JGS Adjustable Reamer Stop

[DaveTooley]

Here's my setup on my Clausing. Simple pusher setup.

 

[LVLAaron]

... I've thought about just decking a flat spot on the top of my tailstock... would be a lot easier.

 

[butchlambert]

Dave, the problem on my 6913 Clausing was the plate on my tailstock has to be very thin to enable me to eject the tools.

 

[VA_XTC_Shooter]

... I've thought about just decking a flat spot on the top of my tailstock... would be a lot easier.

I'm in the same boat.

 

[tac284]

I would say on average you can pick up a Mitutoyo scale for $125 on Ebay, if you’re patient. A little aluminum and a few hours….

 

[LVLAaron]

That's a lovely flat spot you have there

 

[DaveTooley]

Dave, the problem on my 6913 Clausing was the plate on my tailstock has to be very thin to enable me to eject the tools.

Make a spacer to fit inside the quill to shorten up the distance.

 

[butchlambert]

Make a spacer to fit inside the quill to shorten up the distance.

Pull the spindle out and do it from the ass end?

 

[DaveTooley]

Pull the spindle out and do it from the ass end?

No make a spacer that goes inside the spindle before your tooling. I had to do that on the Haas to get my 4" rotating chuck to eject. MT3 taper with an adapter sleeve was too short in a MT4 spindle.

 

[butchlambert]

No make a spacer that goes inside the spindle before your tooling. I had to do that on the Haas to get my 4" rotating chuck to eject. MT3 taper with an adapter sleeve was too short in a MT4 spindle.

I guess I need to remove the spindle and look at it.
Thanks

 

[DaveTooley]

Mine was a ring because I had to push against the MT adaptor not the shank on the chuck.

 

[TylerFromMS]

@LVLAaron https://www.ebay.com/itm/3543820369...KlRZmn-TfC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I got dials on tail stock, reamer stop, DRO, and this. The more idiot proof I can make my setup the better.

 

[boltfluter]

Here's my setup on my Clausing. Simple pusher setup.

View attachment 1517825

Exactly what I do on my lathe. For some reason, using a dial indicator compared to a digital caliper leads to way fewer mistakes on my part. Not sure what it is, maybe just watching a needle move all these years. Here's to "no mistakes" on the last cut!
Paul

 

[DaveTooley]

Exactly what I do on my lathe. For some reason, using a dial indicator compared to a digital caliper leads to way fewer mistakes on my part. Not sure what it is, maybe just watching a needle move all these years. Here's to "no mistakes" on the last cut!
Paul

Our mind can see the needle move in a few tenth increments giving the opportunity to anticipate what's coming but looking at absolute numbers we can't anticipate the stop number approaching in those increments. Same on the Haas if I'm using the jog function say to take a few thou off a shoulder. There is a delay between the number showing up and my mind processing it. Many times I over shoot a few thou. No big deal going back some but the chance of it happening is always there.

 

[boltfluter]

Our mind can see the needle move in a few tenth increments giving the opportunity to anticipate what's coming but looking at absolute numbers we can't anticipate the stop number approaching in those increments. Same on the Haas if I'm using the jog function say to take a few thou off a shoulder. There is a delay between the number showing up and my mind processing it. Many times I over shoot a few thou. No big deal going back some but the chance of it happening is always there.

Dave,
Right you are! Very hard to split up in tenths on a digital! Lol!
Paul

 

[X Count]

Other way to do it would be to set a zero on your carriage DRO. Using the the carriage as a stop run your tailstock in to X depth and set it to zero. Pull / wind tailstock back, check chamber depth and move carriage forward required amount. Run tailstock back into it's zero position and in theory you'd be good to go. No DRO require on tailstock.

 

[LVLAaron]

My tailstock would "bump" against the DRO hardware on my carriage. Is that repeatable to half a thou? I like to cut my chambers so they end up HS + .001 after barrel torque.

I do like the idea of a high resolution dial vs digital on the tailstock. I'll think about how to add a dial to my tailstock. I love the reamer stop, but I'm doing enough work that I'd prefer to not use one.

 

[xr650rRider]

My tailstock would "bump" against the DRO hardware on my carriage. Is that repeatable to half a thou? I like to cut my chambers so they end up HS + .001 after barrel torque.

I do like the idea of a high resolution dial vs digital on the tailstock. I'll think about how to add a dial to my tailstock. I love the reamer stop, but I'm doing enough work that I'd prefer to not use one.

You drill and tap your carriage, on the left side of your dro mount and put a stop bolt that protrudes just slightly more than your DRO cover. Now you have a positive stop for your tailstock to engage.

 

[paperpuncher]

You drill and tap your carriage, on the left side of your dro mount and put a stop bolt that protrudes just slightly more than your DRO cover. Now you have a positive stop for your tailstock to engage.

I Put some stops on my tailstock base that will bump against the carriage. It spaces the tailstock so it cant hit the scale or reader head on the carriage.

 

[critter68]

anyone hear a price for the JGS stop?