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Method of applying dry lub between bullet and brass?

done111

I have been reloading for several years and just recently tried applying dry lub between the bullet and brass and have seen some better SD and ES at the chronograph. I know this doesn't work well for everyone but for those who do apply dry lub strictly for bullet seating, what is your method? I dipped the neck into the dry lub with ceramic ball media before seating the bullet. The dry lub then had to be wiped from the outside of the neck which added some time in addition to the initial neck dipping. I heard some people might just dip the bullet in the media and seat it, I guess there still might be some wiping of the lub off the bullet after seating? Maybe use a brush with lub attached, but how do you reload brush and how often do you load brush, and does it require wiping lub off brass?

I was hoping to get some opinions on how others that use dry lub this way actually apply it. Thanks for your help :)

Don
 
Get a small 1 or 2 oz bottle of molybdenum disulfide powder on eBay, it costs about $10.00 to $15.00 and will last quite a while. Then get a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol. Mix about 1/4 oz of molly powder in approximately 1.5oz of alcohol. (The ratio isn't that critical you can experiment with it). Mix it in a small bottle with a cap that will seal tight when not in use. Then take a small bore mop that just fits inside the case neck, dip the tip of it into the bottle and then lightly mop the inside of the case neck. Generally I can do 5 to 10 cases each time I dip the mop. When the alcohol dries in about a minute or two it leaves a nice uniform coating of moly on the inside of the case neck. If you don't have the right bore mop a Q tip will work in a pinch.
Done carefully I have found this method to be a lot less messy and more uniform than trying to use a dry powder lube directly. You may have to wipe the outside edge of some of the neck with a paper towel once the moly/alcohol mix dries but once you get the hang of it this method is quick. The moly coating left in the neck makes bullet seating very uniform. I have not experienced any negative effects on the barrel bore as a result of the small amount of moly applied to the inside of the neck.
 
One Eye Pete said:
Get a small 1 or 2 oz bottle of molybdenum disulfide powder on eBay, it costs about $10.00 to $15.00 and will last quite a while. Then get a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol. Mix about 1/4 oz of molly powder in approximately 1.5oz of alcohol. (The ratio isn't that critical you can experiment with it). Mix it in a small bottle with a cap that will seal tight when not in use. Then take a small bore mop that just fits inside the case neck, dip the tip of it into the bottle and then lightly mop the inside of the case neck. Generally I can do 5 to 10 cases each time I dip the mop. When the alcohol dries in about a minute or two it leaves a nice uniform coating of moly on the inside of the case neck. If you don't have the right bore mop a Q tip will work in a pinch.
Done carefully I have found this method to be a lot less messy and more uniform than trying to use a dry powder lube directly. You may have to wipe the outside edge of some of the neck with a paper towel once the moly/alcohol mix dries but once you get the hang of it this method is quick. The moly coating left in the neck makes bullet seating very uniform. I have not experienced any negative effects on the barrel bore as a result of the small amount of moly applied to the inside of the neck.
Click to expand...
bingo!
 
FeMan said:
I dont dry lube necks very often but I do, I have been using a Q-tip and Imperial dry lube. It works fine but I am going to try the Moly/alcohol mix. Thanks for the tip!
Click to expand...
I've taken to doing the dry rub approach. It doesn't impart nearly as much lube to the insideof the necks as a liquid suspension, so they're not too slippery. The liquid suspension works also, but going on seating force as an indicator, they may tend toward too lubricated. I suppose that could be offset by dropping a bushing size but the qtip dusted with plain graphite and swirled inside the necks seems to impart just the right amount. Thanks to the tutelage on this forum, I have ceased wet tumbling. Given the right amount of time in the vibratory tumbler, the cases look good enough for the girls I go out with. Sure I have to chase out the primer pockets but its not that big an imposition. The up side is the deposit (call it what you may) left inside the necks really takes to picking up the dry lube powder that I swirl around on the qtip. If I were wet tumbling to a shiny finish, I'd definitely go with the liquid suspension method however. The powdered graphite doesn't want to rub off on shiny neck ID's. To each his own.

Hoot
 
done111 said:
I have been reloading for several years and just recently tried applying dry lub between the bullet and brass and have seen some better SD and ES at the chronograph. I know this doesn't work well for everyone but for those who do apply dry lub strictly for bullet seating, what is your method? I dipped the neck into the dry lub with ceramic ball media before seating the bullet. The dry lub then had to be wiped from the outside of the neck which added some time in addition to the initial neck dipping. I heard some people might just dip the bullet in the media and seat it, I guess there still might be some wiping of the lub off the bullet after seating? Maybe use a brush with lub attached, but how do you reload brush and how often do you load brush, and does it require wiping lub off brass?

