Method of applying dry lub between bullet and brass?

[6MMsteve]

Did you ever just think to dip the bullet in the dry lube with the ceramic beads as you are seating, it works just fine and its quick.

I do this^^^^^^it's easy and quick but the qtip is quick also, bout 6 cases per qtip

 

[archerforkids]

I do this^^^^^^it's easy and quick but the qtip is quick also, bout 6 cases per qtip

Once I got the force pack, I found I got more consistent seating force if I dipped the Q-Tip for each piece of brass. Obviously your mileage may vary.

 

[243winxb]

Is that a negative on the Q-Tips or are they good to go?

The Q-tip can apply more lube to one side of the case neck, then the other.
As a boatail bullet is seated, the lube gets compressed between bullet & the inside of the case neck wall. A slight bulge is formed.

Concentricity and bullet run-out are effected.

Depends on the lube type. May not be an issure, unless using something likes Lee Case Sizing lube?

 

[TrapperBR549]

Nobody uses the Forster case neck graphiter with the brushes?

 

[JEFFPPC]

I have experimented with lube, found no benefits on targets. I have two questions for those who lube. I saw someone say too little fiction when loading by seating force. What is too little? If it holds the bullet and the numbers are very close I think it's good. Second question regarding the amount of friction. Everything I have ever read states the first thing that happens when the gun goes bang is the neck expands and releases the bullet. So what does the amount of friction matter, the neck expanded before the bullet moved. When I started sorting bullets I saw a gain. When I started weighing to 1 piece of powder I saw a gain after 400 yards. When I started using a seating force gauge I really did not see a gain. I still do it because I have it, it sort of seems to make sense but I really did not see a gain on target. What I did learn though was every firing seating force increase as your necks thicken. I have always been aware they thicken and recut necks about every 5th firing. I now see how the seating force builds due to this. I have tried various methods of cleaning or polishing the inside of the neck and went back to simply 1 pass with a nylon brush. I am open to education, not so big on theories.

 

[mchees1]

I ultrasonic clean my brass so I need to add dry lube before seating. I make a solution of 99% isopropyl alcohol and liquid lanolin (from this forum - used as case lube for sizing). Use a 10:1 ratio of alcohol to lanolin. I then use Q-tips dipped in the solution to lightly coat the inside of the necks. I squeeze out some excess from the Q-tip by pressing it lightly against the side of the solution bottle before I apply the solution. I usually do 10 -15 cases before re-dipping in the solution. I hold the case with the neck down and lightly apply the solution around the inside of the case neck so no excess solution runs down in to the case. After I have lubed a tray of 50 cases, I then dip the necks in Imperial Dry Neck Lube. I rotate the cases in the beads to ensure even coverage. Then a little tap to get excess powder off the neck. I do wipe off the outside of the necks before seating. I also visually check for any beads that may get stuck inside the neck. That tends to happen if I get too much liquid on the Q-tip and inside the neck. If there are any beads, just tap the case to get them out. After a little practice you will get the right amount of liquid to get a nice even coating of dry lube. Takes a little time but works very well.

 

[LVLAaron]

Neolube #2

 

[Trevor60]

Good Day

BR shooter Bryan Zolnikov made a video on the subject...

 

[dusterdave173]

I use it straight out of the bead jar as supplied--it takes a little time for the stuff to settle in there --so that you get nice even application by just dipping bullet in the beads--I am careful not to "upset" my little jar--and I only use it on new virgin brass--after a firing the carbon in the neck seems to smooth it out good enough for me

 

[Charlie-NY]

Over the years I have used white graphite & nylon brush, moly powder & SS balls, and Imperial wax & Q-tips. I do not use an expander ball on my FL dies anymore so I haven't needed any kind of lube in quite some time.

 

[Longtrain]

Neolube #2

+1

I’ve wondered how to lubricate the inside of necks prior to seating for a while.

Neolube #2 does it neat and slick. Shake the bottle, coat a Q-tip, roll in around inside the neck. Done. Usually get between 5-10 cases per dip. IIRC “Winning in the Wind”explains that it doesn’t build up as it is applied, so uniform application isn’t a big issue.

I usually load just before a session or match, my ammo doesn’t sit around. What has it gotten me? Lowest SD as compared to non-coated necks, usually below 6 fps. Does that show up on the target? Yes, vertical shots have lessened and my waterline is pretty consistent. So, IMO it’s worth the extra step. One more thing, my concentricity is generally under .002, most hover around .001. +1 on Whidden Dasher sizer dies, I only bump .001 and anneal each reload.

 

[ChrisNZ]

A little tip for avoiding spill disasters with your jar of graphite/balls: I have a ring of sticky putty ( in my case BluTack) on the bottom of the jar and it really anchors it to the bench. Nothing worse than a heap of graphite splattered over the carpet..

 

[Martin52]

Nobody uses the Forster case neck graphiter with the brushes?

I have one, it uses mica, a very fine white dust that can cause lung problems. However, it works well lubing the inside of case necks before seating, I always hesitate before using it, not quite sure the trade off is worth it....... usually I will either spray a little Hornady One Shot into a cup and dip the q-tip or I put Lock-eze on a VFG felt. Both work fine for the purpose.

 

[Hoot]

I have one, it uses mica, a very fine white dust that can cause lung problems. However, it works well lubing the inside of case necks before seating, I always hesitate before using it, not quite sure the trade off is worth it....... usually I will either spray a little Hornady One Shot into a cup and dip the q-tip or I put Lock-eze on a VFG felt. Both work fine for the purpose.

I do but I replaced the mica with fine powdered graphite such as the ceramic balls (which I also have) uses. Works better than just the balls IMO. I rotate left, right, then in and out once. Seems to distribute the graphite more consistently.

Hoot

 

[Martin52]

I replaced the mica with fine powdered graphite such as the ceramic balls (which I also have) uses. Works better than just the balls IMO. I rotate left, right, then in and out once. Seems to distribute the graphite more consistently.

Hoot

Good idea!

 

[SeabeeKen]

I do a Q tip in the neck with Lee case lube and let it dry. Single digit numbers

 

[Cryhavoc]

Found this interesting video on liquid vs powder

 

[RegionRat]

Just to avoid confusuion on the word "liquid" or the form of dry lubricant...

In Brian's video, the NeoLube #2 is a powdered graphite in a volatile solvent carrier, it is not MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide).

In regular breathing air, MoS2 and powdered graphite can be very similar in terms of coefficient of friction, but they are not the same chemically.

There is a risk that the words "liquid" or "powder", get confused in between the application method type versus the lubrication type.

A liquid lube is exactly what it sounds like. It stays a fluid or liquid while it is being used.

A solvent carrier that evaporates and leaves behind a powder or other dry chemical residue that is supposed to lubricate is a liquid application method and not the same as a liquid lubricant. The lubricant that stays behind in this case is a dry lubricant or powdered lubricant. The liquid is only a carrier solvent used to move the powder and then it flashes off.

However, even liquid lubricants and greases can be applied with the aid of solvents that evaporate or flash off, leaving a coating of the liquid lubricant behind. This is often referred to as "oil plating" or "grease plating".

The terminology and chemicals being used can get confusing. YMMV