Inletting a flat top....

[LVLAaron]

I always clamp the section im working on. If its the barrel channel ill put it in the vise halfway down the channel then use machinist jacks and clamps just to keep the back end from free-balling (no need to be tight). When working the action area just sit the action down flat, take 2 pieces of thin plywood and stand them up next to the stock. Visualize what itll take to hold those 2 pieces parallel so you can put it in the vise. Sometimes its shims, sometimes its bondo and saran wrap to make a molded clamp. Sometimes you just gotta lay it on a table and imagine for a few days.

OK. I'm not crazy. All of that is helpful to hear. If I make some soft jaws that are an inch shorter, I think I can make things work. I like this bondo idea as well.

 

[Olde Man]

My prefered way to bed an action is to put a 4 or 5 pcs of tape between the pillars and action and then bed. Remove some bedding and then skim bed for the final. Now comes the rub. If you bed without the barrel your bedding should match your action. When you screw the barrel on it is suported by the action and it should have a hump between the action screws or a least stress trying to create this hump. If you let the action support the barrel the bedding should fill this area between the screws. My question is do you bed with the action in its barrel loaded stressed condition by or support the barrel in the channel and let the action float in a relaxed position. This is not a question about locating the action.

 

[GenePoole]

My prefered way to bed an action is to put a 4 or 5 pcs of tape between the pillars and action and then bed. Remove some bedding and then skim bed for the final. Now comes the rub. If you bed without the barrel your bedding should match your action. When you screw the barrel on it is suported by the action and it should have a hump between the action screws or a least stress trying to create this hump. If you let the action support the barrel the bedding should fill this area between the screws. My question is do you bed with the action in its barrel loaded stressed condition by or support the barrel in the channel and let the action float in a relaxed position. This is not a question about locating the action.

I do it in two steps. First, epoxy in the pillars with the action and barrel shimmed to the proper placement. I use regular shim stock under the action and to shim the barrel, just wrap masking tape in a couple of places along the channel until it is where you want it. Then when you do the final bedding, there is no stress anywhere.

 

[Edd]

Why can't you take three appropriately sized boards and build a box that is flat on the bottom and both sides, similar to this mitre box https://www.amazon.com/Topex-Wooden-mitre-box/dp/B00LABIP5U ?

Then, tape up that stock and epoxy bed it into your box.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Why can't you take three appropriately sized boards and build a box that is flat on the bottom and both sides, similar to this mitre box https://www.amazon.com/Topex-Wooden-mitre-box/dp/B00LABIP5U ?

Then, tape up that stock and epoxy bed it into your box.

Thats what i was talking about but with cheap plywood and bondo. Works great

 

[Twdmar]

Why can't you take three appropriately sized boards and build a box that is flat on the bottom and both sides, similar to this mitre box https://www.amazon.com/Topex-Wooden-mitre-box/dp/B00LABIP5U ?

Then, tape up that stock and epoxy bed it into your box.

I think you could, if I am understanding what you're saying. I.e. it becomes sort of like vise without movable jaws.

 

[LVLAaron]

That was one of my thoughts last night as I sat out there and stared at it. Some freezer bags of bondo and some type of "chassis" like that.

My only concern is keeping the stock aligned on the X axis with something like that.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

That was one of my thoughts last night as I sat out there and stared at it. Some freezer bags of bondo and some type of "chassis" like that.

My only concern is keeping the stock aligned on the X axis with something like that.

Adjust your vise for each setup. Dont concern yourself too much with it just let it go where it wants then cut to there

 

[LVLAaron]

Yeah... I suppose I can find center on both ends of the stock and doodle a line between both ends.. and use that to indicate back and forth on.

My mind keeps thinking if this thing is out a thou across the whole length it's going to explode and fall over when I fire it.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

My mind keeps thinking if this thing is out a thou across the whole length it's going to explode and fall over when I fire it.

It might.

I indicate between the rear action screw and the middle of the barrel channel. If you do the barrel channel first just indicate off that edge. My 2 most important spots are the very end of the barrel channel and the rear action screw since both of those are what needs to be right

 

[LVLAaron]

Lucky you, knowing where your rear action screw is

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Lucky you, knowing where your rear action screw is

You better find it. Thats the point the whole stock starts from. Inlet the trigger guard first so its not too far back in the grip or too far forward

 

[LVLAaron]

Was just joking. I can find it.

 

[INTJ]

Yeah... I suppose I can find center on both ends of the stock and doodle a line between both ends.. and use that to indicate back and forth on.

My mind keeps thinking if this thing is out a thou across the whole length it's going to explode and fall over when I fire it.

The stock I posted about earlier in this thread. The one that shot three 1000 yd 10-shot screamer groups in the three match weekends I shot it....

I used a machinist rule and a pencil to mark centerline. Then I pivoted the vise until a center punch tracked straight down that line. I used soft jaws in my 4" vise in my PM 833T.

I used a Starrett machinist level to get it level longitudinally as well as laterally. You can do the same with yours. I was also able to get the whole barrel channel cut in my 833T. When I discovered I was getting deflection at the fore end I used a small jack as shown in the pic.

I have since learned there are better ways to find center. Even so, as imperfect and ignorant as my setup was, that stock tracked true and shot small.

All this leads me to believe that perhaps the initial inletting isn't as critical as we think when we are just starting out.....

 

[LVLAaron]

Does anyone else have that crippling thing where you can't do anything until you do the thing that's got your mind in a twist? Or is that just me?

Mill can't quite reach those last few inches but I can work those by hand and taper it to fit the end of the barrel nicely.

 

[LVLAaron]

If anyone would like me to inlet a stock for them, the cost is 1,000 dollars payable in cash.

 

[LVLAaron]

"Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel Epoxy Putty" is the good stuff, right?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

View attachment 1387979View attachment 1387978

If anyone would like me to inlet a stock for them, the cost is 1,000 dollars payable in cash.

My local guy will do it for $50

 

[Dusty Stevens]

"Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel Epoxy Putty" is the good stuff, right?

Yes

 

[Dusty Stevens]

View attachment 1387979View attachment 1387978

If anyone would like me to inlet a stock for them, the cost is 1,000 dollars payable in cash.

Now you the man! Good job