops on a mixing sheet.

- Apply a little heat to get it softened up

- Mix "a pinch" (steal your girls measuring spoons) of fumed silica to thicken it. If I don't thicken it, a lot tends to seep down the pillars and create ugly gaps. Do whatever you can to eliminate any air flow and don't inhale this stuff... It's as light as air and difficult to manage if you're not prepared.

- Mix in maybe 1/3 teaspoon or so of atomized stainless steel (https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-bedding/atomized-metals/?sku=081021204)

- Maybe a little more heat if you're slow. PB is weird like corn starch.. it can be hard to mix, but the heat helps a ton.


Apply and enjoy. The end result is a much harder feeling bed that doesn't sag during cure or shrink

I've been loving Pro Bed 2000. The guys I've used it for notice the lack of shrinking. With other compounds, namely marine tex or acraglass, if they re-torque the action a month after getting it, they'll get a little turn of the screw. No such movement with PB2k.

However, once it cures, it does seem a little less hard than other products. It's not going to move, but it doesn't "seem" as hard. I have no clue if it matters, but you know these things can keep a guy up at night.

Today I figured out my preferred way to use it.

- Put your dollops on a mixing sheet.

- Apply a little heat to get it softened up

- Mix "a pinch" (steal your girls measuring spoons) of fumed silica to thicken it. If I don't thicken it, a lot tends to seep down the pillars and create ugly gaps. Do whatever you can to eliminate any air flow and don't inhale this stuff... It's as light as air and difficult to manage if you're not prepared.

- Mix in maybe 1/3 teaspoon or so of atomized stainless steel (https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-bedding/atomized-metals/?sku=081021204)

- Maybe a little more heat if you're slow. PB is weird like corn starch.. it can be hard to mix, but the heat helps a ton.


Apply and enjoy. The end result is a much harder feeling bed that doesn't sag during cure or shrink after.

I personally do not buy bedding kits!!!
I use marine grade epoxy, fine iron filing, and Pam cooking spray!!!! Been doing this for over 40 years and have not had splitting, cracking, or softness issues!! The long fine iron fillings act a logjam binder!! Just like glass mat in polyester repair on boats!!! The fine aluminum fillers are just that!!! A filler, not a binder!! The fine iron filling binder creates greater tensile strength and rigidity in all 3 axis!!!

All epoxies take days to cure to 100% cure unless you heat cure!! Most take less than 24 hours for a 80% cure depending on the resin/catalyst (hardner) ratio!!! Plus, in the cure process, amines films come to the surface, much like water in cement, and should be wiped clean!!!

How can you trust what I say??? I worked in a world wide battery manufacturing plant as an engineer!!! Used varies types of proxies for bonding lids to the containers or jars and sealing terminals called potting!!! Did studies on varies properties too!!! Did a test on mixing water in the resin to speed up curing!!! DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT THAT FOR YOUR APPLICATION OR YOU WILL NOT LIKE THE RESULTS!!! Too much water in the resin will cause dramatic foaming when curing starts!!! And, the cured product will be softer with the right amount of water in the resin!! Had a problem with bubbles forming in terminal potting!!! Pulled testing samples from several unopened 55 gallon drums of resin with the same manufacturer's batch number!!! Those resin samples were taking into the lab, where I tested those samples for out gassing in a vacuum oven!!! The manufacturer did not degas the product resulting in a breach of contract for out of spec product!! From that day on, QC had to pull a couple samples from barrels and test the samples before certifying the resin for production use!!!

 

[Sniperhandle]

Just out of curiosity do you have the specs on the PB 2000?

• Pro-Bed 2000 uses only the highest quality structural additives. Pro-Bed 2000 does NOT contain talc or anything that does not enhance structural integrity. The additives used are expensive engineered products, not cheap fillers.
• The additives used are designed to:
  • reduce shrinkage
  • reduce warpage
  • increase compressive strength
  • increase flexural strength
• The high compression strength microspheres used are perfectly round and will roll over each other. This results in an easy to mix formula with even distribution that requires very little liquid epoxy resin to lubricate the spheres so that they can flow.
• The size of the microspheres used in Pro-Bed 2000 range from 3 to 25 microns in diameter. Because of this size distribution, there are very small spheres between the larger spheres displacing even more epoxy resin.
• The shrinkage problem is eliminated and compressive strength is enhanced to more resemble the compressive strength of the microspheres by displacing more of the epoxy resin. The crush strength of the microspheres ranges from 10,000 to 60,000 PSI.
• The microspheres are surface treated so they bond well with the epoxy resin.
• The type and compatibility of the resin and structural additives used in Pro-Bed 2000 results in a cured epoxy that is not brittle. The cured epoxy can easily be carved, ground, or machined without softening or chipping, even in very thin sections.

In reality I would say in the 6000 to 8000 psi range.

 

[Bronsin]

My normal bedding compound was AcraGlass Gel. Had no problems with it, but decided to try Pro Bed 2000. Noticed right away it was a stiffer epoxy, about like playdough. It did a fantastic job! Would have no hesitation in using it again.

 

[Wild Bill IV]

What are you using to mix it? I've recently started taking a stiff putty knife and wrapping it in blue masking tape. I have not used the pro bed but I can squish epoxy flat when I mix it and push out air bubbles at the same time. This would really only be for thicker compounds.
After I pull the tape off the epoxy is gone. Some of the thinner epoxies, when mixed in a cup, will remained unmixed on the surface of the cup and if it's scraped into your part, some may not set up.

