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LabRadar Questions

I really like my LabRadar, but it is temperamental.

I called them and they said that if the velocity is below 1600, you should be in pistol mode. I am developing loads for a 300 BLK ranging from subsonic to 110 gr. (2400 fps)

So, while testing a starting load for 155 gr. bullet, load I started in pistol mode. The velocity had an avg. of 545 (547, 460, 616, 558) in this mode, which was clearly not right. I put it in rifle mode and the next five rounds were at an avg. vel. of 1812 (1795, 1796, 1868, 1809, 1794). A little faster than expected but reasonable.

Later shot a 190 gr. bullet while still in rifle mode. Did not pick up any of the shots. Changed to pistol mode & got an average velocity of 1411 (1411, 1418, 1404).

Today was shooting 5.56 (2900 FPS). Was in rifle mode and most of the shots recorded, but there was a string that just did not pick. No error, just did not pick up. Rifle or LabRadar position did not change.

Again, I really do like the LabRadar, but am frustrated that it drops entire strings of shots, and while there 1600 FPS may be a good delineation, I do wish that the 'dwell' was greater that 1599 to 1601. No idea why it just drops strings. Wondering if it is a power quality issue. I am using a Milwaukee tool battery & their USB power converter.

Comments?
 
Do you have one of the external triggers that you can try - I used to also have some weird triggering/reading errors untill I got one of those external triggers - now the placement of the unit is also much less of an issue.
 
The LabRadar is an exceptional device. But, yeah, its user interface leaves something to be desired and, indeed, its operation can be temperamental.

What was the load you put together with that 155 gr. bullet that was giving you the readings averaging 545 fps?

When the LabRadar was first released mine, too, would frequently drop strings. I figured it was a defective unit and/or sketchy software. More hours with it taught me that the unit works just fine, across a wide range of bullet weights and styles and velocities. But the LabRadar has a very narrow set of operating parameters, all of which have to be exactly correct in order for it to succeed.

First is that it has to detect the shot. piie above mentioned external triggers. I've not used one but from all accounts they make a big difference in id'ing the shots you make, while not id'ing those shots from other nearby shooters. For those of us using the stock setup, you may have to experiment with both the sensitivity setting and the offset. Both of those have to be right.

The second thing is that the LabRadar has a very narrow window in which it sends out, and then reads back, the radar signature. Which is to say, you have to have it pointed exactly at the target. That's much easier to get wrong than it seems, as the sighting channel scribed in the top of the unit is so short. Some guys tape a straw into that slot. Me, I'll back up six or ten feet behind the unit and "sight" the unit from that distance. Then I'll walk around to the side - still those six or ten feet away - and judge the "elevation" of the unit vis-a-vis the distant target. It's all really easier than it sounds, but it's also very easy to get wrong.

The third thing is that the velocity range has to be correct. There does not seem to be as much overlap around that 1600 fps threshold as one would think. Get it wrong and the unit won't see the radar signature. For those of us who shoot a wide variety of weapons, some of which transition across that 1600 fps range, that can be an issue (I encounter it, for instance, in my downloaded .45-70 Govt loads).

Beyond all that, the environment can be a factor. Are there obstructions or other objects downrange that might cause a "blip" in the radar signature? I once saw a YouTube video from a fellow trashing the LabRadar... he was testing it in a small rock canyon and it was no surprise that the radar signal bouncing off all those rocks would confuse the unit.

Someday we'll have a radar-based chronograph with more sophisticated software that is easier to use. While we wait, the current LabRadar does a pretty nice job... but demands a fair degree of thought and diligence in setup.

Good luck.
 
I’ve read all the complaints over the years but finally decided to buy one. Hasn’t even arrived yet but I went ahead and ordered the battery pack, an aftermarket sight, and external intertia trigger for it so I’ll have all the goodies to make it work correctly right from the start. The sights and triggers are cheap so i figured there’s no reason to wait on getting them.
 
Sound like an external trigger may help. I've done most of the things mentioned and am careful in my setup. Just confused when a string in the middle of a shooting session cuts out when nothing (alignment, settings, etc.) have changed.

The 155 gr. load was 17.8 gr. of AA1680. Actual velocity was 1784 (measured in rifle mode) not the 545 measured in pistol mode.
 
I use the speed square method to co witness the dot.
One good thing about using a low priced red dot is that you can tell at a glance if the Labrador
has moved off target for any/some reason. That little slot in the top is durn near useless.
 
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I've found my Labradar to not be very sensitive to precise aiming. Seems like the smaller the caliber, the more demanding the aiming but still, not critical like I was aiming a rifle. I just use the primitive notch built into mine and away we go. My unit was very unpredictable in terms of reliable triggering for any length of time, to the point where I was considering selling it. Then I installed the current (at the time) firmware update. Suddenly it became very reliable and has been ever since, just using the built in sensors. I find its more sensitive to position in terms of directly beside the muzzle and at the same height. That's not asking too much for its ease of use. I sit it on a home made, weighted stand, 12 to 18 inches to the side and its fat and happy. There is however one trap. Mine is highly unreliable with a rifle mounted in a Lead Sled DFT2. Something to do with sound reflection interfering with the trigger wavefront. Luckily, I don't use the Lead Sled very often.
 
I really like my LabRadar, but it is temperamental.

