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Jewell trigger issue

I am going to start dabbling into some compeditive shooting again after an extended layoff. Going to shoot the ND State LR match in a couple of weeks. Going to let my Jr PETA memeber shoot my Dasher and I am going to shoot one of my 300 WBY tubes.

Anyway, a while back I noticed that sometimes, when I close the bolt on a round, the firing pin would un-cock as I closed the bolt. Usually I would simply raise and lower the bolt to get it to cock. When I was getting stuff ready a couple weeks ago I flushed out the trigger asy really good with break cleaner. That did not help. I litterally had to jiggle the trigger in eleventeen different directions before I closed the bolt in order for it to cock. If I didn't jiggle it, it would not cock. So, yesterday I took the gun apart again, flushed the trigger again, and proceded to adjust the trigger according to Jewels instructions. ZERO HELP!! Still had to jiggle the trigger before closing the bolt.

Now, unless someone has any ideas, I am going to order a new trigger in the morning. I would LOVE to try a new BIX N ANDY, but....$495.00 vs $215.00 for the proper Jewel....for a gun that may not get shot much anymore except for hunting and shooting steel.


Anyone?????
 
Id bet you need to disassemble it and hand clean the gunk out. Plenty of instructions on the net. Its simple just remove the side that has the clips and not the side with the hole for the sear stop. Take pictures and take it apart over a bowl after you eat your salad. Only spring you need to watch is under the trigger shoe and its not gonna fly away.
 
Have you ever blanked/pierced a primer with that trigger? Could be the sear broke underneath the top piece and when you "jiggle" it the 2 pieces align again???? Also is sear engagement sufficient? Did you replace the original spring with a lighter one? Just a couple things to look into and my worthless .02 cents worth.

Respectfully,
Dennis
 
Soak it in mineral spirits for a while (20+ minutes) and then flush it out with break thinner.

Break thinner will flush away liquids, but it will not desolve dried up gunk and bore cleaner.
 
do as Dusty said and you'll probably be good. All tell ya those Bixn Andy triggers are darm nice for sure all buy more of them.
 
A Jewel is not even remotely in the same ballpark as the Bix n Andy! For the application the original poster intends to do, a clean, dirt free Jewel is the way to go. Yes, the BnA is pricey, but once you touch one, you forget about the $$$$
 
Soak your trigger in acetone for a few hours. then blow it out with compressed air gently. then use napha lighter fluid flush reinstall should be ok if not repeat.
 
Well, I screwed around with the trigger last night. I never did get the thing apart....I took the little clips apart and took the safety lever off, but nothing "came appart". it looks like I should have/could have removed the little screws on that side to get things apart. I didn't. What I did do was soak the whole assembly in Mag One carb cleaner for a couple of hours. I "swooshed" (that is an industry term) it around every 15 min to try and rince out the krap. There was a fair amount of krap in the liquid after i was done, so something came out . It seemed to be working after I put it back together, which is a small miricle in it self!!!! Also, after 7 years the safety works again!!!

Was I suppose to remove the small screws on that side (along with the pins and safety lever) and try and take the side of the trigger compleatly off?? Like I said...it was LATE last night when I started the process, so my confidence level was a little low!!!
 
It doesn't take much of a foreign object inside the trigger to make it do that. I've had powder kernels from pulling a bullet with the bolt and spilling powder in the action do it more than once. A single kernel is all it takes. Usually I can blow them out with compressed air and all is good, but once I had to disassemble the trigger. Sure enough, it was a smashed powder kernel that was wedged in the trigger mechanism.

It's not that tough to take them apart and re-assemble them, but you need to be careful to get the parts and springs back in the right places. There should have been a diagram on the instruction sheet you got with the trigger.
 
I took one apart a couple of weeks ago. It was a piece of cake. The hardest part is removing the small screws. You will need the right screwdriver and probably have to tap the screwdriver with a small hammer to loosen the screws. At least I did. If you don't have a diagram just make a photo when you remove the side plate. If I did it anyone can. Good luck
 
Cannot remember if it is a #0 or #1 Phillips screwdriver it takes, darn small I know.lol Not a job if you have Parkinson's like my poor Uncle who I love so dearly and sure doesn't deserve it and all else he has, including losing 2 daughters.
 
Had that problem. My trigger side plates were too tight and when I disassembled it and lapped the side plates on my surface plate, the problem went away.
 
as Butch just said on the side plates. Very new Jewell that I get Idisassemble it and lap the plates on a lapping block. The bixn Andy triggers are sealed up better so you don't get the crud in them
 
A jewell i spend a few hours working on out of the pkg is a beautiful thing. A bix'n andy right out of the pkg is even better. And chris at bullet central is the best dude to deal with. Im just glad i can work on the jewells or i woulda quit them years ago due to customer service.
 
Another dumb question. I have my 1K heavy gun (BAT L, RBLPRE, no safety) sitting on the shelf with a Jewell trigger. That trigger should work on any of my other BAT actions, correct? I figured I would bring it along as a spare.
 
Yes. Just remove the entire hanger and carry it with you. I keep my spares in an old trigger ziploc bag. If its a hanger with numbers on either one you should probably install it the same orientation
 
I had the same problem with one a while back. You need to be gentle getting it into the receiver, if the side plates bind, at all, it puts pressure on the plate on the top that holds the pin and you get what you are seeing. In the end all I had to do was take mine out and put it back in w/o binding it and it has worked ever since.
 
Well, went out tonight to shoot some groups with the tuner installed for the upcoming "F" class matches.. Encountered three problems.

1) Trigger still not working. Going to take the trigger off of my HG and install it.

2) When testing my Tuner, the FIRST shot launched it 85 yards down range. Back to the drawing board. Time for some JB Weld for a temp fix. Hope that works with a 300 WBY!!!

3) My Nightforce scope is giving me issues. Going to strip it off and install the one off of my HG.

4) My HG is now threatening to leave me!!!

Ok..that is four!!
 
4xforfun said:
Well, went out tonight to shoot some groups with the tuner installed for the upcoming "F" class matches.. Encountered three problems.

1) Trigger still not working. Going to take the trigger off of my HG and install it.

2) When testing my Tuner, the FIRST shot launched it 85 yards down range. Back to the drawing board. Time for some JB Weld for a temp fix. Hope that works with a 300 WBY!!!

3) My Nightforce scope is giving me issues. Going to strip it off and install the one off of my HG.

4) My HG is now threatening to leave me!!!

Ok..that is four!!

Surely your tuner is attached by threads.
 

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