I was hoping to get some opinions on how others that use dry lub this way actually apply it. Thanks for your help :)

Don
Click to expand...
Did you ever just think to dip the bullet in the dry lube with the ceramic beads as you are seating, it works just fine and its quick.
 
There is MoS2 and there is also graphite that works in these applications.

Graphite, as in NeoLube #2, has been another very good solution to getting the friction coefficient and long term storage issues under control.

Like the suggestions above, graphite is applied in a volatile carrier solvent suspension. The carrier solvent flashes off quickly and you get rolling. YMMV
 
done111 said:
I dipped the neck into the dry lub with ceramic ball media before seating the bullet. The dry lub then had to be wiped from the outside of the neck ...
Click to expand...

I use the same dry lube, but not for seating - for neck expanding with a mandrel.

I wipe the brass to remove the sizing lube first, then there is nothing for the graphite and ceramic balls to stick to on the outside of the case neck.

It takes a few seconds to use a paper towel on the sized brass before dipping into the graphite balls.
 
I use the Redding dry neck lube and I use it three ways:
1) dip the case neck into the media, add powder and seat the bullet, and wipe off out the outside of the neck. Warnings: you don't want lube on the outside of the neck when you're done and don't ever let a ceramic bead get into the case.
2) dip the base of the bullet into the media, swirl around until you see a light layer, and seat the bullet. I wipe off the finished round but don't pick up much. for short bullets this can be difficult to hold onto the bullet.
3) Q-tip in the media and wipe the inside of each case neck. Again, watch the q-tip doesn't transfer a ceramic ball into the case.
 
For seating bullets in new cases I use the Redding dry lube mixed in the cup with #9 bird shot. Dip case neck in dry lube, wipe off excess on outside with towel in my lap and then brush neck. I then tap upside down case on wood loading block to get rid of any excess, load powder and seat bullet.
I had the extra cup for the birdshot from knocking the light as a feather ceramic bead cup off in the floor, Lol!
 
Capt. Oblivious said:
I use a qtip and Lyman's "dry case neck lube"
Click to expand...
+1
I add it to the inside of the necks after tumbling in walnut. Leave it in through the sizing operation and it makes neck expansion with a mandrel really slick. I then wipe out any excess using an old t shirt wrapped over a small wooden dowel. enough is left to make seating really consistent.

some of my friends spray a bit on a nylon brush to apply to the inside of the neck. I may have to try that sometimes in the future, but I don't change things easily.
 
I've been using the Frankford Arsenal Pure Ground Mica Dry Lubricant. I sprinkle a little in a 3" metal lid. The bullets I'll use are placed in the lid and the lid is moved in a circular motion coating the bullets. I then pick one up as need to finish the loading process. Any left over mica goes back into the supply bottle.
 
I use hbn , vibrate bullets and bb's in a jar with hbn powder, use a small bottle with needle like tip (not pointed) with mixture of hbn and 99% isopropyl and apply it to a bore mop for case necks....about every 5-10 cases reapply....also use the hbn/alcohol mixture after I clean the bore...patch with mixture on it, apply give it 5 minutes and run a dry patch down....
 
FeMan said:
I dont dry lube necks very often but I do, I have been using a Q-tip and Imperial dry lube. It works fine but I am going to try the Moly/alcohol mix. Thanks for the tip!
Click to expand...
Second this.
I wet tumble. Spray lube the cases prior to sizing. Then Q-Tip apply inside of necks w Imperial dry lube prior to seating. Very happy with the readings I'm getting on my force pack.
 
done111 said:
I have been reloading for several years and just recently tried applying dry lub between the bullet and brass and have seen some better SD and ES at the chronograph. I know this doesn't work well for everyone but for those who do apply dry lub strictly for bullet seating, what is your method? I dipped the neck into the dry lub with ceramic ball media before seating the bullet. The dry lub then had to be wiped from the outside of the neck which added some time in addition to the initial neck dipping. I heard some people might just dip the bullet in the media and seat it, I guess there still might be some wiping of the lub off the bullet after seating? Maybe use a brush with lub attached, but how do you reload brush and how often do you load brush, and does it require wiping lub off brass?

I was hoping to get some opinions on how others that use dry lub this way actually apply it. Thanks for your help :)

Don
Click to expand...
I use imperial and simply dip a pipe cleaner in it and then dip pipe cleaner in case mouth, I get about 10 cases per dip in lube.
 
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