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Barrel torque versus lub and calibre

I guess that my point is not that they will always gall, but that in several cases that I am aware of, they have, and I want readers to be aware of the risk. There are small parts of procedures that do not necessarily make it into written descriptions, that may be significant in the determination of outcomes. I do not so much doubt anyone's results, as suspect that there may be more to what they do than has made it into their posts.
 
Don't think I left anything out. I clean the bare action in the ultra-sonic cleaner (a rich Simple Green & reverse osmosis water solution). Clean/degrease/de-oil with denatured alcohol, or KG-3 Cleaner on both internal and external threads. Torque to 65/70 ft. lbs. I know the torque isn't what a calculation would say it should be. Still, takes a barrel vise and action wrench to 'break it loose'. Never had one seize, either. I've seen threads gall in other applications. I account my method to a tread that's not too loose, not too tight (as in diameter) and the high polish finish I get with the rubberized abrasive block (kind'a like Cretex). Extra smooth surfaces have less resistance.
 
If you don't use lube on the threads a stainless receiver and stainless barrel gall and lockup. Maybe not everytime, but if you haven't experienced it you will.
Butch
 
Like I said Michael, it is gonna happen. I did a lot of barrels before it happened. I was very lucky to save the custom BR receiver. I cut the threads off the barrel and rechambered. I had to borrow a tap to clean the threads in the receiver.
You go ahead and tempt fate if you want, but remember that I told you so.
Butch
 
after giving it some thought and reading all the good comments on this thread i've decided to lube . now my question is what lube is better and how much do i use. do i put it on the thread only or also mating surfaces ? T.R.
 
Michael,
I use this stuff. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm
I get a small tube, and an acid flux brush. I keep them in a zip lock bag. For barrel threads, I put a very small amount on one spot, and brush it out as thin as I can get it over all surfaces of the threads, so that there is just enough so that you cannot see the metal, no more. Because of the high percentage of solids, and because I have seen this squeeze off the threads, and produce a sort of washer where the shoulder action face meet, I wipe the anti seize off of the barrel shoulder, with my finger tip, and apply a thin film of bolt grease ( I like ProShot gold for this application.). Every so often, after removing and replacing barrels from the same action, I use an old tooth brush and some mineral spirits to clean the excess out of the action threads, and dry them with a paper towel. Before I start to assemble a barrel (to the action) that has previously had its threads coated, I look the threads over to see if they are still covered and apply a small amount (Usually, there is enough left on the brush.). Barrels are stored with thread and muzzle protectors in place, in a drawer in my tool chest. This keeps the threads from attracting debris.
 
Boyd thank you for the response ,but someone brought up an interesting point the other day . i also do bluing and dura coating would the grease leach out of the threads and contaminate the bluing job or coating ? prehaps it will desolve in the cleaning tanks however that station is only 212 degrees and the costic solution gets to 295.I wonder if there is a lube that is water soluable and would break down in the cleaning process? i will certainly give your method a try on barrels that are not getting coated . as butch said i got away with for 29 years no sense pressing my luck . T.R.
 
oh don't tell me. butch you are wise beyond your years! who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks .wood jaws in the barrel vise right . T.R.
 
butch and boyd thanks for the info on the grease . boyd i looked around the shop found some anti seize . butch found another product TS-65 moly . coated the threads lightly with each ran them through the bluing process after i assembled 295 deg. for 35 minutes .two guns did not leach with either product . very important to clean outside areas off well with grease remover, as neither product will break down in water. this means i should be able assemble first then blue and avoid any mishaps with finished product . boyd i might add the anti seize is comprised of powdered aluminum which does not mix well with salts. but i did not have a problem maybe you have had similar results . T.R.
 
butchlambert said:
Don't you assemble after bluing?
Butch
Click to expand...
The only time you'd dis-assemble before bluing is if the barrel is S.S. S.S. will 'sour' bluing salts. CM barrel/action assemblies are blued assembled. Coating is done with the components assembled, S.S. or CM. Even an extended trip into the hot cleaning tank isn't good enough for coating and may still 'bite ya' with spots if bluing. I don't remember the last time I blued and action and installed a SS barrel. That's just not 'common' in my area. Coatings seem to be the 'going thing'' these days.
 
i agree with shortgrass on this one . when i put the barrel on the rifle it is not coming off till it gets set back or rebarreled. now as for the grease and that barrel you seen that galled in a bat . if you cannot screw it on by hand without force that is called an interference fit . then your opening yourself up for galling . T.R
 
I'd like to be right too, could someone please tell me what we are talking about? ;D

In the meantime just a few questions;

After removing a barrel from a 1962 CZ there seemed to be something on the threads like shellac. Does anyone know what standard procedure was back in those days? Was there something put on the threads that would not bugger the bluing process but would keep the blueing solution out of the joint? Or is standard industrial procedure to blue parts separately?
 
Toz, we where talking about thread fits and grease . i mentioned about thread classes and pointed out to butch the difference in a class 3a and 3b fit . compared to an interference fit which would gall without grease . the next thread by butch was" You Think" and i with you i don't know what that is about .
the substance on the threads could be a lube that has cystalized over the years or a thread locker of some sort and that could be shelac or lacquer.
T.R.
 
Most factory rifles have something on the barrel threads. I honestly don't know what it is or what they are trying to do. I definitely heat those joints before trying to remove the barrel.
Butch
 
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