When at sea on the carrier.. the guys would come ask me for some Wintergreen oil to penetrate the bolts on the planes to get em loose.
Kroil, really?
- Thread starter mousegunner
- Start date
wildcat3d
Silver $$ Contributor
Plus accelerator, as I clean between groups. I.M.O.
Its like CLP cleans and lubs. Works for carbon at least, not sure on copper but 3K thru my 9 and clean it after each range day.. Easy to clean next time...
Brians356
Silver $$ Contributor
Is that what's in Marvel Mystery Oil?
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BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Back in the day when I only owned rifles with factory cromoly barrels, I used to clean for powder fouling, and then copper. My standard for powder was Hoppe's #9 until I read something in Precision Shooting Magazine about adding Kroil to the Hoppe's. I bought some Kroil and mixed it with the Hoppe's to 1/3 Kroil or a little less. The result was that for a given amount of brushing I got a lot more black out of the barrel.
When I told an older friend about my discovery, he was doubtful and so I told him that if he brought over a couple ounce bottle of Hoppe's with some room in it that I would give him some Kroil to try. He did, and I did. Sometime after that he reported back a favorable result.
Since then I have pretty much converted to stainless lapped barrels, that have very little work for a copper cleaner to do, and favoring the mildest solvent that will get the job done, have used Butch's as my primary solvent for more than a couple of decades without any problems. I do occasionally feel the need to use something else, but most of the time it is Butch's.
More recently, a friend who shoots a lot of short range matches, both group and score, told me that after he finishes the day's shooting, he patches in some kroil and runs a bronze brush up and down the bore, leaving it wet, until he gets a chance to do a full cleaning. He said that this makes it easier to clean the rifle and that he does not have problems with hard carbon. I think that it is because applying the Kroil while the powder fouling is still fresh and soft (like fouling on the outside of case that has just been fired) interferes with it hardening up just like the outside of neck fouling does over time.
When I told an older friend about my discovery, he was doubtful and so I told him that if he brought over a couple ounce bottle of Hoppe's with some room in it that I would give him some Kroil to try. He did, and I did. Sometime after that he reported back a favorable result.
Since then I have pretty much converted to stainless lapped barrels, that have very little work for a copper cleaner to do, and favoring the mildest solvent that will get the job done, have used Butch's as my primary solvent for more than a couple of decades without any problems. I do occasionally feel the need to use something else, but most of the time it is Butch's.
More recently, a friend who shoots a lot of short range matches, both group and score, told me that after he finishes the day's shooting, he patches in some kroil and runs a bronze brush up and down the bore, leaving it wet, until he gets a chance to do a full cleaning. He said that this makes it easier to clean the rifle and that he does not have problems with hard carbon. I think that it is because applying the Kroil while the powder fouling is still fresh and soft (like fouling on the outside of case that has just been fired) interferes with it hardening up just like the outside of neck fouling does over time.
I'm with you, Ccrider. I learned about Free All a month or so ago. I use wipe out and the accelerator, then JB's on a worn out bronze brush. Then Free All and a new bronze brush......borescope shows bare metal.
PopCharlie
This guy has done a lot of testing - there's a short series on penetrating oils.
This is not about removing the bit of carbon from one session through a previously clean barrel - for that you could use a carbon solvent or one of the pastes applied with patches. I'm talking about carbon that is allowed to build up over hundreds of rounds without proper cleaning.
The key ingredient to removing that carbon is not the solvent.
I've proven his to my satisfaction using at least six commercial products with a nylon brush.
Nylon has great polishing properties. It polishes carbon to a mirror finish as well.
The key ingredient is the bronze brush.
Any penetrating solvent with a bronze brush will remove carbon buildup. Pick the one you fancy, apply elbow grease and a bronze brush. When the barrel is clean, patch it with whatever makes you feel good - plain AFT, Ballistol, Butch's, etc.
For copper, the copper solvents applied with a patch work very well. I prefer to apply the copper solvent with a nylon brush and a few strokes, let is sit for some time, then patch out. Repeat if necessary.
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
I used to use Kroil and Hoppes on prairie dog guns. It worked better than anything I'd tried up until that point. Now I use Boretech Eliminator. It seems to be much, much faster.
Brians356
Silver $$ Contributor
So you agree nothing's better than FreeAll yet you still need to apply WipeOut then JB first?
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coldboreshot
Silver $$ Contributor
No "real" good comes from combo solutions (solvent/lube). The only point lube goes in is after all the cleaning. I've tried them back in the day, I discovered they're useless for effective cleaning. Its a sales gimmick for those who don't want to spend the proper amount of time. How can two separate mixed chem bases work effectively against each other.
True. I find it a little odd all the intricate cleaning methods with mixing and this and that to do certain things. I do the same every time and cleans fine.
3 wet patches of Butch’s
Let set 10-15 min
Bronze brush with Butch’s
Dry patch then two wet with Butch’s
Let set 5-10 min
A few dry patches
2 Kroil patches
Let set 5-10 min
3-5 dry patches and done.
Everything cleaned out. Actually took longer to type it than do it. Not adding in the wait time of course.
But I understand the voodoo people add to the simple process as it makes them feel better and if it does have at it.
3 wet patches of Butch’s
Let set 10-15 min
Bronze brush with Butch’s
Dry patch then two wet with Butch’s
Let set 5-10 min
A few dry patches
2 Kroil patches
Let set 5-10 min
3-5 dry patches and done.
Everything cleaned out. Actually took longer to type it than do it. Not adding in the wait time of course.
But I understand the voodoo people add to the simple process as it makes them feel better and if it does have at it.mikegaiz
Stay frosty, my friend.
