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Lubing necks

do you need to clean the lube off the outside neck ,so it is inside the neck only...would think that you would want to keep it out of the throat or does it matter?~Danny
 
holstil said:
Graphite via ceramic balls.

I use the above(Redding Brand) prior to neck expanding with a mandrel as I do not turn my necks. I do not clean ID or OD afterward however any handling and you will find the OD clean but not your hands! ;)
 
Powdered graphite on a q-tip after priming but before dropping powder.

Edit to add: I do this after annealing, the neck insides are clean and buffed.
 
double g said:
Does anyone lube the necks on thier cases before they seat the bullets and if so with what. Thx Double G

Double G - No need for lube. I stainless clean and anneal after each firing. I run a drill mounted nylon brush inside my necks to clean up any roughness caused by the annealing. I also use 0000 steel wool on the outside of the necks to smooth them some for the bushing die. After that, I resize with a Redding S bushing die and load with a neck tension of .001 to .002 depending on what I am loading. Bullet seating is butter smooth. Haven't seen any need for lube with my process and it works well. ES/SD numbers prove it.

Btw..... I really like that March scope I bought from you awhile back. It's been great. Best glass I've shot with for F T/R. Better than my NF NXS 12-42 I have on another F Class rifle. Thanks.
 
GG -

+1 on the powdered graphite.

I use an old Bonanaza inside neck lube case/brush set-up, to apply the graphite.

Wayyy back when, I believe the Bonanza inside neck luber' came w/ "motor Mica"

I have read accuracy test results, that showed more consistent neck tension applied to bullets when necks were inside neck lubed.

I only use a neck brush on the necks, do the neck sizing; then apply the graphite.

Regards,
357Mag
 
You shouldn't need to lube necks, unless over sizing, or over annealing.
And tension(gripping force as it applies to internal ballistics) is independant of seating friction. It is purely a matter of springback.
 
Mike I know you and many others are advocates of leaving some carbon inside the neck to even out seating forces (just a couple of passes with a wire brush to remove excess crud before seating). Do you clean the necks out more thoroughly before you anneal or do you just give them a quick once over with a wire brush? Just wondering if carbon can be baked on to the necks via the annealing process and cause problems.
 
After cleaning the outside of my cases and resizing (284 Shehane with a tight neck chamber) I just run a nylon brush though the case mouth to remove any dirty/loose carbon. A well know shooter off of this site recommended that I leave some carbon in to smooth the seating of the bullet (as I used to get the inside neck back to bare metal which could cause cold welding). I then seat my primers and then just put the case into NECO dry moly lube with the steel balls to put a bit more lube in the neck, rub any excess off of the outside. Then the powder charge and finally seat the bullet which goes in very smoothly each time with the same amount of resistance. Job done!
 
I consider the carbon in my necks as useful, and don't care to remove it.
A pass with a NYLON brush is all.

Lubing the necks won't hurt anything, as found by those who do. But if your stuff is setup right it won't help anything either.
Now if your stuff isn't ideal, lubing the necks could reduce excess seating forces, but likely at the expense of masking your 'feel' for tension variances.
A scheduled and quality annealing routine(with a machine) would then be warranted to make up for this.

My bullets are usually WS2 coated which is fairly slippery. But I have very sensitive measurement of my seating forces, and can still 'see' tension changes from hardened brass springback. I can also adjust each to match the lot through sizing length and Sinclair mandrel expansion.
 
Don, you can have (free) my neck lube graphite and ceramic. If you want it, send address.

I don't feel a need for it anymore, now that I anneal my cases. I was trying to use it to keep seating forces equal.

I feel the same as mike, I don't mind having some carbon in there.
I don't like how my cases squeaked when seating bullets when cleaned shiny, and I'm looking to reduce time at the bench. Annealing gives me what I want for tension and I feel good about all my brass being equal every time and I don't have to buy brass as often. It doesn't take as long to load into my annealer (Giraud) as it does to dip and look at each case.

Jim
 
Do you guys clean the inside of the neck thoroughly before annealing? I thought it was possible to bake carbon onto the inside of the neck if this was not done.
 
lurcher said:
Do you guys clean the inside of the neck thoroughly before annealing? I thought it was possible to bake carbon onto the inside of the neck if this was not done.

I always clean my decapped-but-unsized cases in stainless media before annealing, just makes sense that they be clean inside as well as outside beforehand.

I then buff the neck with 0000 wool to remove any annealing burnishing. Inside necks get a few turns of a bore brush wrapped with the wool. Then sized, wiped clean, a dab of graphite, primed, charged and seated.
 

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