Lathe setup

[Ncvarmintexpress]

Just received my grizzly 4003G and I can’t find a definite answer anywhere on getting it setup FOR barrel work.
I’m just wanting this to get started off on the right path.
This is my first lathe and I greatly thank you all for any help!

This will be on a concrete floor 6 inches thick

Should this thing be bolted to the floor? And if so exactly how will I be able to level this? (I will be using machinist level),
be on 3 inch diamteter feet with threaded rod with or without rubber, mounted to oak 4x4s??

 

[Papa Charlie]

There are more than just a few videos on setting up and leveling a lathe. Here is just one example. I would recommend that you spend a little time on YouTube and see what is available there.

 

[Shawnba67]

My lathe is older and likely worn some. Levelling with a machinist level did not agree with what cutting a test bar indicated.
THE ONLY MORAL HERE is to verify your setup with cuts. Those bubbles may speak gospel, but they dont remove metal.
I had a heck of a time getting confident I had set my lathe up correctly. But I sure had a lot of fun learning. Just had to move lathe, hope Its still fun setting it up again!

 

[savagedasher]

Most people are doing barrels through the head stock .
I have mine mounted on vibration dampers they are around $20.00 each

 

[Dave@MAM]

I have a G0709 and use six of these leveling feet available at McMaster Carr, (prolly other places as well), for the chore. Makes for easy, precise adjustments. I did have them under a Summit mill, but seemed to get better finishes with it leveled with shims directly on the concrete. Good luck! dae

 

[Danny1788]

I welded tabs on my stands to widen the foot print of the machine to make it more stable.

Then once I had it some what “level” I welded the two stands together to keep them ridged

 

[Ncvarmintexpress]

Thank you guys very much for your help.
That’s what I was wondering is if I’m going to get the performance from a lathe anchored to the floor vs adjustable feet

 

[Papa Charlie]

Thank you guys very much for your help.
That’s what I was wondering is if I’m going to get the performance from a lathe anchored to the floor vs adjustable feet

Whether you anchor or use feet, leveling the bed is essential to performance.

 

[Cloudrepair]

Most people are doing barrels through the head stock .
I have mine mounted on vibration dampers they are around $20.00 each

Do you have to relevel often? that sounds like it may be a good idea

 

[butchlambert]

I'll play devil's advocate. How do you keep a lathe leveled on a ship at sea? I would prefer mine to be level, but if you adjust out the twist, it will be accurate. It can be tilted in every direction, but if you have no twist, it will make great accurate cuts.

 

[Ncvarmintexpress]

Whether you anchor or use feet, leveling the bed is essential to performance.

Of course, I understand that. You haven’t told me how your lathe is mounted.
It seems it will be an easier task to me to turn nuts on the legs and adjust vs anchoring and shimming the lathe bed between the chip pan.

I’m wanting to know if the lathe will perform EQUALLY as well with the legs?
Seems as everyone here so far is using that method.

 

[Papa Charlie]

Of course, I understand that. You haven’t told me how your lathe is mounted.
It seems it will be an easier task to me to turn nuts on the legs and adjust vs anchoring and shimming the lathe bed between the chip pan.

I’m wanting to know if the lathe will perform EQUALLY as well with the legs?
Seems as everyone here so far is using that method.

Sorry, misunderstood the question. Adjusting a nut with a locking nut to hold position works great, regardless of feet or anchors. Shims are fine but you need to have a lot of different sizes and they should, in my mind be slotted to go around the bolt or stud.
What I don't like about anchors is; 1) I don't like to drill holes in my cement and 2) I like the idea of being able to move the lathe around as needed.

I would also suggest that you get the finest thread that you can and go with the largest and heaviest rating that your lathe can accept. Additionally, use the swivel type to ensure that it has full contact to the floor. I also suggest using the ones with the rubber feet to ensure that the lathe stays put. McMaster Carr is a great source for these.

Since we moved, my lathe has been in storage, I am looking forward to installing it this summer when we move again. It will be set on feet and will use jacking nuts and lock nuts to level and hold.

 

[ricco1949]

I guess I'm the exception to the rule.......I anchored my 4003G in the concrete with threaded Redhead fasteners. They stick out enough for adjusting nuts. I made a template out of 3/4 plywood to match the pedestal holes to drill and set the Redheads. I fastened it to the concrete mainly because I thought it might be too light in weight to use leveling feet.

Once leveled its performed without issues since installation.

If you choose to anchor your lathe make sure you don't bridge any concrete cuts or cracks in the slab or you will surely induce twisting...... particularly so if your slab moves with the seasons.

Rick M.

 

[carlsbad]

level isn't important. Straight is. And leveling is the easiest way to make it straight.

Heavy lathes need not be bolted down. light lathes benefit from being bolted down. I think you have the sheet metal cabinets which I call the light lathe. If so, then bolting down would help but isn't a must, especially if you aren't planning to do any heavy work. Although my lathe can rough in a tenon in 1 pass, I take the 5 minutes it takes to make multiple passes to ensure my setup isn't degraded. Assuming you will do something similar, I'd start by just leveling it on the steel hockey pucks that came with it.

 

[sdean]

How much difference can this make on 3 inches of travel?
Really just an inch of thread or couple inches of prebore.

 

[Papa Charlie]

How much difference can this make on 3 inches of travel?
Really just an inch of thread or couple inches of prebore.

It can make a huge difference, if the lathe is not level and well supported then it will cause chatter, poor cuts, misalignment of the head stock to the tail stock. When you set up a piece in the head you are striving for as perfect alignment as possible. Why would you want to start with a machine that is any less. To me it is like buying a plastic veneer and expecting micrometer accuracy.

 

[shortgrass]

Proper placement and set-up of any machine tool is just part of the details. If you are willing to ignore these details, what details of threading and chambering are you willing to ignore? "Oh well! It doesn't matter that much."

 

[Steve morgan]

level isn't important. Straight is. And leveling is the easiest way to make it straight.

Heavy lathes need not be bolted down. light lathes benefit from being bolted down. I think you have the sheet metal cabinets which I call the light lathe. If so, then bolting down would help but isn't a must, especially if you aren't planning to do any heavy work. Although my lathe can rough in a tenon in 1 pass, I take the 5 minutes it takes to make multiple passes to ensure my setup isn't degraded. Assuming you will do something similar, I'd start by just leveling it on the steel hockey pucks that came with it.

If you do any less than this all you are going to do is poor quality work& you have no pride in your work

 

[gunnermhr]

I'm surprised nobody mentioned grouting it to the floor after leveling it. I think it's time well spent. Its recommended in a lot of applications, helps add rigidity, and disperses the weight evenly

 

[TAJ45]

There are "machinist levels" and there are Machinist Levels. Be sure you check the discriminates, accuracy capability. You don't want .010" per foot.....