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Inletting Insanity

Update: Didn't get it inletted, but now I have a plan. Turns out the 1.5" barrel channel wasn't such a bad idea, as this rifle will be used for NBRSA and it's 22.5lb light gun class limit. To that end I have a 1.35" straight 6mm barrel that I had originally chambered for a BAT M. I have cut off that chamber and this week I will chamber it to fit the BAT B.

I will fill in the barrel channel a little for good clearance with the 1.35" barrel. This stock and action will serve double duty with my HV contour barrel as a 17lb IBS light gun, at least until the aluminum Nuevos are finished.

I will be using Marine-Tex, which i have used before. My only issue is now I really need to lift the barreled action up off the pillars about .100", which is how much too far I re-inlet the stock. After seeing a pic of what Speedy does, and given the Marine-Tex really doesn't shrink, I think i can just be over the pillars.

Thoughts?
You can lift the action to where it needs to be and do what i call a locator bed where i put a dab at a few spots to orient the action and check it all out or get it painted or whatever. And having a huge barrel channel isnt always a bad thing
 
My only issue is now I really need to lift the barreled action up off the pillars about .100", which is how much too far I re-inlet the stock. After seeing a pic of what Speedy does, and given the Marine-Tex really doesn't shrink, I think i can just be over the pillars.

Thoughts?
You never want the action to be in hard contact with the pillars, anyway. Regardless of the compound used, avoid having a 'skim' of bedding over pillar tops. Ditto for any sort of bedding block.

.050 is my normal and I'll go thicker. If anything, it's actually a bit better for stability and longevity. There's a second part to 'over bedding' pillars that most don't consider when just putting compound over the pillar tops. Whenever possible, I reduce the pillar top O.D. and extend that reduced O.D. down .250 or so. The compound flows into the space around the pillar top and locks on to the pillar. This gives the compound above the pillar more stability. On a normal .625 dia. pillar, the top diameter is .500. On a .750 pillar, the top diameter is .625.

The bedding compound used matters more than a little. ;) Despite what mfgs. technical sheets say, all two part epoxies exhibit shrinkage. If you dig a bit deeper into how the mfgs calculate their shrinkage numbers, you can see why the shrinkage number alone may or may not have much meaning when it comes to bedding rifles.

Good shootin' -Al
 
You never want the action to be in hard contact with the pillars, anyway. Regardless of the compound used, avoid having a 'skim' of bedding over pillar tops. Ditto for any sort of bedding block.

.050 is my normal and I'll go thicker. If anything, it's actually a bit better for stability and longevity. There's a second part to 'over bedding' pillars that most don't consider when just putting compound over the pillar tops. Whenever possible, I reduce the pillar top O.D. and extend that reduced O.D. down .250 or so. The compound flows into the space around the pillar top and locks on to the pillar. This gives the compound above the pillar more stability. On a normal .625 dia. pillar, the top diameter is .500. On a .750 pillar, the top diameter is .625.

The bedding compound used matters more than a little. ;) Despite what mfgs. technical sheets say, all two part epoxies exhibit shrinkage. If you dig a bit deeper into how the mfgs calculate their shrinkage numbers, you can see why the shrinkage number alone may or may not have much meaning when it comes to bedding rifles.

Good shootin' -Al

Speedy had a test done that the bulletin talks about. Marine-Tex shrimp .1% while all the others shrunk 3-6%, so it seems like the best choice. Like most here I have used a half dozen bedding compounds over the years, but I have never bedded over the pillars.

I like the idea of the reduced diameter at the top of the pillar.

 
Blaine now all you need to do is paint it.
Once done you won't be able to see thickness of bedding, gaps in barrel channel and such especially when you switch barrels to HV.
 
Close to having it finished. I am going to do a little more MarineTex work in the barrel channel and I need to add 1.5 lbs to the butt. I also have a little more cosmetic sanding and clean up to do.

View attachment 1403480
Looking good my friend!
What’s your plan for adding weight ? I’m a little light myself..
 
I had all my box cutters custom made by a tool maker mate of mine . So can cut any side barrel channel I need and quite often there always over size. He makes all my custom cutters what ever I need. He's even starting on making reamers will see how they go soon enough.
 
Speedy had a test done that the bulletin talks about. Marine-Tex shrimp .1% while all the others shrunk 3-6%, so it seems like the best choice. Like most here I have used a half dozen bedding compounds over the years, but I have never bedded over the pillars.

I like the idea of the reduced diameter at the top of the pillar.


Devcon Plastic Steel Putty datasheet has shrinkage of .0006 cm/cm or .000236 in/in. I use Marine-Tex and Devcon and they are way too similiar to have that much shrinkage variation. Something in the testing was definitely flawed if they saw 3-6%.
 
For filling in barrel channels, I use long lengths of large diameter heat shrink tubing on the barrel. You can add as many as you like to get the clearance you want. It gives a very nice result.

Good shootin' 'Al

Clever. I like that. Would give a perfect fit, for sure!
 
This one is just out of the bedding....still need to do the final clean up, a bit of mill work, chamfer the action screw holes, etc.

evUdZn6l.jpg


When I got it initially, it showed .012-.015 of barrel movement when the front action screw was cracked loose. Everything looked pretty good, so on went the Sherlock Holmes hat. The culprit ended up being the bottom of the recoil lug not being flat. After I milled that flat, the inletting got lowered so a consistent thickness of bedding was under the entire action and over the pillars.

HoP6Mu9l.jpg


For what it's worth.... -Al
 
Devcon Plastic Steel Putty datasheet has shrinkage of .0006 cm/cm or .000236 in/in. I use Marine-Tex and Devcon and they are way too similiar to have that much shrinkage variation. Something in the testing was definitely flawed if they saw 3-6%.
I agree. Any of the common expoxies work fine. When I bed a square action it has to be worked out of the stock carefully. If the Devcon shrunk less you wouldnt be able to get it out. Actually stopped using marine tex because it would shrink and suck down below the stock line. Not every batch but I had to redo enough I went back to devcon and have never had that issue. And I HATE cutting devcon.
 
Finished the clean up today.

Indicator zeroed with action screws tight:
LNte8Nnl.jpg


Front action screw cracked loose:
iT1YhaHl.jpg


Action falls out of the stock...no tuggin' needed. The amount of movement doesn't change with action screw tighness. I didn't get that 3rd hand for Christmas this year so the pics aren't the greatest. ;)

Good shootin' -Al
 
This one is just out of the bedding....still need to do the final clean up, a bit of mill work, chamfer the action screw holes, etc.

evUdZn6l.jpg


When I got it initially, it showed .012-.015 of barrel movement when the front action screw was cracked loose. Everything looked pretty good, so on went the Sherlock Holmes hat. The culprit ended up being the bottom of the recoil lug not being flat. After I milled that flat, the inletting got lowered so a consistent thickness of bedding was under the entire action and over the pillars.

HoP6Mu9l.jpg


For what it's worth.... -Al
Looks good, I would like the thoughts on the bedding in front of the lug, I see that some do and others do not add this support under the barrel.
 
Looks good, I would like the thoughts on the bedding in front of the lug, I see that some do and others do not add this support under the barrel.
Other than extremely light barrelled rifles, I don't do any bedding under the barrel shank.

The tab of bedding there is what pushed forward out of the recoil lug mortise. Normally, I tape the barrel channel there and just snap the tab off after it's cured. On this stock, I didn't get the warm fuzzies from the way the cutter acted or sounded when I did the pillar holes. So, I left the 'tab' bonded to the stock. There's .020 clearance between the 'tab' and the barrel.

Others may do it differently. -Al
 

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