Use tongue depressers or wooden ice cycle sticks and throw them away!!!!

 

[Twdmar]

Use tongue depressers or wooden ice cycle sticks and throw them away!!!!

That works well for thin stuff.

 

[Wild Bill IV]

• Pro-Bed 2000 uses only the highest quality structural additives. Pro-Bed 2000 does NOT contain talc or anything that does not enhance structural integrity. The additives used are expensive engineered products, not cheap fillers.
• The additives used are designed to:
  • reduce shrinkage
  • reduce warpage
  • increase compressive strength
  • increase flexural strength
• The high compression strength microspheres used are perfectly round and will roll over each other. This results in an easy to mix formula with even distribution that requires very little liquid epoxy resin to lubricate the spheres so that they can flow.
• The size of the microspheres used in Pro-Bed 2000 range from 3 to 25 microns in diameter. Because of this size distribution, there are very small spheres between the larger spheres displacing even more epoxy resin.
• The shrinkage problem is eliminated and compressive strength is enhanced to more resemble the compressive strength of the microspheres by displacing more of the epoxy resin. The crush strength of the microspheres ranges from 10,000 to 60,000 PSI.
• The microspheres are surface treated so they bond well with the epoxy resin.
• The type and compatibility of the resin and structural additives used in Pro-Bed 2000 results in a cured epoxy that is not brittle. The cured epoxy can easily be carved, ground, or machined without softening or chipping, even in very thin sections.

In reality I would say in the 6000 to 8000 psi range.

Use lab grade fine iron filling!!! When mixed with resin, they create a logjam effect and act as a binder and a filler!!! Much like glass mat in polyester boat repairs!! Minimal shrinkage and a huge increase of tensile strength!!! The spheres do not act as a binder!! Analytical geometry backs that statement!!

 

[Wild Bill IV]

That works well for thin stuff.

I've used them for Bondo!!! Cut the sticks in half and you have a straight edge and a rounded edge for application too!!!
When applying large amounts of Bondo for contruction, I used a 3" blade (knife) for mixing and applications!! Use acetone to clean the knife before the epoxy really starts curing hard!!! A little acetone on a paper towel and wipe off the epoxy!!

 

[LVLAaron]

That works well for thin stuff.

Interestingly, Pro Bed sells a set of three seashells stainless steel butter knives. They work really well.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I personally do not buy bedding kits!!!
I use marine grade epoxy, fine iron filing, and Pam cooking spray!!!! Been doing this for over 40 years and have not had splitting, cracking, or softness issues!! The long fine iron fillings act a logjam binder!! Just like glass mat in polyester repair on boats!!! The fine aluminum fillers are just that!!! A filler, not a binder!! The fine iron filling binder creates greater tensile strength and rigidity in all 3 axis!!!

All epoxies take days to cure to 100% cure unless you heat cure!! Most take less than 24 hours for a 80% cure depending on the resin/catalyst (hardner) ratio!!! Plus, in the cure process, amines films come to the surface, much like water in cement, and should be wiped clean!!!

How can you trust what I say??? I worked in a world wide battery manufacturing plant as an engineer!!! Used varies types of proxies for bonding lids to the containers or jars and sealing terminals called potting!!! Did studies on varies properties too!!! Did a test on mixing water in the resin to speed up curing!!! DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT THAT FOR YOUR APPLICATION OR YOU WILL NOT LIKE THE RESULTS!!! Too much water in the resin will cause dramatic foaming when curing starts!!! And, the cured product will be softer with the right amount of water in the resin!! Had a problem with bubbles forming in terminal potting!!! Pulled testing samples from several unopened 55 gallon drums of resin with the same manufacturer's batch number!!! Those resin samples were taking into the lab, where I tested those samples for out gassing in a vacuum oven!!! The manufacturer did not degas the product resulting in a breach of contract for out of spec product!! From that day on, QC had to pull a couple samples from barrels and test the samples before certifying the resin for production use!!!

Why are you yelling!!!??? Trying to relax and enjoy my Sunday morning and I come in here to all this shouting… Lol.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Here’s another thread on Pro Bed if you guys want to read more info and testimonials

Pro Bed 2000

So I bedded a rifle with Pro Bed. I followed the instructions and weighed the resin and hardener using the ratio in the instructions, 100 parts resin to 77 parts hardener. According to Charlie at Score Hi this stuff is very forgiving on the ratio. Well after about 32 hours the bedding is still...

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[ChrisNZ]

By sheer coincidence, ran across this YT item yesterday

Worth a look as he discusses the relevant variables

 

[LVLAaron]

He makes a compelling argument for JB Weld... I'm curious what the shrinkage is.

 

[LVLAaron]

 

[Jud96]

One thing about JB is a lot of guys use it to glue in actions. I don’t know the facts of it, but when I asked a benchrest shooter why they use JB, he said because it’s easier to get it apart vs Devcon or something similar. I don’t know what that has to do with the strength or shrinkage, just one observation. I’ve used JB for other projects and it’s very thin and runny vs Marine Tex, Devcon, or ProBed so that’s a factor if it matters or not.

 

[LVLAaron]

It does run... but I like to use it for installing pillars.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

All of these compounds perform at much higher levels than needed for bedding. The shear, compression, adhesive, ext, strengths all are more than enough for bedding a rifle. The reasons you use them are more about application. For example, JB is used for gluing BECAUSE its thin. Devcon, while a great bedding would be terrible for gluing because its thick.