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Mr. Clean Needs Help

I've been making 20 LBC cases out of 6.5 Grendels now the problem I am having after neck sizing and turning is ...How do you get the Imperial Sizing Lube out of the case necks? I am rinsing the cases in rubbing alcohol but I am afraid that it will take some other mechanical action to get them squeaky clean. ::)

Any help for this basic problem?

Greg
 
Greg: You'll be surprised that there isn't "that much" lube inside the necks after sizing. Most of it gets wiped off as it gets sized.
I use a hand full of Q Tips and brake parts cleaner when necking up or down. Just run a real wet one in the case neck. May take a "couple of passes" to get it all out but it works. And you'll find out weather you got it all off if any powder sticks in the neck as you charge the case. Anything that will cut the lube will work. Brake parts cleaner is fast and easy. HTH, Mike.
 
NorCalMikie said:
Greg: You'll be surprised that there isn't "that much" lube inside the necks after sizing. Most of it gets wiped off as it gets sized.
I use a hand full of Q Tips and brake parts cleaner when necking up or down. Just run a real wet one in the case neck. May take a "couple of passes" to get it all out but it works. And you'll find out weather you got it all off if any powder sticks in the neck as you charge the case. Anything that will cut the lube will work. Brake parts cleaner is fast and easy. HTH, Mike.

I used an an ETOH dip on my last batch and it worked OK with 3 of 50 being a bit stick but I figure this bath ought to work. If it doesn't I'll go with the brake cleaner spray. I normally use Hornady One Shot on my loading but I don't normally go through a four pass sizing operation and neck turning on 223's.

Greg
 
And I might add, I don't spray the outside of the cases. Just soak the Q Tip and stuff in in the neck. The excess will run on the outside and any inside will run out the flash hole.
Set them upside down and the excess will run out and be dry in no time.
Or, try some RCBS case lube for sizing. It's water soluable and can be cleaned off with hot soapy water. Only thing with soapy water, it takes forced air or a hot oven to dry them out. I've used both ways and either way works.
 
I used a q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol and run it in and out before I take the case out of the K and M holder that is attached to the drill. Do a couple or 3 cases and change ends.
Jason
 
Thanks guys. Looks like I have a couple of options. My next thing to do though before the next go round is to drop by Bruno's and pick up a case holder for my power screwdriver. My hands will thank me!!

Greg
 
GLShooter said:
I've been making 20 LBC cases out of 6.5 Grendels now the problem I am having after neck sizing and turning is ...How do you get the Imperial Sizing Lube out of the case necks? I am rinsing the cases in rubbing alcohol but I am afraid that it will take some other mechanical action to get them squeaky clean.

Forget the rubbing alcohol. Don't try to make a simple task, hard and messy.

There are TWO WAYS that I know of:

One, while the case is still turning on whatever you're using to turn it, hold a Q-tip on the inside of the neck, and lube will be removed. Rotate the Q-tip for a good cleansing.

Two, I guarantee that when you fire form it the first time, of the two fire formings that you'll preform, [you are fire forming, at least twice, right?] that the explosion that takes place behind the bullet will remove it. :)
 
Outdoorsman said:
GLShooter said:
I've been making 20 LBC cases out of 6.5 Grendels now the problem I am having after neck sizing and turning is ...How do you get the Imperial Sizing Lube out of the case necks? I am rinsing the cases in rubbing alcohol but I am afraid that it will take some other mechanical action to get them squeaky clean.

Forget the rubbing alcohol. Don't try to make a simple task, hard and messy.

There are TWO WAYS that I know of:

One, while the case is still turning on whatever you're using to turn it, hold a Q-tip on the inside of the neck, and lube will be removed. Rotate the Q-tip for a good cleansing.

Two, I guarantee that when you fire form it the first time, of the two fire formings that you'll preform, [you are fire forming, at least twice, right?] that the explosion that takes place behind the bullet will remove it. :)

I don't have a power trimmer yet so I have nothing to rotate the case with other than my wrist. LOL I'll get one.

I'm not fire forming as these 20 LBC's are getting shot in an AR 15 and are not designed for a bolt gun. The thing is a 20 PPC on steroids and it is a blast to shoot. I just started load development with it and so far it shows some promise. Once I get my bench shooting abilities sharped up from their dull state I should do well. So far it has shown good enough results to deal with prairie dogs out to 400 or so and that is not bad comsidering that it is very hard to shot an AR off a rest as well as you can a god bolt gun.

Greg
 
GLShooter said:
Outdoorsman said:
GLShooter said:
I've been making 20 LBC cases out of 6.5 Grendels now the problem I am having after neck sizing and turning is ...How do you get the Imperial Sizing Lube out of the case necks? I am rinsing the cases in rubbing alcohol but I am afraid that it will take some other mechanical action to get them squeaky clean.

Forget the rubbing alcohol. Don't try to make a simple task, hard and messy.

There are TWO WAYS that I know of:

One, while the case is still turning on whatever you're using to turn it, hold a Q-tip on the inside of the neck, and lube will be removed. Rotate the Q-tip for a good cleansing.

Two, I guarantee that when you fire form it the first time, of the two fire formings that you'll preform, [you are fire forming, at least twice, right?] that the explosion that takes place behind the bullet will remove it. :)

I don't have a power trimmer yet so I have nothing to rotate the case with other than my wrist. LOL I'll get one.

I'm not fire forming as these 20 LBC's are getting shot in an AR 15 and are not designed for a bolt gun. The thing is a 20 PPC on steroids and it is a blast to shoot. I just started load development with it and so far it shows some promise. Once I get my bench shooting abilities sharped up from their dull state I should do well. So far it has shown good enough results to deal with prairie dogs out to 400 or so and that is not bad comsidering that it is very hard to shot an AR off a rest as well as you can a god bolt gun. Greg

You don't need a power trimmer [one of these]: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=481398 because you're not trimming, you're turning.

