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Most Consistent Case Lubing Method?

I shoot Highpower, so I need to be able to lube a lot of cases at a time. I've been using spray lube on buckets full of brass. However, the consistency of the sized brass headspace length isn't as good as I think it could be.

What is the best way to lube brass to obtain uniformly sized brass?
I put 100 pieced of brass in a costco empty 35oz CoffeeMate jar, put a bead of RCBS lube on two cases and tumble in a Thumbler for 1/2 hr and voila--->even lubing including inside the neck.
 
So.............that's the secret of your fast loads.

Added synthetic propellant. :eek:
I don't load fast . I was taught you only lube the case on the below the shoulder area that is where you size . Never put any lube inside the neck.
I still believe powder should not be around any lubricant. Worked for the last 60 years plus . lol Larry
 
If he (the OP) has the expander in the die I would be reluctant to run a case in without some lube inside the neck. (as I said in post #23).
 
Mix 99% alcohol with pure lanolin using a 12:1 ratio in a spray bottle.

Put your brass in a ziplock bag, spray 4-5 shots in bag, and seal and roll brass around getting an even coat.

Next step is forget about anything you have ever used before as this the best case lube you will ever encounter.

Yes, exactly. To follow up on my earlier comment with a bit more specifics... I use the same mix/ratio as above. Instead of a plastic bag I got a 7x9 inch shallow disposable tupperware dish for lubing cases in. It spreads them out enough so that you can spray them easily. I toss in 100 cases, spray once, swirl them around by hand, spray a second time, swirl them around again to make sure they are covered, then that's it. I've found 2 sprays to be enough to let the press run smoothly without excessive lube.

If you spray them when they are still warm from the annealer the alcohol flashes off almost immediately and you don't need to wait to start sizing. I leave the brass in the tupperware and feed them straight into the press from there. Sizing dimensions are super consistent, basically no variation at all in shoulder bump down to <0.001.

Another +1 to make sure to allow a moment of dwell time at the top of the press stroke, and to keep that consistent from case to case.
 
" When sizeing the only place you need lube is on the shoulder of the case ."

" I was taught you only lube the case on the below the shoulder area that is where you size . Never put any lube inside the neck."

Now which is it ? Door #1 or Door #2?
 
" When sizeing the only place you need lube is on the shoulder of the case ."

" I was taught you only lube the case on the below the shoulder area that is where you size . Never put any lube inside the neck."

Now which is it ? Door #1 or Door #2?

i believe you know the answer to that.

there are a lot of very experienced shooters on this site. i have learned a lot.

but there seems to be an invasion of shooters with strong opinions who have no clue. you must be able to separate the wheat from the chaff.

if you must reply to one of them the best answer is Whatever works for you.
 
Alcholol and lanolin in a spry bottle. put my brass in a plastic cookie pan and ONE spritz for all of them. then I shake the pan. After resizing I wipe each case with a towel.
 
Alcholol and lanolin in a spry bottle. put my brass in a plastic cookie pan and ONE spritz for all of them. then I shake the pan. After resizing I wipe each case with a towel.

Instead of wiping with a towel I have a bottle of 91% alcohol that I spray the brass down with roll it it around on a towel then stand the brass upside down in a reloading block to dry.
 
Instead of wiping with a towel I have a bottle of 91% alcohol that I spray the brass down with roll it it around on a towel then stand the brass upside down in a reloading block to dry.
Did that too, then rethought as I was wasting a lot of ETOH and I don't do that many pcs of brass anyway.
 
" When sizeing the only place you need lube is on the shoulder of the case ."

" I was taught you only lube the case on the below the shoulder area that is where you size . Never put any lube inside the neck."

Now which is it ? Door #1 or Door #2?
Bad idea not to lube the necks, especially the inside. I learned the hard way. It may have been with a freshly annealed case, I don't remember, but I ran a bunch through my Forster F/L die which was set for .001" setback. One case (same brand and lot as the others) somehow got the neck and/or shoulder pulled out and was about .002" - .003" too long to chamber at the shoulder. The overall case length was within spec. I've use Imperial dry lube in all the necks while resizing since then.
 
Bad idea not to lube the necks, especially the inside. I learned the hard way. It may have been with a freshly annealed case, I don't remember, but I ran a bunch through my Forster F/L die which was set for .001" setback. One case (same brand and lot as the others) somehow got the neck and/or shoulder pulled out and was about .002" - .003" too long to chamber at the shoulder. The overall case length was within spec. I've use Imperial dry lube in all the necks while resizing since then.
Expander ball will do it everytime Larry
 
Imperial case sizing wax and a little dab on your fingers goes a long ways.

I tried to lubricate a large number of brass at a time by putting them in a plastic bag and spraying lubricant over them then mixing the contents of the bag. Everything was fine until one piece of brass was missed and ended up getting stuck in the die. I now use the slower methodical approach; case wax on two fingers and do one piece of brass at a time. It's slower but I know with confidence that I'm going to get uniform results and no worries about stuck brass.
 

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