I use 50/50 Butches oil and Kroil, for storage and dry patch before I shoot. Works for me. Long time user...
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
Ditch the kroil, purchase Free All with the spray attachment on the can, 14 oz. Free All has a chemical that will actually dissolve carbon, but it takes time.
Free All will shock the heck out of you on getting old rusted bolts off a front ends, or rusted on bolts on a tractor/horse trailer.
fedpro.com
Use the arrow and drop down to the 14 oz pump sprayer
Very inexpensive postage from the company.
Free All works to work through the carbon, and the carbon is in layers. Nothing beats a high quality bronze bristle brush, with a max of 100 strokes on it, 60 strokes does a better job.
If carbon persists, then to to an Iosso or Montana extreme plastic brush, brush with one of several products, JB, Montana Extreme Copper Cream, or Flitz rifle bore cleaner.
Different calibers, different powders, shot strings, Barrel quality, barrel erosion, frequency in-between cleanings, will all demand a very different approach in each.
The approach of one method fixes all is very incorrect thinking. A bore scope will give you a PHD in gun cleaning, but ignorance is Bliss....till it is not.
Free All will shock the heck out of you on getting old rusted bolts off a front ends, or rusted on bolts on a tractor/horse trailer.
Free All® Deep Penetrating Oil
fedpro.com
Use the arrow and drop down to the 14 oz pump sprayer
Very inexpensive postage from the company.
Free All works to work through the carbon, and the carbon is in layers. Nothing beats a high quality bronze bristle brush, with a max of 100 strokes on it, 60 strokes does a better job.
If carbon persists, then to to an Iosso or Montana extreme plastic brush, brush with one of several products, JB, Montana Extreme Copper Cream, or Flitz rifle bore cleaner.
Different calibers, different powders, shot strings, Barrel quality, barrel erosion, frequency in-between cleanings, will all demand a very different approach in each.
The approach of one method fixes all is very incorrect thinking. A bore scope will give you a PHD in gun cleaning, but ignorance is Bliss....till it is not.
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CharlieNC
Gold $$ Contributor
Ditch the kroil, purchase Free All with the spray attachment on the can, 14 oz. Free All has a chemical that will actually dissolve carbon, but it takes time.
Free All will shock the heck out of you on getting old rusted bolts off a front ends, or rusted on bolts on a tractor/horse trailer.
Free All® Deep Penetrating Oil
Use the arrow and drop down to the 14 oz pump sprayer
Very inexpensive postage from the company.
Free All works to work through the carbon, and the carbon is in layers. Nothing beats a high quality bronze bristle brush, with a max of 100 strokes on it, 60 strokes does a better job.
If carbon persists, then to to an Iosso or Montana extreme plastic brush, brush with one of several products, JB, Montana Extreme Copper Cream, or Flitz rifle bore cleaner.
Different calibers, different powders, shot strings, Barrel quality, barrel erosion, frequency in-between cleanings, will all demand a very different approach in each.
The approach of one method fixes all is very incorrect thinking. A bore scope will give you a PHD in gun cleaning, but ignorance is Bliss....till it is not.
My cleaning regiment has been evolving for years, with Free All as the latest iteration begining a year ago. While it helped with carbon better than other solvents, an abrasive paste was required after up a couple of fclass matches. Last week's match I sprayed and brushed ten strokes, resprayed and left longer than before for two full days, and after about twenty strokes all the carbon was gone. No abrasive required for the first time. The longer soak time made a major difference!
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
Charlie, If you can, use a wool mop, dripping wet with the Free all after you are done with the last match. Put a rag with rubber band over the muzzle. Let that Free All sit for 4 hours to a couple of days, then brush. You will notice a big difference in how the carbon comes out.
Last year, a friend passed and my brother bought Billy's Rem 7400 in 30/06. This 7400 had never been cleaned and the muzzle's bore looked as if it was gold coated. I put a cork in the muzzle and filled the barrel completely full of Free All. 8 Months later, I pulled the cork, and a blueish slurry poured out of the bore. The Free All had gone down beneath the layers of carbon and Copper and had free'd up the fouling, but some still remains. I need to brush it now.
Last year, a friend passed and my brother bought Billy's Rem 7400 in 30/06. This 7400 had never been cleaned and the muzzle's bore looked as if it was gold coated. I put a cork in the muzzle and filled the barrel completely full of Free All. 8 Months later, I pulled the cork, and a blueish slurry poured out of the bore. The Free All had gone down beneath the layers of carbon and Copper and had free'd up the fouling, but some still remains. I need to brush it now.
Ccrider
Gold $$ Contributor
I ditched Kroil for Free All about ten years ago. Let the naysayers stay in the dark.Ditch the kroil, purchase Free All with the spray attachment on the can, 14 oz. Free All has a chemical that will actually dissolve carbon, but it takes time.
Free All will shock the heck out of you on getting old rusted bolts off a front ends, or rusted on bolts on a tractor/horse trailer.
Free All® Deep Penetrating Oil
Use the arrow and drop down to the 14 oz pump sprayer
Very inexpensive postage from the company.
Free All works to work through the carbon, and the carbon is in layers. Nothing beats a high quality bronze bristle brush, with a max of 100 strokes on it, 60 strokes does a better job.
If carbon persists, then to to an Iosso or Montana extreme plastic brush, brush with one of several products, JB, Montana Extreme Copper Cream, or Flitz rifle bore cleaner.
Different calibers, different powders, shot strings, Barrel quality, barrel erosion, frequency in-between cleanings, will all demand a very different approach in each.
The approach of one method fixes all is very incorrect thinking. A bore scope will give you a PHD in gun cleaning, but ignorance is Bliss....till it is not.
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