Lathe installation

[X Ring Accuracy]

The lathe could be hung from the ceiling. As Butch said, parallel is very important

 

[eddief]

To help vibration use hockey pucks.

 

[JRS]

A puck is too soft, unless your lathe is sitting on a floor made of ice ;D
They are made from vulcanized rubber, and are too pliable until subjected to the cold ice. Make a snubber from a coil spring and attach it to either end of the casting, then bolt it to the slab. Not only does it absorb vibration, it also allows movement between the lathe and slab under expansion and contraction. It works especially well where I live in earthquake country

 

[Tozguy]

There was a time in my life when I used to install machinery like this for a living.

First, use a spirit level. far more accurate and responsive than a standard Home Depot "Homer" special.

Next, when leveling, run the jacking screws out so you have 3/4" to 1" clear around the base(s). When the machine is leveled in every direction then build a "form" of 1X2" furring strips to enclose the gap at the base. Make the form about an inch or so larger than the base.

Then go purchase some machine leveling grout. Grainger would be one source. This grout does not shrink and most will cure to over 10,000 PSI strength. Mix the grout to the consistency of pea soup and pour in the "form until the grout comes up and flows about 1/4" higher than the bottom plate.

Let it cure for a couple of days then knock the "form" off. When it comes time to move the lathe it will involve some work with a cold chisel and hand sledge but all the time you're using the lathe you'll appreciate the solid mount.



This will do a far better job of damping vibration than just leaving the base sitting on the jacking screws.

Amlevin, just wondering if you received my PM ?

 

[amlevin]

In this case is there some adjustment possibility between the lathe and stand or do we have to go back to adjustments at the floor level?

In the event you need to re-level a slight amount just use shim stock (for full contact on the top/bottom surface) and make sure the fasteners are tight.

On some "lesser expensive" pieces of machinery, where the cost savings have been incorporated mostly in the base/cabinet, some improvement in vibration control can be achieved by installing a fairly thick steel plate on top of the cabinet/bases. Just set in place, mark holes, then drill out slightly larger than the original holes. This increases both the rigidity and mass of the base. I started out with 1/2" plate and in some instances ended up with as much as 1" plate. A magnetic base Drill Press (rental) makes for far easier drilling than a hand held with plate like this.

 

[GRCameron]

Late post - browsing the threads...

Once your lathe is set up you will need to do some tests to see if it cuts accurately. This article from 1956 summarizes things pretty well, though a bit simplified. The principles of the lathe haven't changed, just the bells and whistles and the paint job.

http://www.neme-s.org/Model_Engineer_Files/2899-Testing%20Lathe%20Accuracy.pdf

 

[xs hedspace]

Bed twist can be checked by using the level across the ways, front to back, both ends of the bed. Levels can be tested for accuracy by turning the level end-for-end in the same place on the lathe bed. Any bubble reading should be the same regardless of the level direction. Machinist's master levels are typically 18" long, and one line on the vial is .001" of in 12". Went nuts at the American Legion, trying to level the pool table with mine, until I found that my walking from one side of the table to the other, would move the bubble 1 1/2 lines.

 

[amlevin]

Went nuts at the American Legion, trying to level the pool table with mine, until I found that my walking from one side of the table to the other, would move the bubble 1 1/2 lines.

I'd be careful playing against any large player. He could walk around the table while you're shooting and make the ball go towards him. Any chance this was in a second story room?