However, one of these will rotate a case at a perfect 180 RPMs: http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hardware-power-tools-drills-cordless/ryobi-1-4-in-4-volt-cordless-lithium-ion-screwdriver-125770.html and take the burden off your hands.

And, one of these would serve you well too as the case holder that will be dropped into the above powered screwdriver: http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/neck-turner-tools/power-adapter-with-shell-holder.html
 
I misspoke, typed, I meant a power turner not a trimmer. I've got three different types of those, a Gracey, a Dillon and a Forster. :) I will get the K&M tool or the Sinclair equivalent. Luckily I already have a power screwdriver that turns at the right speed.

Greg
 
Ya know GL, I've wondered that same thing for some time now. I use the RCBS tray system and have been happy with that.
But those that use Imperial seem to be the most vocal in it's ease of use, hpowever they never do come to a concusion on how the remaining Imperial Lube in the neck effects neck tention or how a lubed neck tention effects the whole bullet grip thing.
Most just say to wipe the outside and your good.

I certainly can't grasp Outdoorsman's advise too shoot out the lube?? Does that mean I leave the inside neck lubbed everytime I need to shoot? I mean after I shoot I have to size right? I need lube when I size right?

Or is Imperial only used buy the "Neck size/Shoulder bump" group, and it just doesn't apply to those that use an FL die to bump and body size ??

I don't git it,,It just doesn't make sence to leave lube inside a neck.
 
What I've seen using Imperial is if you don't remove "all" the wax, you get powder sticking on the top/inside of the neck as you start charging your cases. That's where the "Brake Parts" cleaner comes in. Real wet Q Tips cuts the lube and any excess will run out.
And any brand of Brake Parts cleaner will do. The cheaper the better. I just picked up a couple of spary cans for $2.00 each. (makes good wasp killer too ;))
If you're into using RCBS Case Lube-2, it works pretty good also. Being water soluble, hot soapy water takes it right off.
More work intensive no matter what you use or how you use it but it gives you more chances to inspect each case for problems "before" you start loading the rounds.
If you're full length sizing or just shoulder bump, neck sizing, use what works best for you. Just a little wiped on the shoulder/ neck area and wipe it off with a rag and a shot of brake cleaner. Done deal.
 
necchi said:
I certainly can't grasp Outdoorsman's advise too shoot out the lube? Does that mean I leave the inside neck lubbed everytime I need to shoot?

First of all, we're talking about what is done to remove lube from the inside of newly turned brass.

Again, if you reread what I said, that is, to use Q-tips on the inside of the case, when you have the case already in a turning device, the job is simple.

The second part, where you seem to be confused is that ONLY when you fire form for the first time, [if someone wanted to bypass the Q-tip suggestion], is that the first fire forming will eliminate the lube.

Why would you feel you need to put lube on the inside of the neck every time you shoot?

The ONLY time you need to lube the inside of a neck is when TURNING. Or, after UltraSonic Cleaning, where you'd use a dry lube to facilitate bullet insertion.
 
Laugh at me. But I've been using this system for years. Have a cloth bag made up, about 6" wide x 10" long. Place lubed and sized cases in bag, less than 100, 2 safety pins close the bag. Put in the Cloths washer with Levis, work clothes or shop rags. Run through heavy wash cycle. Remove from bag and place in kitchen collender and then in the sun. Let stand for ?? till dry. On sundays it takes 3 hrs (FOOTBALL, or NASCAR very time comsuming)
 
Ok Outdoorsman, Thank You
I git what you ment now about the fireforming new brass part now.

There's not a loading manual out there that recomends NOT lubing the inside of the neck when sizing in any many,,
So while I'm not a 20yr vet of loading, nore a real rookie, it may be confusing for new loaders to find out that they need no lube in the neck when sizing.

Matter of fact I kinda messed up some 223 cases a few years back experimenting with different home brew lubes. The inside necks got too dry and I actually streached the shoulder when the button pulled out of the case when FL sizing some 1x mil brass.

Some brass does need FL sizing, AR platform stuff usually needs a shortbase die FL sizing ??
 
I normally use Hornady One shot that lubes everything including the inside case necks. It dries well and allows powder to flow through the necks without bridging. I am sure it causes a decrease in bullet pull to some extent but I have not had any issues with it over the years. The HOS decreases the friction of the sizer button in the normal dies and THEORETICALLY will decrease neck growth during the process. I remove it from the outside of the cases with a towel soaked in ETOH and it removes quite quickly with that approach.

The Imperial Wax is sticky inside the necks and I was getting bridging of the powder if I was not scrupulous in its removal. I had been turning the necks and using a 22 caliber expander button to straighten the sized necks as the second to last step prior to making them the required 20 caliber neck. Of course since you have to expand the cases to let the neck turning mandrel get in the hole you have to use lube and lubing up the turning mandrel is a necessity. Lots of lube inside that neck and I'm sure some gets shoved down on the inside of the shoulder of the case. I ended up with this batch just dumping them in a jar of rubbing ETOH and agitating them a bit. Drained 'em and then sat them outside in the Phoenix sun that evaporated off any residual nd on the plus side annealed the cases all at the same time. :o

I'll be picking up one of those screwdriver case holders from my local BR guy, Bruno's, and be ready for the next go around when I make up another 200 cases. Needing a large number of cases is probably the worse thing about an AR in that you do loose the odd one and I hate that with a passion. I haven't lost a bolt gun case in a long time but I swear the ground squirrels come up and grab the ejecta from the AR port!

Thanks for all your help guys on this. I'm not on this board a lot but I do believe I will be back a lot more. Nice to have talented advice and discourse.

Greg
 

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