Mauser 98 - to push feed Q.

[Lee in Texas]

Here’s an FN single shot vs FN commercial standard 98. Single shot on the left.

Also, gosh that’s a pretty action.
The standard bolt is from a .30-‘06 with open sights. Redfield rear sight. I really like that rifle. I’m glad I’m among people who get it when I have a smile on my face just thinking about a fine rifle.

 

[ronemus]

I have an Oberndorf '98 modified for single feed. In addition to a shallower angle on the extractor bevel, the magazine follower has a bevel on the back corner so the bolt can override it; the military model is designed so the action is held open by an empty magazine. It would be more than embarrassing for an infantryman to close the bolt on an empty chamber (click, no bang, die).

 

[Jon Leary]

That is another mod for the mauser. grind a bevel on the rear of the follower so you can close the bolt when empty. Another good mod is the Wisner safety. I used a 1/8th endmill to install after annealing the bolt shroud.

 

[jackieschmidt]

When I did my Mauser project, I did an extractor mod to allow it to push feed, and kept another factory one to feed out of the magazine, the way it was designed. It’s in 280 Remington, and feeds, extracts, and ejects perfect.

I left the factory extractor in.

 

[Jon Leary]

Another mod you can do on a mauser is cut a couple coils off the spring that locks the bolt shroud. Makes it operate alot smoother.

 

[ELR LVR]

Here’s an FN single shot vs FN commercial standard 98. Single shot on the left.

Also, gosh that’s a pretty action.
The standard bolt is from a .30-‘06 with open sights. Redfield rear sight. I really like that rifle. I’m glad I’m among people who get it when I have a smile on my face just thinking about a fine rifle.

Thanks for the pictures although, The front , bevel of the extractor etc is not the problem
the width of the action inside (the slot the extractor rides in) does not allow the extrator to spring outward
enough so that the extractor itself can slip over the rim
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it works fine with the bolt out of the action
Not so with the bolt in the action
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I will show a couple pics again and try to explain further what I am seeing
The "OUTSIDE" complete and extreme "OUTSIDE" edge of the front of the extractor hits inside the action rails when trying to spring outward
It looks to need clearance to be able to spring outward so the bevel part of the "FRONT" of the extractor can slip over the rim
I will show a picture again of the "OUTSIDE" edge of the front of the extractor assy. which shows witness marks from hitting against the inside rail of the action when it tries to spring outward.
Perhaps it is that some actions have more clearance on the inside rail rather than the extractor itself being different? But I am not going to modify the action when worst case scenario would be replacing a bolt assy instead .
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Thanks again
FYI I am NOT worried or concerned about double feeding by accident if this is why they designed it this way

 

[ronemus]

A Speedlok firing pin (out of production) greatly reduces lock time. I also sourced a CG trigger from Europe (not available in the US) to have a really good 2-stage; that replaced a Canjar single-set that was OK. A Richards Microfit laminated target stock with foreend rail and an adjustable buttplate (custom design) completed the transition to a prone/3-position rifle.

 

[ELR LVR]

A Speedlok firing pin (out of production) greatly reduces lock time. I also sourced a CG trigger from Europe (not available in the US) to have a really good 2-stage; that replaced a Canjar single-set that was OK. A Richards Microfit laminated target stock with foreend rail and an adjustable buttplate (custom design) completed the transition to a prone/3-position rifle.

