Lube/Coolant for carbide lathe inserts??

[Walt Krafft]

When using a mister, a little bit is all you need. You don't want to create a fog in the shop.

 

[DaveTooley]

When using a mister, a little bit is all you need. You don't want to create a fog in the shop.

Been there done that fluting barrels all day.

 

[boltfluter]

For the most part I run things dry. I use moly D for threading and it works quite well and stays in place.
Paul

 

[skeeljc]

You havent had any problems with fracturing the carbide inserts? You apply it to the part?
Thanks Much

No problem with fracture. Yes, I apply it to te part.

 

[hoz53]

Be advised... there are knockoffs out there, skip them. Get the Noga. They're awesome to use on a mill as well. If you use Koolmist don't be afraid to double up on the concentration.

ok thanks

 

[hoz53]

No problem with fracture. Yes, I apply it to te part.

oh thats good-- thanks

 

[hoz53]

For the most part I run things dry. I use moly D for threading and it works quite well and stays in place.
Paul

Thanks Paul

 

[shortgrass]

At the RPM you need to turn with carbide, to take advantage of what carbide tooling can do, you can sling coolant everywhere!

 

[GenePoole]

@GenePoole How's that stuff react when there's other tramp oil mixed in from the lathe?

Must have missed this the first time through. Tramp oil floats on top of the coolant mixture in the recovery pail. I've been meaning to buy or build a tramp oil skimmer, but have been very successful with just some oil-sorb pads in the bucket. I got mine from McMaster or Uline, but see now, after a search, that Amazon has these pretty cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Aain-LT011-Spill-Absorbent-Length/dp/B08HM79H96/ref=asc_df_B08HM79H96

 

[LVLAaron]

Thanks. Some day I'll work up the nuts to use my coolant system. It'd sure be handy for parting and drilling.

 

[Walt Krafft]

When turning with carbide inserts, the nose radius makes a big difference. .015 is usually the biggest I use, ccmt351. My main insert is a .008 nose, ccmt3505.

 

[xr650rRider]

Thanks. Some day I'll work up the nuts to use my coolant system. It'd sure be handy for parting and drilling.

Dipping and then dragging a flux brush in the cut works well for parting and drilling a blind hole, give it a squirt with an oil can, you have to retract drill eventually. If you have a thru hole, just keep squirting with oil occasionally and drill away. Now if you want to look like CNC machining center, close the plexiglass doors and turn the flow up.

 

[Walt Krafft]

There is a difference between a little flow from a tool room lathes coolant system, and a cnc lathes full flow system in an enclosure. There is a flow control valve for a reason. A little flow can work way better than a dab with a paint brush.

 

[dnellans]

Is that a CCMT insert? You can use a CCGT and have a better finish. Precision Matthews master turning kit had both CCMT and CCGT. CCGT says for aluminum but they work very well on 416 stainless just as well. One $2 insert lasts several barrels with no coolant.

@Bamban gave me a couple uncoated one day while i was visiting him.

For us hobbyists/prosumers who could care less about the life of an insert in terms of cost, the difference in sharpness and quality of cut is astounding.

 

[hoz53]

When turning with carbide inserts, the nose radius makes a big difference. .015 is usually the biggest I use, ccmt351. My main insert is a .008 nose, ccmt3505.

Thanks Walt— That is the kind of info that helps alot. I will look into those. — K Hummel

 

[itchyTF]

@GenePoole How's that stuff react when there's other tramp oil mixed in from the lathe?

@hoz53 I'm personally not a fan of water splashing everywhere in my shop. Check out a noga mini cool

https://www.amazon.com/MC17001-Mini-Cool-Single-Cutting-Applicator/dp/B005P07TSQ

I bought one of those a while ago but haven’t used it yet. I recall the instructions said something about the coolant tank shouldn’t be above the valve or be below ? Inches. I haven’t found a container yet and with my setup, not sure where to mount it. I’d like to be able to use it with the mill as well. Any advice?

 

[LVLAaron]

The tank should be below it. I use a gallon water jug.

 

[tobnpr]

Must have missed this the first time through. Tramp oil floats on top of the coolant mixture in the recovery pail. I've been meaning to buy or build a tramp oil skimmer, but have been very successful with just some oil-sorb pads in the bucket. I got mine from McMaster or Uline, but see now, after a search, that Amazon has these pretty cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Aain-LT011-Spill-Absorbent-Length/dp/B08HM79H96/ref=asc_df_B08HM79H96

I've been hesitant to run with flood coolant due to the same question. But the specs for the Hocut say:
It provides corrosion protection without staining and affords good lubrication for machine ways and indexing mechanisms.

So if this stuff is a lubricant, as well as a coolant- and I don't need to slather my ways with way oil might be an option.

You run a SB 13, correct? Was that factory set-up for coolant, or did you modify the chip tray?

 

[GenePoole]

It's a South Bend 13 from about 1966. It had no coolant capability to begin with. The chip tray has a hole in the far corner and seems to be designed such that with the lathe level, all fluids run toward this hole. I have a felt-like filter in the funnel under this hole, plus a small piece of absorbent pad to act as the first tramp oil/chip filter.

As for coolant as a way lubricant, I don't see that happening. Maybe on a CNC with huge flood capabilities, but I still lube my ways with Mobile Vactra 2.

 

[itchyTF]

The tank should be below it. I use a gallon water jug.

How far below can the “tank” be and still work? I can’t find reference to it, but what is the air pressure range supposed to be?