Lee collet die vs bushing die
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
Use a Forster shoulder bump die with a bushing to size the neck and bump the shoulder back about .002. It is the only die I know that does both of those without sizing the body.
jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
This has been my experience:
The Lee Collet die requires no lube, and will give you a straighter neck than a bushing die will. I use the LCD in conjunction with a Redding body die, because I don't just neck size anything.
Redding makes their S bushing dies as neck size only, and FL sizing. So you could bump the shoulder back, but you will be sizing the case body at the same time.
Listen to the Eric Cortina video and you might ask why you aren't FL sizing anyway.
You can get custom Bushing-Bump dies from JLC Precision also.
Then there are bushing-body dies, often merchandised as FL bushing dies.
And there are also FL dies that utilize a bushing which includes the shoulder (as part of the bushing).
Any of these will bump shoulders with neck sizing. Just a matter of what you want to do with the case bodies.
Then there are bushing-body dies, often merchandised as FL bushing dies.
And there are also FL dies that utilize a bushing which includes the shoulder (as part of the bushing).
Any of these will bump shoulders with neck sizing. Just a matter of what you want to do with the case bodies.
[QUOTE..... I was under the impression that the Lee Collet Die gave the least run out. That is why I am neck sizing.[/QUOTE]
That's my experience with the LCD, however you will still need to FLS the case when it gets too tight in the chamber - for that you can use a body die or a bushing die with the bushing removed, a 2 step process.
That's my experience with the LCD, however you will still need to FLS the case when it gets too tight in the chamber - for that you can use a body die or a bushing die with the bushing removed, a 2 step process.
Personally don't care for a body die sizing of the case alone. The one body die I tried on 308 cases, I found run-out to be more prevalent, vs, using a full size S die which bumped the case and sized the neck all in one alignment step.
Haven't tried the LCD, but it sounds like a winner from all feedback I've read. One could always use a full size bushing die once in awhile when a case grows too large and needs to be bumped back a bit.
ETA; Remove the expander.
Haven't tried the LCD, but it sounds like a winner from all feedback I've read. One could always use a full size bushing die once in awhile when a case grows too large and needs to be bumped back a bit.
ETA; Remove the expander.
Last edited:
Fast14riot
Gold $$ Contributor
I use a LCD and FL type s die without a bushing, produces very low to zero runout, even on long cases like 30-06 that can become banana shaped at times.
Usually F/L dies squash necks down more than needed. Best to let the Lee Collet Die squash the brass neck around the mandrel in the collet die as needed. The collet is basically a tube that projects below the body of the die and when the ram/shell holder is forced against the tube/collet the top of the collet with fingers is forced upwards into an inverted steel cone and the fingers of the collet compress the brass neck around the mandrel for a proper fit, somewhat independent of neck wall thickness. Best to use properly annealed brass and proceed at a measured pace to minimize brass spring back. I now use a combo of Redding body dies and Lee Collet dies for my operations; the exceptions being wildcats like the .20 P, 6.5-06 & .375-.338 and for those I turn necks to fit and skip using an expander button. If Lee made a 6.5-06 Collet die I would use a .270 F/L die wo expander as a body die.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Just get a good fl bushing die and do it in one step. No runout and no neck sizing woes
I like my Redding .223 F/L bushing die that I use for my .20 P.
I can neck down .223 brass using a .226 bushing with expander ball in die, then carefully measure & turn the necks for desired degree of neck tension (the fixed bushing), then forget about using the expander ball for successive reloads. I get real good brass life with minimum neck work hardening. Neck wall thicknesses vary for different .223 brass.
Or
I can run brass through a body die, then through a Lee Collet die, then just neck turn enough to clean up, then seat bullets. The inside neck diameters are uniform, independent of neck wall thicknesses, because the collet (contracts) is not fixed like a bushing and squashes the neck around a mandrel.
Resetting a neck turner to within .001 is touchy. Be sure a bullet slip fits inside a fired case.
All of the above, bushing & collet give good results provided work hardening/spring back is managed - anneal.
Custom Lee 6.5-06 Collet die used with .270 F/L die wo expander or Redding .25-06 F/L bushing die with .288 bushing?
I can neck down .223 brass using a .226 bushing with expander ball in die, then carefully measure & turn the necks for desired degree of neck tension (the fixed bushing), then forget about using the expander ball for successive reloads. I get real good brass life with minimum neck work hardening. Neck wall thicknesses vary for different .223 brass.
Or
I can run brass through a body die, then through a Lee Collet die, then just neck turn enough to clean up, then seat bullets. The inside neck diameters are uniform, independent of neck wall thicknesses, because the collet (contracts) is not fixed like a bushing and squashes the neck around a mandrel.
Resetting a neck turner to within .001 is touchy. Be sure a bullet slip fits inside a fired case.
All of the above, bushing & collet give good results provided work hardening/spring back is managed - anneal.
Custom Lee 6.5-06 Collet die used with .270 F/L die wo expander or Redding .25-06 F/L bushing die with .288 bushing?
Yep. While I haven't gotten around trying the new LC Dies, I've had pretty good luck of getting my share of 5 shot 1/4" groups using Redding "S" FL bushing dies with the expander ball removed. Most of my rifle chambers do NOT like tight fitting fire-formed fitting cases. (Only one custom barreled rifle I own actually likes it!)
I don't mess with no steenking inconcentric rounds! lol. Here's a photo of two Sinclair gages I use to first check the sized case run-out, and then to check the finished cartridge run-out. Cartridges are labeled and placed in a marked box, according to their run-out numbers from .001" to .004" . Rejects with higher run-out numbers will get used for sight-in chores or as barrel foulers.
What is the bolt on the gauge on the right screwed into the base?
It's called a grabayhickey. It's a handle to grab the gage off of the top shelf with my left hand so I don't have to manhandle the precision machined post and dial with sweaty right hand. Haven't gotten around to doing the other gage yet.
Sometimes I also use it as a flag-post to hang a note onto it for my wife to find; "If it matters to you, I went to the range to test some new handloads and will be back next week."
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.