I called them and they said that if the velocity is below 1600, you should be in pistol mode. I am developing loads for a 300 BLK ranging from subsonic to 110 gr. (2400 fps)

So, while testing a starting load for 155 gr. bullet, load I started in pistol mode. The velocity had an avg. of 545 (547, 460, 616, 558) in this mode, which was clearly not right. I put it in rifle mode and the next five rounds were at an avg. vel. of 1812 (1795, 1796, 1868, 1809, 1794). A little faster than expected but reasonable.

Later shot a 190 gr. bullet while still in rifle mode. Did not pick up any of the shots. Changed to pistol mode & got an average velocity of 1411 (1411, 1418, 1404).

Today was shooting 5.56 (2900 FPS). Was in rifle mode and most of the shots recorded, but there was a string that just did not pick. No error, just did not pick up. Rifle or LabRadar position did not change.

Again, I really do like the LabRadar, but am frustrated that it drops entire strings of shots, and while there 1600 FPS may be a good delineation, I do wish that the 'dwell' was greater that 1599 to 1601. No idea why it just drops strings. Wondering if it is a power quality issue. I am using a Milwaukee tool battery & their USB power converter.

Comments?
Good info here- all you need in these posts—— I’m gonna get the external trigger- be aware it fastens to your gun and if you bump your gun it can trigger lab radar
 
Just a small piece of arrow tubing glued in the slot is all you need!

Joe Salt
These units seem to have a lot of individual characteristics. You can bet that none of us would be spending extra money on gadgetry to make them easier to use if they all worked as advertised.

In my case, most of my preliminary load development chrono work is done on my home range which is short, meaning I don't have a very large cone of vision, so to speak. I tried all the straw and tubing tricks, with limited success. So I decided to mount an extra red dot that was a spare for my crossbow. It worked, made it easier for ME to aim and seldom fails to track, .223 is the smallest caliber I shoot though.

Different strokes for different folks. improvidus , apto quod victum.

And I'm not cutting up my arrows. :)
 
For what it's worth.....I just helped another at the range
with a triggering problem. Sure enough a simple fix. He
had the triggering set on "doppler" . I set his to the
internal mich setting and the Sun shined again......I think
new owners see the word "doppler" in the settings part
of the manual, and assume it's the way to go.
 
Not to sure about your power supply? I went with a power bank I got from Amazon and had all kinds of weird problems until I got the right one. Pretty sure your owners manual tells you the proper voltage and output, this is what got me into trouble was the output amps.
Also I thought that the pistol setting just changed the reading range to a shorter distance, has nothing to do with velocity.
 
New guy to the forum here. My labradar is on the USPS truck today getting delivered and I'm curious what you guys use to transport them to the range in. Are you using the LR bag or something else?

I already have a battery pack I use on hunting trips, and going to see how the internal trigger works before I buy the external version.

Also, anyone use the base made by one of the members here, and is it worth the $85 to acquire?
 
New guy to the forum here. My labradar is on the USPS truck today getting delivered and I'm curious what you guys use to transport them to the range in. Are you using the LR bag or something else?

I already have a battery pack I use on hunting trips, and going to see how the internal trigger works before I buy the external version.

Also, anyone use the base made by one of the members here, and is it worth the $85 to acquire?
I use the LR cloth case. It has a pocket to hold the battery and any cables and the instruction manual.

As to a base, I use a Travel Tripod I got on Amazon, because my barrels ( 26") hang well off the front end of the table, and I place the muzzle about 1" in front of , and 2-3 " to the side of the center of the side of the LR where the microphone is located.

If you use the base, you have to move the butt of the rifle far enough back to get the muzzle next to the LR.....OR.... get an external trigger. Also it helps if you have the LR on a ball head to help align it

IMG_1723_Small.jpg

Note the 1/4 diameter brass tube on the top, which I use for aligning to the target.

DSCN1868_Small.JPG

DSCN1867_Small.JPG

The longer tube slides into the shorter tube, and stores in the LR case.
These are brass tubes by https://ksmetals.com/
available at hobby shops or amazon or direct.
 
I got one last year.

My key points I've found.

1. Got 3d printed aiming attachment for 15 bucks. Helps aiming a lot. The skinny tube as above should help also.

2. Must have clear sighting path. Long pieces of grass can affect it.

3. It needs to be 90 degrees from your barrel. Either to the side or below. It doesn't like being 45 degrees to barrel.

4. Must be mounted solid. I had an old tripod and it was too easy to twist with muzzle blast.

...i will be getting an external trigger
 
I use the LR cloth case. It has a pocket to hold the battery and any cables and the instruction manual.

As to a base, I use a Travel Tripod I got on Amazon, because my barrels ( 26") hang well off the front end of the table, and I place the muzzle about 1" in front of , and 2-3 " to the side of the center of the side of the LR where the microphone is located.

If you use the base, you have to move the butt of the rifle far enough back to get the muzzle next to the LR.....OR.... get an external trigger. Also it helps if you have the LR on a ball head to help align it

View attachment 1256678

Note the 1/4 diameter brass tube on the top, which I use for aligning to the target.

View attachment 1256681

View attachment 1256682

The longer tube slides into the shorter tube, and stores in the LR case.
These are brass tubes by https://ksmetals.com/
available at hobby shops or amazon or direct.
All good info, thank you. I especially like the brass tubes for aiming.
 

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