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Inletting help needed!

Trying to decide the best way to Inlet a stock blank for a BR quality fit.

My though was; The OD of my action(single Shot) is going to be 1.350" OD, so, if I were to use a 1.500" Ball end mill, and simply cut the radius centered in the stock, and to the correct depth, then mill out the trigger slot and mounting holes, then the other small work, this would give me a consistent thickness of bedding material all the way around the bottom of the action.

Would this be Better or Worse than doing a traditional "Pocket" inlet job?
 
That would depend on if you already had the 1-1/2" ball endmill. If you have to purchase an endmill, and ball endmills of that size are not cheap, I would go with a smaller size such as 1.125" and use it for the barrel channel also. You can cut the bigger radius for the action in several passes and depths. It may not be perfect, but you are going to bed that section anyway.
I use a 1.312" for the receiver section and have a selection of 1.250", 1.125", 1" and .875" for barrel channels.
You can make smaller cutters cut bigger but not vise versa.
 
You would be better served with a 1.500 box cutter bit with a 1/2 inch shank, than with a ball mill, most actions run about 1.350 so you'll have .150 total to play with...
If thats seems a bit much, just use a 1.250 and keep adjusting the cut till you have it exactly where you want it...
 
As Preacher says, core box carbide router bits. They are a lot cheaper than ball end mills and will last a lot longer.
Butch
 
I also use router bits but use them in my (woodworking) shaper with the stock turned upside down. This was my latest purchase for a barrel channel. The Freud cutters are not the cheapest but have an inclined cutting edge that produces less tearout and an overall cleaner cut. It also tends to pull the work down against the shaper table.

For stocks with a tapered forearm, an easily constructed U-shaped guide allows the shaper fence to produce a straight cut.

I have heard that you can also use a vertical mill but that would be too easy. ;)
 
sleepygator said:
I also use router bits but use them in my (woodworking) shaper with the stock turned upside down. This was my latest purchase for a barrel channel. The Freud cutters are not the cheapest but have an inclined cutting edge that produces less tearout and an overall cleaner cut. It also tends to pull the work down against the shaper table.

For stocks with a tapered forearm, an easily constructed U-shaped guide allows the shaper fence to produce a straight cut.

I have heard that you can also use a vertical mill but that would be too easy. ;)

I've done the exact same thing with success.

DSCN1003.jpg
 
I have a couple of stocks that have the exterior shapes roughed out but with no inletting. Routing out a barrel channel is easy when you have a flat sided stock blank but trying to hold profiled stock in a regular milling vise is not the answer. I was thinking about building a some type of carriage or jig system to hold the stock on my milling table. Something that would grip the stock at the butt as well as at the tip of the forearm. The grip or hold down system I was thinking could be similar to what a stock duplicator uses. I saw picture of something a year or so ago but does any one have any suggestions or pictures of what they use? thanks.
 
Whenever I need to inlet a stock that has been turned with my mill I make up a set of blocks to hold the stock in place. I just get the profile close and then glas bed the blocks to the stock with release agent. Never had one move yet..
 
Preacher good thought, thanks. Are your blocks mounted at the fore end and at the butt and attached to your milling table with clamps or are they mounted in the action area action area and then clamped into your milling vice?
 
Call Lewis Blackburn at Blackburn Machine and Grinding 336-921-7028. He can grind any cutter you desire and the price is very reasonable. He made me a carbide cutter a couple of days ago 1.560 for Bat Model M inletted into Mcmillan stock. Cut like it was in butter.
 
Grizzly has 1.5" round nose 1/2" shank carbide cutters. Made for wood, have cut aluminum, even steel with mine. Still very sharp, to this day.
 

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