Thanks for that
I've already got an aftermarket Laminate Wide Forend stock
and a Timney Featherweight Deluxe 1.5 lb trigger on it
Fluted Stainless barrel
etc etc etc and it fires fine
I only had it apart to change the throat angle and freebore
---------------------------
Kind of like many things in this world that can be easily modified to work differently
Like if: You want 300 HP out of a 180 Hp Cummins 5.9?
Swap a turbo and install new injectors and suddenly have 300 hp.
boom done.
Kinda like that, and it'll still roll 500,000 miles even though that wasn't the way it was designed
---------------------------
I just want to be able to throw a round in the chamber and close the bolt is all
if at all reasonably possible
Looking for anyone who has done it
I say again, the issue is NOT the front of the ejector, ramp, ramp angle, surface polish, micron finish etc
The ejector is not skipping over the rim because it is not being allowed to
I would like to "Allow" it to

 

[shortgrass]

Mauser Rifles have been made world wide, Germany, Belgium, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Spain, Yugoslavia, just to name a few, and many times under war time pressure. Unless your bolt is serial numbered to the action, it may not even be the bolt that was in the action when the rifle left the factory it was made in. You are dealing with 100yr plus technology. And to assume every one was manufactured identically, in those many different factories, is wishful thinking. Some will have enough 'room' for an altered extractor to snap over the rim of a cartridge case, others not (war time production, meaning no more work was done, no 'extra' metal removed, than needed to make it a functioning rifle for the battlefield). I guess it must also be pointed out, that the steels and heat treatment of military Mauser rifles is not the same as materials and heat treatment of today. So yes, the 100yr old 'springy' extractor can break, not saying it will, I am saying it can. If you're the 'handy' guy you say you are, take the barrel off and file enough room into the action, alter the extractor, so it will snap over the rim. Or, maybe try a different extractor! They are only $50-$60 now, and not "in stock" everywhere there used to be surplus parts, like they once were....

 

[SBS]

Mauser Rifles have been made world wide, Germany, Belgium, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Spain, Yugoslavia, just to name a few, and many times under war time pressure. Unless your bolt is serial numbered to the action, it may not even be the bolt that was in the action when the rifle left the factory it was made in. You are dealing with 100yr plus technology. And to assume every one was manufactured identically, in those many different factories, is wishful thinking. Some will have enough 'room' for an altered extractor to snap over the rim of a cartridge case, others not (war time production, meaning no more work was done, no 'extra' metal removed, than needed to make it a functioning rifle for the battlefield). I guess it must also be pointed out, that the steels and heat treatment of military Mauser rifles is not the same as materials and heat treatment of today. So yes, the 100yr old 'springy' extractor can break, not saying it will, I am saying it can. If you're the 'handy' guy you say you are, take the barrel off and file enough room into the action, alter the extractor, so it will snap over the rim. Or, maybe try a different extractor! They are only $50-$60 now, and not "in stock" everywhere there used to be surplus parts, like they once were....

Yup, the basic design is the same, but tolerances vary a lot. If I remember correctly, over 100 million 98 type Mausers were made in over 20 countries over a period exceeding 50 years. So dimensions vary, even in the same configuration (small ring, large ring, standard length, intermediate length and various combinations of these).

 

[Fast14riot]

Shouldn't be much of an issue to grind on the outside end of the extractor, as long as you stay forward of the thin spring section. Paint it with sharpie, throw a case in the chamber and try to close it several times to see how far it needs to go to clear the rim and not bottom out in the raceway.

 

[ELR LVR]

Shouldn't be much of an issue to grind on the outside end of the extractor, as long as you stay forward of the thin spring section. Paint it with sharpie, throw a case in the chamber and try to close it several times to see how far it needs to go to clear the rim and not bottom out in the raceway.

Thanks,
This is exactly what I was thinking of doing
Just wondered before I do, if anyone else had done the same with good results
or bad results

 

[C Bomboy]

Might want to look at a Ruger 77 tang safety, extractor for ideas, since it uses a modified Mauser type extractor for push feeding..

 

[Jon Leary]

Might want to look at a Ruger 77 tang safety extractor for ideas, since it uses a modified Mauser type safety for push feeding

I like the Wisner safety

 

[C Bomboy]

I like the Wisner safety

Yes those are a nice upgrade.

 

[shortgrass]

Parkwest, (Dakota Arms) has their 3 position safety for Mauser '98s back in production again.