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Making a 700 action a little less heavy handed

This is my first post so please be kind in dealing with my ignorance of the subject I am questioning.

I have a benchrest rifle with a Kelbly Panda action. One of this actions atributes, among many that I love, is its ability to rack through the chambering of a round without upsetting the rifle on the rest, ie. requiring very little torque on the lifting of the bolt.

I also have another rifle that I have had built for benchrest but using a trued Remington 700 action. While I would never suggest that the Remington action will come anywhere close to the quality and smoothness offered by the Kelbly action, there is one little thing of the Remington action I am wondering if could be made better.

My Remington actioned benchrest rifle is much harder to chamber rounds than the Kelbly ((of course)). And I don't expect it to ever be anywhere near the smoothness of the Kelbly. However I'm wondering is there something that can be done to the stock 700 bolt to make it easier to operate (less effort to raise and lower the bolt) and less likely to upset the rifle on the rest?

A gentleman at the gun range that is not a gunsmith suggested going to a lighter firing pin spring. Don't want to go to that expense if that is not good advice.

BTW, this is an early 90's 700 short action and the rifle is chambered for 6mm BR.

Charles
 
I think this is what you are asking for to make the bolt lift smoother and make it feel like its lighter?

http://mbd.scout.com/mb.aspx?s=541&f=5539&t=13323832
 
.300WBYMAG said:
I think this is what you are asking for to make the bolt lift smoother and make it feel like its lighter?

http://mbd.scout.com/mb.aspx?s=541&f=5539&t=13323832
Thank you for the link. This looks like an easy project that I could handle doing. Not quite sure how to clean/buff the threads up though.

Thanks, Charles
 
Guys, he said it's hard on close as well, I think he should start with F/L sizing his brass and bumping his shoulders back a little more.

Dans40X is the man to do it for you. He has been around the block, get in touch with him and have him time your bolt as well.
 
.300WBYMAG said:
I would just start with the cocking surfaces and see how that turns out.
Okay, polished the cocking surfaces as indicated in the link that you gave me. Actually, looking at those surfaces before polishing them didn't show a lot of wear since the bolt, from new, has always been well cleaned and properly lubed/greezed before use. Anyway I did notice a slight positive difference after polishing the cocking surfaces.

My next step will be lapping the threads.

I read another forum thread where it was showing that you could lessen the angle of the cocking ramp a bit and cut down on the height of the hump before the recess/indent. It's the height of that hump that makes closing the bolt hard first. Looking at my panda bolt I see that that is exactly what they have done to make that action cycle so smoothly and effortlessly. Of course this would be a job for a gunsmith that has done this sort of thing before.

Anyway, next step is lapping the threads. Any suggestion on what lapping compound to use for this?

Charles
 
mac37 said:
Sounds like you need to take a coil off the firing pin spring.
It had been suggested to me to put a lighter spring in but no one has stepped up to confirm if that is a plausible direction to go.
 
Erik Cortina said:
Guys, he said it's hard on close as well, I think he should start with F/L sizing his brass and bumping his shoulders back a little more.

Dans40X is the man to do it for you. He has been around the block, get in touch with him and have him time your bolt as well.
Its the same loaded or not. I run my brass through a Harrell full length bump die made specifically for this chamber. With the firing pin removed, my bolt falls down without any resistance on a resized case that has been bumped just enough to where the bolt will just bottom out without any help from me.
 
cbratcliffe said:
.300WBYMAG said:
I would just start with the cocking surfaces and see how that turns out.
Okay, polished the cocking surfaces as indicated in the link that you gave me. Actually, looking at those surfaces before polishing them didn't show a lot of wear since the bolt, from new, has always been well cleaned and properly lubed/greezed before use. Anyway I did notice a slight positive difference after polishing the cocking surfaces.

My next step will be lapping the threads.

I read another forum thread where it was showing that you could lessen the angle of the cocking ramp a bit and cut down on the height of the hump before the recess/indent. It's the height of that hump that makes closing the bolt hard first. Looking at my panda bolt I see that that is exactly what they have done to make that action cycle so smoothly and effortlessly. Of course this would be a job for a gunsmith that has done this sort of thing before.

Anyway, next step is lapping the threads. Any suggestion on what lapping compound to use for this?

Charles

No, once you close the bolt, the trigger sear catches the firing pin and it is no longer in the "hump" when you close the bolt, unless your bolt is not timed properly.
 
Erik Cortina said:
cbratcliffe said:
.300WBYMAG said:
I would just start with the cocking surfaces and see how that turns out.
Okay, polished the cocking surfaces as indicated in the link that you gave me. Actually, looking at those surfaces before polishing them didn't show a lot of wear since the bolt, from new, has always been well cleaned and properly lubed/greezed before use. Anyway I did notice a slight positive difference after polishing the cocking surfaces.

My next step will be lapping the threads.

I read another forum thread where it was showing that you could lessen the angle of the cocking ramp a bit and cut down on the height of the hump before the recess/indent. It's the height of that hump that makes closing the bolt hard first. Looking at my panda bolt I see that that is exactly what they have done to make that action cycle so smoothly and effortlessly. Of course this would be a job for a gunsmith that has done this sort of thing before.

Anyway, next step is lapping the threads. Any suggestion on what lapping compound to use for this?

Charles

No, once you close the bolt, the trigger sear catches the firing pin and it is no longer in the "hump" when you close the bolt, unless your bolt is not timed properly.
You were right Erik, I see that now. Then I assume I have a timing problem also.

Charles
 
Dans40X said:
Quite simple.....actually!!!
I went to your website and check everything out. Let me understand one thing, you can time the bolt without having the action/gun right?

One other question, if you read one of my prior post you saw where I was mentioning that I had read a thread where people were lessening the angle of the cocking ramp and cutting down on the height of the hump. What are your views on that?

Thank You, Charles
 
cbratcliffe-
Enable PM's
or
Don't inquire/waste my time

The process takes approximately 30 minutes.

No Screws & No TactiKool baseball bat knobs required!!!!
 
Dans40X said:
Don't inquire/waste my time
Look, a simple view of my profile will show that I've only been a member for 3 days and undoubtedly didn't have my profile setup properly. I'm sorry if that offended you. After spending some time going through all the profile options I think, but not sure, that I have private messages turned on. But don't let that concern you because in order to not "Waste [your] Time" any further, I'm sure there are others that would appreciate the business.

Charles
 
Upon review of PM's-

cbratcliffe-
I stand corrected!
I apologize to you Sir, as it was not your PM that I replied to that was not activated.

Welcome to Accurate Shooter/6mmBR

Happy Holidays to All
 
Dans40X said:
cbratcliffe-
Enable PM's
or
Don't inquire/waste my time

The process takes approximately 30 minutes.

No Screws & No TactiKool baseball bat knobs required!!!!

Dan, my PM is active and I appreciate any advice along these lines. Love the work you've done for me so far.
 
Dans40X said:
Upon review of PM's-

cbratcliffe-
I stand corrected!
I apologize to you Sir, as it was not your PM that I replied to that was not activated.

Welcome to Accurate Shooter/6mmBR

Happy Holidays to All
Apologies accepted if you will accept mine for my reaction.

Charles
 

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