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Long range varmint scope choice

And do you have a preference of maximum objective lens size? I'm asking because I'm old school. Nothing larger than 40 mm on my hardware, but from what you've described you'll most likely be in the 50 mm size. And a 30 mm tube has legitimate advantages too. Good glass trumps magnification.

What is your 6-20 and 6-24? I'll admit I've wasted $ on optics in the past, but once I returned to my roots, no more. Are you going to be getting very many shots on Mr Wild E Coyote at that distance?
I agree quality beats quantity where optics are concerned. I have some 14 x that are superior to 20 X optics and both are allegedly good quality scopes. That said, yes 50 mm I prefer although I do understand there are not huge gains beyond 40 and hardly any past 42-44. I'll take all the advantage I can get as my older eyes aren't as keen as they once were. I would prefer a minimum of 24 power but will go up to 32. Right now my choice is the Leupold 8.5-25x50 VX3 LR. It's around 610.00 OTD and tough to beat for that price. Still throwing around the Sightron S3 6-24 or 8-32 option as well for roughly the same numbers. Decided against the Vortex 6-24 in that price range as it wasn't as clear.
 
I originally wanted as much power as I could stand in the field but after using Sightron, NF, March, and many others all the scopes will change POI if you change mag levels very much. While this isn't a big deal if you're shooting 300-500 yards it's a huge deal if you're pressing to hit the 1k club.

Now, since I am playing around in F-Class I just use my f-class glass on my varmint rifles and learn how to read mirage and wind on woodchucks. However, this is completely impossible on the SD prairie dog fields as the mirage in june / july is the worst I've ever seen at times.

As many have stated above, buy what is in your price range and don't over think it. If it is exclusively a varmint killer I would go with a Vortex Viper or Diamondback probably. When I first shot them based on price point, I was impressed and they now sit on several guns of mine. Plus, If ANYTHING is wrong with it send it back, they'll replace / repair it.

All this said, some of my favorites are:

  • Nightforce Comp 15-55
  • Leupold 6.5-20
  • Nightforce 5.5-22
  • Nightforce BF 8-32
  • Sightron 8-32
  • Vortex Viper 6-24
  • Any Swarofski
 
Magnification is one of the lesser important factors in a long range scope. If that's your criteria for choosing a scope for true long range shooting you will be disappointed. I have a few scopes I regret learning this.
 
Magnification is one of the lesser important factors in a long range scope. If that's your criteria for choosing a scope for true long range shooting you will be disappointed. I have a few scopes I regret learning this.
I understand clarity is king BUT power for small targets is important as well for me personally. I think it's important to the bench rest guys too. I do believe quality and clarity are as important.
 
I understand clarity is king BUT power for small targets is important as well for me personally. I think it's important to the bench rest guys too. I do believe quality and clarity are as important.

They are, but when you have maxed your turrets out and need more hold and your turrets are moa and you have a mill reticle trying to convert and use two systems leads to potential errors. When your scope doesn't track and you've dialed several solution from say 3-12moa and return 0 and your zero is of several inches you have problems. I don't care if it's the best glass made if it's not mechanically sound it's worthless for long range shooting.
 
They are, but when you have maxed your turrets out and need more hold and your turrets are moa and you have a mill reticle trying to convert and use two systems leads to potential errors. When your scope doesn't track and you've dialed several solution from say 3-12moa and return 0 and your zero is of several inches you have problems. I don't care if it's the best glass made if it's not mechanically sound it's worthless for long range shooting.
They are, but when you have maxed your turrets out and need more hold and your turrets are moa and you have a mill reticle trying to convert and use two systems leads to potential errors. When your scope doesn't track and you've dialed several solution from say 3-12moa and return 0 and your zero is of several inches you have problems. I don't care if it's the best glass made if it's not mechanically sound it's worthless for long range shooting.
I haven't encountered that issue...ever. I use my Leupold Mark 4s for 1000 plus yd shooting on larger game or objects with never any issues of running out of turret. Between the 20-30 minute base plus the internal scope elevation, I have plenty of scope with zero issues. My issue isn't running out of minutes, it's potentially having good clarity and parallax at 1000 + yds on small varmints and which reticle seems to be the choice of some of the guys here on the forum. Just looking for new ideas or opinions. I guess I understand your point as running out of elevation would be inconvenient. Just do not think I'll encounter that with the 22-250 Ackley and the heavy bullets I'll be pushing. Most scopes I've looked at are 60-80 moa elevation. Even in the higher power models. Appreciate that information tho. I know what running out of moa is like. Had a 308 that caused problems. Luckily I had an moa reticle and it solved the problem. Thanks
 
I guess to simplify my point, a shooter really needs to evaluate what he is trying to do with his setup. If he is shooting a laser like your 22-250ai to a 1000 hitting paper and varmint his options and needs are vastly different than someone trying to kill a animal at 1800 yards. My 22-243 can use mils in reticle to a 1000. A 338 Lapua with a 300gr zeroed at 500 will drop almost 60moa at 1800. Lot of variables in a "good" long range set up
 
Something all too often forgotten in any scope is that the larger the objective lens the more light it lets in - at any magnification. So after you choose the brand get the largest objective lens you can afford. (some of the things you learn in astronomy are useful in other sports too.
 
The boosters work well if you follow their instructions to determine which one is best for your vision. I use one on a 36 weaver and it helps but for varmints I would look hard at the sightrons, they can be had fairly cheap used. Good luck.
I think they will all work but what about resale value say a sightron vs a NF ?
 
Eric cortina just won a match in AZ and used I think a Kahles (sp?)
Don’t know if they have a varmint scope.
 
Eric cortina just won a match in AZ and used I think a Kahles (sp?)
Don’t know if they have a varmint scope
 
after a days shooting our group will find the variables set at 21 to 25x. consequently i have bought a half dozen old 24x Leupold's and had the reticle moded. i have some dots added one moa above and below the crosshair and a windage line an moa out to the side. mostly we dial but an moa dot allows fine tuning.

a 6.5-20x leup has never left me felling under scoped but a 6-18 will.
 
I recently switched from a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25 to a Sightron S-III 8-32 with the MOA1 reticle for my long range (1000 yds. +) shooting and couldn't be happier. The MOA1 is no longer offered, however Sightron will change the reticle for $175. This is the best reticle I have found for small targets at longer ranges.
 

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